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Castle crags developement
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Tateshep


May 3, 2011, 1:08 PM
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Registered: May 3, 2011
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Castle crags developement  (North_America: United_States: California: Northern_California: Castle_Crags_State_Park)
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Im going to school in Montana, but i have a place near castle crags and have visited the area numerous times. I love how beautiful the area is and enjoy the climbing.
It seems however that there isnt very much information on the area and hardly much of a guidebook, and was wondering if there is just a really secretive climbing community in the area or if there just hasnt been much developement because of other reasons? Also what are the ethics for route establishment and the local rules about bolting? Would love to hear from the local community how they feel about people putting up routes, in montana not many people care because of the lack of good rock haha


doktor_g


Sep 2, 2011, 9:35 AM
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Registered: Oct 14, 2003
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Re: [Tateshep] Castle crags developement [In reply to]
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Tate,
Climbing in the Crags is ground up mainly. Rap bolting is considered a big no-no here. The crags is a forbiding area where everything is guarded by a long or difficult approach (or both). Rich history of bold climbers stretching back into the 40s. Drop in sometime. It's just a small community. Not secretive.

DrG


Tateshep


Sep 4, 2011, 11:11 AM
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Re: [doktor_g] Castle crags developement [In reply to]
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Cool thanks for the reply, im not in the area anymore. Ground up is sort of what i expected, good to hear i definitely have appreciation for that ethic. Maybe sometime this summer ill get a chance to explore a bit more.


ian


May 24, 2012, 1:47 PM
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Re: [Tateshep] Castle crags developement [In reply to]
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I disagree with the doc, as the leading developer in the Crags for the last decade, my opinion is that the ethic that has been established is 'to bolt'(period). The style you choose to do that in is entirely up to you. There are plenty of great ground up opportunities as well as top down, whatever suits your style, just be as low impact as possible and respect existing lines and projects of local climbers. Yes the crags are known for bold routes, mostly because the Crags in themselves are a bold destination and attract that type of route developer, but I would not discourage others and their creative ambitions due to 'my opinions' on style/ethics.


doktor_g


Jun 12, 2012, 10:19 AM
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Re: [ian] Castle crags developement [In reply to]
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Well said Ian. I definately agree. My bad. Looking forward to climbing with you again soon! Want to try your new routes and make a trip the gully.
Grover


wrbill


Jun 20, 2012, 9:00 AM
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Re: [doktor_g] Castle crags developement [In reply to]
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Wish I could join you. :(


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