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apz245
Oct 3, 2012, 7:48 AM
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I may be on the entirely wrong website for this, If I am I apologize.
I've been watching some mountain/rock climbing videos lately and im perplexed by how they're able to do it without ropes/ladders.
basically my question is.. when you have a crevasse, how do you cross it without a ladder? and when you have a straight vertical wall to climb.. im assuming the first person just has to do it without a rope, if they fall that's it.
I've also read that on certain mountains like mckinley they dont use ladders at all.. how is this possible?
Again I apologize if this is the wrong forum, but I assume in both mountain and rock climbing there are crevasses to cross, thanks guys.
(This post was edited by apz245 on Oct 3, 2012, 7:49 AM)
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jeepnphreak
Oct 3, 2012, 2:50 PM
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apz245 wrote: I've been watching some mountain/rock climbing videos lately and im perplexed by how they're able to do it without ropes/ladders.
You may be watching people free soloing. They choose to climb with out the protection of ropes and other gear.
apz245 wrote: basically my question is.. when you have a crevasse, how do you cross it without a ladder? and when you have a straight vertical wall to climb.. im assuming the first person just has to do it without a rope, if they fall that's it.
I guessing you are describing the ladder crossing like ofn Mt Everest, where they use ladders like a bridge to cross over gaps. Depends on the size of the cravass, if the climber can span the cravass with a ladder than just drop the ladder over the gap and cross. If the gap in lager than that that the climbers will either have to go around and find a better location to corss or use ice axes, crapmon and ropes to climb down and up the cravass.
apz245 wrote: I've also read that on certain mountains like mckinley they dont use ladders at all.. how is this possible? small or non existing obsitclaes that can be navigated with out ladders Again I apologize if this is the wrong forum, but I assume in both mountain and rock climbing there are crevasses to cross, thanks guys.
only so often but more so on glacier travel.
My question for you is what videos are you watching so I/we can give a more concise responce
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cracklover
Oct 3, 2012, 4:22 PM
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apz245 wrote: I may be on the entirely wrong website for this, If I am I apologize. I've been watching some mountain/rock climbing videos lately and im perplexed by how they're able to do it without ropes/ladders. basically my question is.. when you have a crevasse, how do you cross it without a ladder? and when you have a straight vertical wall to climb.. im assuming the first person just has to do it without a rope, if they fall that's it. I've also read that on certain mountains like mckinley they dont use ladders at all.. how is this possible? Again I apologize if this is the wrong forum, but I assume in both mountain and rock climbing there are crevasses to cross, thanks guys.
I think what you're trying to ask is the classic question "how does the rope get up there?"
Do a search for "lead climbing".
Cheers,
GO
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Colinhoglund
Oct 3, 2012, 9:19 PM
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1) Most people climb with ropes, but they are there as a backup incase of a fall. Your hands and feet are used to hold onto the rock to make upward progress, and yes, its hard.
2) Crevasses, walk around them or jump over them . . .
3) Every mountain presents it's own challenges, and all can be done without a ladder. For answers to your questions, quit watching Vertical Limit, 127 Hours or other Hollywood movies and watch something like "First Ascent" or "Progression"
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apz245
Oct 3, 2012, 10:02 PM
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Yeah here are some links to the video's im talking about; a lot of ladder crossings and ascents/descents.
These vids are from everest
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=moBJMGNSql4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lIcMB6lD8Do&feature=relmfu
sorry you have to copy and paste, I haven't got a hang of posting videos here yet.
And yeah.. I was assuming they just drop the ladder over the gap.. but then the first guy is crossing with no ropes, just balancing on the ladder?
if they place it wrong or it slips out of place.. the first guy is done for, considering some of those crevasses are hundreds of feet deep.
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apz245
Oct 3, 2012, 10:05 PM
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Yeah cracklover; that's exactly what im trying to ask, I thought putting it that way would be a bit vague though.
It seriously amazes me how people are able to do that, I watch these videos on everest of people crossing these ladders.. and I want to see the guys who set up the ladders/ropes in the first place; and I think about how did the people to first scale all these mountains do it without all the equipment in place.
Gonna do a search on lead climbing; i think thats the term i was looking for, I'll let you guys know how it works out, thanks.
(This post was edited by apz245 on Oct 3, 2012, 10:06 PM)
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Wade308
Oct 3, 2012, 10:50 PM
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Everest has all those bad ass Sherpas laying the route. Those guys were built for high altitude climbing.
And yeah, they just drop the ladders across for the most part. Usually the first guy over will have a rope tied to him in case he takes a tumble.
I love when they have two long ladders tied together. Sketchy.
Look at alpine climbing or expedition climbing. I think that's more what you're after.
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apz245
Oct 3, 2012, 11:43 PM
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yeah sometimes they have 2 ladders strapped together, going different directions.. its crazy.
I'm guessing i'm at the wrong place for alpine or expedition climbing? Honestly I posted here knowing I was probably in the wrong place but you guys have an active community and I figured you'd know your stuff because it seems like a lot of the skills are transferable.
in any case, thanks guys.
Also I did a search on lead climbing, and it gave me an idea on how they get the ropes up there; still seems really sketchy though, i mean you're strapping into an anchor which may or may not hold. (if you placed it there, are the first one using it)
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hugepedro
Oct 7, 2012, 2:50 PM
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apz245 wrote: yeah sometimes they have 2 ladders strapped together, going different directions.. its crazy. I'm guessing i'm at the wrong place for alpine or expedition climbing? Honestly I posted here knowing I was probably in the wrong place but you guys have an active community and I figured you'd know your stuff because it seems like a lot of the skills are transferable. in any case, thanks guys. Also I did a search on lead climbing, and it gave me an idea on how they get the ropes up there; still seems really sketchy though, i mean you're strapping into an anchor which may or may not hold. (if you placed it there, are the first one using it)
It's all about the gear. I take a 1000 foot ladder into the mountains. So far it's gotten me past every obstacle I've encountered. We usually also carry a 50 foot spiral staircase for sections where the ladder won't work, it's best to be prepared. When do you use which technique? It depends. It comes down to your experience and judgement. But we also inspect the ladder for micro fractures before every expedition, you can never be too careful.
I hope this helps clear some things up.
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moose_droppings
Oct 7, 2012, 6:10 PM
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Don't do this.
It would be a lot cheaper to take a NOLS course than to buy beer for Mike.
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uffizy
Oct 16, 2012, 1:22 PM
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Hy everyone!
I'm searching for "survival descending" informations. I'm interested in techniques for descending with few equipment (somewhat like in a survival situation), with only ropes, or a few equipement. How to knot knots, safety knots, how to make a climbing harness from a single piece of rope etc.
I allready find a post about "dürfer descending", with only a simple rope. I'm really interested in such things.
Any links, videos releted to the thread would be appriciated.
Thank you for advance!
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JAB
Oct 16, 2012, 7:36 PM
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uffizy wrote: I allready find a post about "dürfer descending", with only a simple rope. I'm really interested in such things.
You are talking about the Dulfersitz. Try that on google.
(This post was edited by JAB on Oct 16, 2012, 7:37 PM)
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uffizy
Oct 16, 2012, 7:40 PM
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Yes. It was named dürfer in the hungarian guide. But I need info about other techniques.:)
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