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CrazyCarl
Jun 16, 2012, 10:43 AM
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Registered: May 25, 2012
Posts: 17
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Hey,
I'm fairly new to climbing and I've recently started a routine of climbing three times a week.
Now, about a month and a half ago I believe I sprained a muscle in my forearm. Now whenever I do crimps I experience a extreme shooting pain down the center rof my forearm.
I've been trying to climb every other day to give the arm some time to rest, but it doesn't seem to be getting any better. I know I should give it some more time to heal, but my concern is I don't want to lose my momentum; I'm trying to develop my strength so I can do v6s and v7s.
My questions are:
1. Any suggestions to help my arm heal faster?
2. How consistent do I need to be to retain my strength?(If I stop rock climbing for a month will I lose my strength and be back at doing v2s and v3s?)
(This post was edited by CrazyCarl on Jun 16, 2012, 10:44 AM)
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shockabuku
Jun 16, 2012, 2:20 PM
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Registered: May 20, 2006
Posts: 4868
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CrazyCarl wrote: Hey, I'm fairly new to climbing and I've recently started a routine of climbing three times a week. Now, about a month and a half ago I believe I sprained a muscle in my forearm. Now whenever I do crimps I experience a extreme shooting pain down the center rof my forearm. I've been trying to climb every other day to give the arm some time to rest, but it doesn't seem to be getting any better. I know I should give it some more time to heal, but my concern is I don't want to lose my momentum; I'm trying to develop my strength so I can do v6s and v7s. My questions are: 1. Any suggestions to help my arm heal faster? 2. How consistent do I need to be to retain my strength?(If I stop rock climbing for a month will I lose my strength and be back at doing v2s and v3s?)
Dave MacLeod states in his book 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes that one day a week will sustain. If you take a month off you will probably drop a grade or two but it comes back pretty quickly. You lose endurance faster than power.
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marc801
Jun 16, 2012, 5:27 PM
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Registered: Aug 1, 2005
Posts: 2806
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CrazyCarl wrote: Hey, I'm fairly new to climbing and I've recently started a routine of climbing three times a week.
Now, about a month and a half ago I believe I sprained a muscle in my forearm. Now whenever I do crimps I experience a extreme shooting pain down the center rof my forearm. I've been trying to climb every other day to give the arm some time to rest, but it doesn't seem to be getting any better. I know I should give it some more time to heal, but my concern is I don't want to lose my momentum; I'm trying to develop my strength so I can do v6s and v7s. My questions are: 1. Any suggestions to help my arm heal faster? 2. How consistent do I need to be to retain my strength?(If I stop rock climbing for a month will I lose my strength and be back at doing v2s and v3s?)
* You're climbing too hard, too frequently
* tendons and connections take far longer to get strong than muscles - IOW, you need time for the rest of your body to catch up to your muscle strength
* you're doing too many crimp problems
* you haven't been climbing long enough to know how to do hard boulder problems without hurting yourself
* take your foot off the gas pedal for a bit
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CrazyCarl
Jun 17, 2012, 5:42 AM
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Registered: May 25, 2012
Posts: 17
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Hows much longer would you say it takes for them to develop?(I heard once they take about three times longer, not sure how accurate that is though).
And do you have any idea what may be a good balance for training and muscle retention?(Climb once a week? Twice a week?)
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