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DuaneLyons
May 16, 2012, 6:25 AM
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5 routes have been chopped at Sugarloaf in the past month. A reward of $2,500 is offered for the arrest and conviction of the vandals.
Any information given will be discrete. Some of the hangers were destroyed and left in the rock on routes that have been established for many years. The chopping of routes at Sugarloaf, Phantom Spires, Lover's Leap and the greater Tahoe area is not acceptable.
Any information will be greatly appreciated.
Please help protect what has already been established. These chopped routes will be re-bolted with added security measures. Chopping is not a solution or answer but is a crime and will be prosecuted to the fullest extent of the law.
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USnavy
May 16, 2012, 8:38 AM
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DuaneLyons wrote: 5 routes have been chopped at Sugarloaf in the past month. A reward of $2,500 is offered for the arrest and conviction of the vandals. Any information given will be discrete. Some of the hangers were destroyed and left in the rock on routes that have been established for many years. The chopping of routes at Sugarloaf, Phantom Spires, Lover's Leap and the greater Tahoe area is not acceptable. Any information will be greatly appreciated. Please help protect what has already been established. These chopped routes will be re-bolted with added security measures. Chopping is not a solution or answer but is a crime and will be prosecuted to the fullest extent of the law.
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DuaneLyons
May 16, 2012, 8:43 AM
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The 5 Routes that were chopped at Sugarloaf are: "Bulbosity" on Split Rock, "V-pie" on Split Rock, "Diversion" on Left Over Bun (west of Sugarbun), "Centipede Shuffle" adjacent to Sugarbun, and "Catapult" on Midway Rock.
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caughtinside
May 16, 2012, 3:15 PM
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I am curious... Arrest? For what? Convicted... of what?
I think you guys made a huge mistake by involving the Forest Service in this little squabble.
I'm also sorry to hear you guys think these low quality routes are worth a bolt at all costs scorched earth approach. None of this is going to end well for anyone.
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DuaneLyons
May 16, 2012, 3:23 PM
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It is obvious that you have not climbed any of these 5 routes and probably have no idea where they all are.
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caughtinside
May 16, 2012, 3:32 PM
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Hello Duane,
You are partially correct. I have not climbed any of those 5 routes because it's been my experience that the routes that have gone up on the peripheral sugarloaf rocks in the last few years are very low quality.
I did some Dental wall routes, looked at some of the west buttress routes, etc. Not remotely interesting.
I'm not saying you guys don't ever do good routes. That Lizard's Head route you did at Phantom looks really good.
I believe this photo shows one of the routes that got chopped... being soloed by a 4 year old:
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IsayAutumn
May 16, 2012, 4:26 PM
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caughtinside wrote: I believe this photo shows one of the routes that got chopped... being soloed by a 4 year old: [image]http://www.supertopo.com/photos/12/41/245591_31213_XL.jpg[/image]
ahahahahahhahahah!
boom.
respectfully pwnd.
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DuaneLyons
May 16, 2012, 4:41 PM
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West Buttress? None of the 5 routes that got chopped were located at the West Buttress.
I bet you have never climbed anything on the backside of Split Rock. There is still a 5.10c and 5.12 that are awesome. One of the routes that got chopped on that backside was a 5.11a and was excellent and totally hidden.
I would like to see the 4 year old solo the headwall or climb any part of that route without having 5.13 Petch push her up.
Before you judge, go climb the routes. There are easy routes and hard routes. There is something for everyone...
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caughtinside
May 16, 2012, 5:01 PM
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I've seen those routes on the backside of Split rock, I think I watched one of them going in a couple seasons ago.
If you guys have legitimately good routes (personally I find this unlikely) getting chopped then its probably personal. That said, I saw an email from JK posted somewhere that said he would shoot someone if he caught them. And you guys also went crying to the authorities about this silly shit.
I know a route got chopped out there like a year ago that had gear right next to bolts. And someone chopped a 4th class slab. As you observed, I haven't done these routes. But maybe these events should serve as a wake up call to you guys (I don't know who 'you guys' all are) about what kind of routes you're putting up. Please think twice before you do something silly like rebolt that 4th class slab or call the cops when some bolts go missing.
I'm all for sport climbing, i think it's great. But it isn't appropriate everywhere.
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healyje
May 16, 2012, 8:14 PM
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DuaneLyons wrote: Chopping is not a solution or answer but is a crime and will be prosecuted to the fullest extent of the law.
On exactly what basis? And, similarly, how is it that the bolting wasn't the real crime?
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sam_s
May 16, 2012, 11:48 PM
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caughtinside wrote: I've seen those routes on the backside of Split rock, I think I watched one of them going in a couple seasons ago. If you guys have legitimately good routes (personally I find this unlikely) getting chopped then its probably personal. That said, I saw an email from JK posted somewhere that said he would shoot someone if he caught them. And you guys also went crying to the authorities about this silly shit. I know a route got chopped out there like a year ago that had gear right next to bolts. And someone chopped a 4th class slab. As you observed, I haven't done these routes. But maybe these events should serve as a wake up call to you guys (I don't know who 'you guys' all are) about what kind of routes you're putting up. Please think twice before you do something silly like rebolt that 4th class slab or call the cops when some bolts go missing. I'm all for sport climbing, i think it's great. But it isn't appropriate everywhere.
Sounds like you are the bolt chopper !
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