|
climberyogi
May 1, 2012, 3:02 AM
Post #1 of 16
(12646 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 1, 2012
Posts: 19
|
Hey there! I'm super psyched to try climbing at Red Rocks since watching that film Western Gold (if you don't know what I'm talking about check out the trailer here: http://vimeo.com/39651458 or download here: http://savagefilms.net/store/ )
I'm more of a moderate boulderer though, so I'm wondering about V3-V6 climbs (that aren't crazy highballs like the guys in this film do). Any suggestions?
Also - what time of year is best? Winter?
Thanks!!!
|
|
|
|
|
tradmanclimbs
May 1, 2012, 12:04 PM
Post #2 of 16
(12610 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 24, 2003
Posts: 2599
|
learn to climb trad and sport and you will be able to go up on all of those absolutly beautifull big walls and towers that Red Rocks is blessed with..
|
|
|
|
|
Dip
May 1, 2012, 12:17 PM
Post #3 of 16
(12605 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 16, 2009
Posts: 270
|
climberyogi wrote: Hey there! I'm super psyched to try climbing at Red Rocks since watching that film Western Gold (if you don't know what I'm talking about check out the trailer here: http://vimeo.com/39651458 or download here: http://savagefilms.net/store/ ) I'm more of a moderate boulderer though, so I'm wondering about V3-V6 climbs (that aren't crazy highballs like the guys in this film do). Any suggestions? Also - what time of year is best? Winter? Thanks!!!
There are otheres who can comment further on this, but if you're looking for a concentration of boulder problems in that specified range, as well as easier and harder, check out the Kraft boulders. Short approach, beautiful scenery, good bouldering. People seem to be going to Red Rock more and more just to boulder, so feel free to ignore the folks telling you to learn to trad climb, you won't be alone.
While you can climb there year round, you'll do best to avoid the hottest and coldest months of the year, especially if you only have a limited amount of days to devote to climbing. Shoot for October/November or March/April for optimal weather, and even then be prepared for whatever mother nature throws at you.
|
|
|
|
|
tradmanclimbs
May 1, 2012, 12:24 PM
Post #4 of 16
(12602 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 24, 2003
Posts: 2599
|
I once took a pebble pincher up Hessitation and Overture on Washbowl cliff in the Daks just a few days before his big bouldering trip to Europe. He was like. OMG you have ruined me. Now I am going to be looking up at all those big cliffs and wishing I was up there looking down instead of down here looking up
|
|
|
|
|
climberyogi
May 1, 2012, 1:31 PM
Post #6 of 16
(12582 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 1, 2012
Posts: 19
|
Thanks so much Dip! My impression was that red rocks was more of a trad place - its good to hear that there is a lot of good bouldering at Kraft.
BTW - I did some searching and found a few guidebooks online... do you know which would be the best bet?
|
|
|
|
|
Dip
May 1, 2012, 1:33 PM
Post #7 of 16
(12580 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 16, 2009
Posts: 270
|
climberyogi wrote: Thanks so much Dip! My impression was that red rocks was more of a trad place - its good to hear that there is a lot of good bouldering at Kraft. BTW - I did some searching and found a few guidebooks online... do you know which would be the best bet?
There's a Southern Nevada bouldering guide out, forget who wrote it, but it's super rad. Full color, big pictures, tons of info on everything from the geology to the history of human habitation in the area. Get that one.
Edit to add link to guidebook: http://www.snellpress.com/snb/index.html
(This post was edited by Dip on May 1, 2012, 1:35 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
craglady
May 5, 2012, 3:19 PM
Post #8 of 16
(12513 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 9, 2009
Posts: 5
|
Hi - could you give me a better idea of the volume of sport routes in RR between high 9s and mid 10s and whether you think the grading is more akin to old school western grades or the the more contemporary softer grading found in the midwest and parts of WV, NC? Basically my question is will I get there and need bail gear - haha. For a variety of reasons, we will be climbing light -
|
|
|
|
|
divnamite
May 8, 2012, 5:02 PM
Post #9 of 16
(12429 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 20, 2007
Posts: 114
|
Can't speak for sports routes, but the grade at Red Rock is a lot softer than Gunks and Yosemite.
