Forums: Climbing Information: Accident and Incident Analysis:
simul-rappelling fatality,Alberta 7/29/12
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Accident and Incident Analysis

Premier Sponsor:

 


majid_sabet


Jul 29, 2012, 10:35 PM
Post #1 of 10 (10514 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 13, 2002
Posts: 8390

simul-rappelling fatality,Alberta 7/29/12
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

It's believed the pair fell about 20-25 metres before hitting the terrain, but fell about 100 metres total, said Brideaux.

from another report

It isn’t clear what precipiated the fall. Both the man and woman appeared to be outfitted with gear for roped-in climbing, Mr. Brideaux said, although it isn’t clear whether they were both on the cliff at once or whether one was on the ground belaying the other.


update:

They were rappelling together on a single rope,” Freer said. “It was a rappelling accident. They were coming down the mountain on an anchored rope. The rope was anchored up top.”

Read more: http://www.calgaryherald.com/life/rock+climbers+died+fall+cliff+were+Calgary+workers/7008920/story.html#ixzz229E9v3Br


http://www.calgarysun.com/...skis-climbing-mishap


nvestigators said they are piecing together the final moments of the two Calgary climbers.

Sidhu and his female climbing partner — whose name has not been released — had just completed a climb of 150 to 180 metres and were preparing to rappel back to the ground.

Using a technique that climbers call “simul-rappelling,” the pair were descending using a rope threaded through a single anchor, each climber acting as a counterweight to the other.

“One person managed to come off the rope during the rappel,” said Kananaskis public safety specialist Mike Koppang.

Read more: http://www.calgaryherald.com/health/Friends+family+mourn+loss+Calgary+athlete+Canmore+climbing+accident/7014040/story.html#ixzz22DryYAJX


(This post was edited by majid_sabet on Jul 31, 2012, 5:35 PM)


jp_sucks


Jul 30, 2012, 2:30 PM
Post #2 of 10 (10285 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 31, 2006
Posts: 240

Re: [majid_sabet] Double climbing fatality,Alberta 7/29/12 [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

This occured at Heart Creek area near Canmore (west of Calgary).

Two climberrs in their 20s, have not yet been identified by the RCMP.

Thoughts and prayers go out to their family....


wongpong


Jul 30, 2012, 3:00 PM
Post #3 of 10 (10258 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 18, 2010
Posts: 15

Re: [majid_sabet] Double climbing fatality,Alberta 7/29/12 [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I wonder if they were climbing a sport route or rappelling from the actual west side of heart. I think their is only one multi pitch route in hart this long (amphitheatre wall).

my hart goes to their families.


gblauer
Moderator

Jul 30, 2012, 4:24 PM
Post #4 of 10 (10168 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 4, 2002
Posts: 2824

Re: [wongpong] Double climbing fatality,Alberta 7/29/12 [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

My thoughts and prayers to loved ones.


majid_sabet


Jul 30, 2012, 5:29 PM
Post #5 of 10 (10112 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 13, 2002
Posts: 8390

Re: [wongpong] Double climbing fatality,Alberta 7/29/12 [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

wongpong wrote:
I wonder if they were climbing a sport route or rappelling from the actual west side of heart. I think their is only one multi pitch route in hart this long (amphitheatre wall).

my hart goes to their families.

what are the anchors in that area or rockfall?


wongpong


Jul 30, 2012, 5:42 PM
Post #6 of 10 (10097 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 18, 2010
Posts: 15

Re: [majid_sabet] Double climbing fatality,Alberta 7/29/12 [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Most Anchors in that location are bolts with rings and are stainless but i haven't climb on that specific wall. Rock fall could be possible in that area.


crasic


Aug 1, 2012, 7:40 AM
Post #7 of 10 (9670 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 26, 2012
Posts: 18

Re: [wongpong] Double climbing fatality,Alberta 7/29/12 [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Thanks for the edit majid

Does anyone know what caused the rap failure? Did one of them misrig their device or did they not even out the ends and rap off the end? The article says it was a 150-180 meter climb, meaning it was most likely a multiple rappel


majid_sabet


Aug 2, 2012, 7:26 PM
Post #8 of 10 (9362 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 13, 2002
Posts: 8390

Re: [crasic] Double climbing fatality,Alberta 7/29/12 [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

crasic wrote:
Thanks for the edit majid

Does anyone know what caused the rap failure? Did one of them misrig their device or did they not even out the ends and rap off the end? The article says it was a 150-180 meter climb, meaning it was most likely a multiple rappel


I ran in to something in supertopo pointing , may be one was rapping faster than other person or something in that line and if you are doing a simul rap then both people must rap next to one another. Ideally, you want a short sling attack between the two and both people must control the decent very carefully.

IMO, simul rap should be used as last option in a serious life or death situation where both climbers must rap multi pitches to bail out however, when you look at how much time you save vs risk involved, There aren't much gain


(This post was edited by majid_sabet on Aug 2, 2012, 7:27 PM)


Partner robdotcalm


Aug 2, 2012, 9:50 PM
Post #9 of 10 (9293 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 31, 2002
Posts: 1027

Re: [majid_sabet] Double climbing fatality,Alberta 7/29/12 [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

majid_sabet wrote:

I ran in to something in supertopo pointing , may be one was rapping faster than other person or something in that line and if you are doing a simul rap then both people must rap next to one another. Ideally, you want a short sling attack between the two and both people must control the decent very carefully.

IMO, simul rap should be used as last option in a serious life or death situation where both climbers must rap multi pitches to bail out however, when you look at how much time you save vs risk involved, There aren't much gain

Simul-rappelling is sometimes done on a fin of rock with each rappeller going down a different side. Mostly, this is done when there's no other way down and nothing on the top of the fin to which you can affix an anchor. I've known people who do this regularly. I regard it as desperation move.

Rob.calm


moose_droppings


Aug 3, 2012, 3:24 AM
Post #10 of 10 (9190 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 7, 2005
Posts: 3371

Re: [robdotcalm] Double climbing fatality,Alberta 7/29/12 [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

robdotcalm wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:

I ran in to something in supertopo pointing , may be one was rapping faster than other person or something in that line and if you are doing a simul rap then both people must rap next to one another. Ideally, you want a short sling attack between the two and both people must control the decent very carefully.

IMO, simul rap should be used as last option in a serious life or death situation where both climbers must rap multi pitches to bail out however, when you look at how much time you save vs risk involved, There aren't much gain

Simul-rappelling is sometimes done on a fin of rock with each rappeller going down a different side. Mostly, this is done when there's no other way down and nothing on the top of the fin to which you can affix an anchor. I've known people who do this regularly. I regard it as desperation move.

Rob.calm

Not to uncommon out here on some of our needles.

Whatever your simul-rapping, you need to have knots in the ends of your rope IMO. Being in control and having your wits about are a necessity too on all raps.


Forums : Climbing Information : Accident and Incident Analysis

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook