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Inventor
Jun 3, 2012, 4:53 AM
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Registered: May 21, 2012
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Hello everyone,
This is my first post here, and its an exciting one! =D
So im planning to build a climbing wall (cave?) in my backyard this summer (in the next few days that is ;) ). Now since I've never built one before, I thought I would ask all you guys for any tips and recommendations you may have. What are some of your favourite feature(s)?, design mistakes to avoid, things you wish you did/didn't do if you have built your own wall, etc.
Here is a rough sketch of one of my designs for the cave:
http://www.mediafire.com/i/?is4xszus1iuurc4
It features:
- 12ft long overhang, 20º from vertical
- 8ft high vertical wall
- 10ft long overhang, ~70º from vertical
- back of the cave will also feature a vertical wall
- I will be adding a few volumes later on.
Would you add/change anything?
In case your wondering:
I will be using 2x6 PT wood for the framing members and 3/4" exterior grade plywood. The structure will sit on several 4x4 posts so the entire thing is level, and to prevent moisture retention. The whole thing will also be stained, and the 'outside' of the wall will be covered in a tarp.
Thanks!
- Inventor
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wrbill
Jun 3, 2012, 11:34 AM
Post #2 of 13
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Registered: Dec 5, 2002
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I would not cover with a tarp, just paint the whole thing inside and out. You can use automotive bando on the joints to fill in the gaps before painting.
I have some pics of a wall that I had back in the states. You can see them on my profile.
Goodluck with the wall.
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Inventor
Jun 4, 2012, 1:29 AM
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Hi wrbill, thanks for the reply.
What are the advantages of sealing the joints + painting the entire thing, as opposed to just staining the wood and putting a tarp over? I can prestain all pieces before assembly, if that would work just as effectively as bondo. I know sometimes the pickets of fences are stained before going on to better protect them.
That's a nice wall you have btw! (also nice mitre saw) I really like all the varying angles on your wall. Do you think I should add more features, as present in your wall. Or will the basic flat wall in my design suffice?
Thanks!
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guangzhou
Jun 4, 2012, 5:08 AM
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Your design seems strange to me. I think some of the wall will actually prevent you from fully climbing the other walls. (Fall zone space)
For home bouldering wall, simple is usually best. On first look, I would say you have to many angle for the space.
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wrbill
Jun 4, 2012, 1:07 PM
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guangzhou wrote: Your design seems strange to me. I think some of the wall will actually prevent you from fully climbing the other walls. (Fall zone space) For home bouldering wall, simple is usually best. On first look, I would say you have to many angle for the space.
Yes you are right about having to many angles for the space. I took the wall down and was going to build another, but i moved to the Philippines.
This was my first wall and I did like it and was able to climb all the walls or at least use all the walls. The areas that you talk about were not go for feet but you could use thoses areas for hand holds that would be off to the side of a route. You know what I'm talking about, you set routes all the time and have put up routes like that.
Not all climbing will give you hold that are in line with the route and you may use a hand or foot the is way off to the side. These are the routes that some people say have weird moves or put you off balance.
But I do agree that simply is best and you can always add volumes to change things up.
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wrbill
Jun 4, 2012, 1:17 PM
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The reason for not puting a tarp is that you are traping water between the tarp and the plywood. think about it, would you cover your roof with plywood then put a tarp over it, I think not. I no this is not a house, but why make it the way you are talking about and cause the ply to rot faster.
The reason for the bondo is to seal the end grain of the ply where it will soke in the most water and is the hardest part to seal. The bindo does a very good job and is paintable and can be sanded smooth.
Your right about fances but most fences are ceder and are very good for outside, not like plywood. You can still use the ply but I would paint and not stain, but that is me.
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Inventor
Jun 4, 2012, 11:37 PM
Post #7 of 13
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@guangzhou, Do you think it would be best to remove the 70 degree from vertical section? I have another 8ft from the 'open' side of the structure to build more, maybe I can put a lower ceiling there at a later date...
@wrbill, I'll stick with the flat surface then, and just add volumes to change things up as you suggested. Sealing the end grain with bondo makes alot of sense, I think ill do that too. But if I don't use a tarp, wouldn't that leave the t-nuts and bolts exposed though? The tarp would be over the 2x6's and not directly touching the plywood, only the 1.5" side of the 2x6's. Maybe I can paint the wall and add a tarp using small wooden extensions so its never in direct contact with the wood?
Looking around at paints, many people are suggesting to use earth tones, or many times I've seen walls just painted white. Do you have any favourite colour(s) that would work well?
Thanks for the advice!
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wrbill
Jun 5, 2012, 4:30 AM
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I understand your use of the tarp now. If you use the tarp I would put it on in a way that allows air to flow between the tarp and the ply so that you are not traping any moisture, just like theatic space of a house. The reason I say this is so your cave will last longer.
(This post was edited by wrbill on Jun 5, 2012, 4:53 AM)
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guangzhou
Jun 5, 2012, 11:19 AM
Post #9 of 13
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Personally, with a wall this size, I would have the entire wall at one angle, maybe a horizontal roof on top.
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Inventor
Jun 5, 2012, 11:33 PM
Post #11 of 13
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Registered: May 21, 2012
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@wrbill, Ya, ill make sure any tarp I put on will not be in contact with the plywood. Ill do anything to make it last as long as possible, especially with the weather where I live =P.
@guangzhou, with my current design, if I make the roof horizontal that will make it at 12' high. Is that a reasonable height for a roof? Or is that too high? Ill add some pictures of the design with and without a roof in my next post.
@synrock, thanks for the link, but would it be possible to ship that set to Canada? I noticed you had a set of jugs that could ship to Canada, but the shipping was ~%130 the cost of the holds =S.
Thanks,
Inventor
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Inventor
Jun 6, 2012, 12:04 AM
Post #12 of 13
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Registered: May 21, 2012
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So here is the design with a horizontal roof:
And without the roof:
And here are some other designs that I had made a few days ago...
Design 1:
Design 2:
Design 3:
Design 4:
With the above 4 designs, any time there is a roof, that roof is only 8' high. The taller walls are 12' in length.
Thoughts?
---------[EDIT]----------
I thought about the design some more, and I think I've finally come up with something that I really like! Also discovered how to add annotations to the designs in SolidWorks =).
Take a look!
http://www.mediafire.com/i/?zs1l1lvh57sbdzn
(This post was edited by Inventor on Jun 7, 2012, 1:42 PM)
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JG185
Aug 16, 2012, 12:43 AM
Post #13 of 13
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Registered: Aug 16, 2012
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Dude, that's pretty sweet! How much does something like this cost?
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