|
|
|
|
|
craglady
May 8, 2012, 5:10 PM
Post #10 of 16
(12422 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 9, 2009
Posts: 5
|
Perfect. Greatly appreciate the comment!
|
|
|
|
|
climbingaggie03
May 8, 2012, 5:37 PM
Post #11 of 16
(12404 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 18, 2004
Posts: 1173
|
There's tons of sport climbing in red rocks, Check out mountain project, or get a guide book. You'll probably like the black corridor.
|
|
|
|
|
csproul
May 8, 2012, 5:50 PM
Post #12 of 16
(12396 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 4, 2004
Posts: 1769
|
craglady wrote: Hi - could you give me a better idea of the volume of sport routes in RR between high 9s and mid 10s and whether you think the grading is more akin to old school western grades or the the more contemporary softer grading found in the midwest and parts of WV, NC? Basically my question is will I get there and need bail gear - haha. For a variety of reasons, we will be climbing light -
Where are these soft contemporary grades in NC that you speak of? I need to find me some of those!
|
|
|
|
|
coppertone
May 8, 2012, 6:12 PM
Post #13 of 16
(12385 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 29, 2005
Posts: 32
|
csproul wrote: craglady wrote: Hi - could you give me a better idea of the volume of sport routes in RR between high 9s and mid 10s and whether you think the grading is more akin to old school western grades or the the more contemporary softer grading found in the midwest and parts of WV, NC? Basically my question is will I get there and need bail gear - haha. For a variety of reasons, we will be climbing light - Seneca and many routes at the New in WV are also not soft. Grades are so subjective from crag to crag, route to route and also simply from differing types and styles of climbing. Just climb and have fun. Don't worry about the grades. Where are these soft contemporary grades in NC that you speak of? I need to find me some of those! |
|
|
|
|
csproul
May 8, 2012, 6:20 PM
Post #14 of 16
(12376 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 4, 2004
Posts: 1769
|
coppertone wrote: csproul wrote: craglady wrote: Hi - could you give me a better idea of the volume of sport routes in RR between high 9s and mid 10s and whether you think the grading is more akin to old school western grades or the the more contemporary softer grading found in the midwest and parts of WV, NC? Basically my question is will I get there and need bail gear - haha. For a variety of reasons, we will be climbing light - Seneca and many routes at the New in WV are also not soft. Grades are so subjective from crag to crag, route to route and also simply from differing types and styles of climbing. Just climb and have fun. Don't worry about the grades. Where are these soft contemporary grades in NC that you speak of? I need to find me some of those!
|
|
|
|
|
bigredscowboy
Mar 1, 2013, 2:01 AM
Post #15 of 16
(11282 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 30, 2007
Posts: 138
|
craglady wrote: you think the grading is more akin to old school western grades or the the more contemporary softer grading found in the midwest and parts of WV, NC?
I'm sorry, what?! There are 7+'s in NC that are harder than 10a's in the Black Corridor. Moore's and Seneca are notoriously harder than anything in Red Rocks per grade. Not to mention that Stone mountain (and some spots in Linville Gorge) are responsible for my signature quote
|
|
|
|
|
USnavy
Mar 1, 2013, 4:54 AM
Post #16 of 16
(11239 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 6, 2007
Posts: 2667
|
bigredscowboy wrote: craglady wrote: you think the grading is more akin to old school western grades or the the more contemporary softer grading found in the midwest and parts of WV, NC? I'm sorry, what?! There are 7+'s in NC that are harder than 10a's in the Black Corridor. Moore's and Seneca are notoriously harder than anything in Red Rocks per grade. Not to mention that Stone mountain (and some spots in Linville Gorge) are responsible for my signature quote
(This post was edited by USnavy on Mar 1, 2013, 4:55 AM)
|
|
|
|
|
|
