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cracklover
Oct 9, 2012, 8:19 PM
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OK, on further research, it looks like a new sport route was bolted there since my guidebook came out, and they were on Lady and the Tramp. Two pitch, 5.4, bolted.
Anyway...
To answer your question directly, robx - I have no idea what the deal was in the first situation, when you were still on CDDD, but in answer to the second situation, when you were at the base, it sounds like this was the situation:
Leader was getting lowered off pitch one of Lady and the Tramp, cleaning his draws as he went. His rope was roughly 30 feet too short. Am I describing correctly the scene you came upon? If so...
If there were no bolts in the first 30 feet, I would just tie my rope to his, pass the knot in the belay, and lower him the rest of the way.
If there were bolts in the first 30 feet, I would probably solo up to clean the draws, climb back down, and then do the same as above.
If there were bolts in the first 30 feet, and for whatever reason I didn't feel comfortable soloing it, I'd do the following:
1 - Tie my rope to theirs.
2 - Have the belayer lower the leader until the rope runs out.
3 - Put the leader on belay below the knot, and mule it off.
4 - Have the belayer take the leader off belay (now the leader is on me.)
5 - Climb the first 30 feet, using the leader as a counterweight to protect myself, cleaning the draws as I go.
6 - Once the climber is on the ground, and I have cleaned all the gear, undo the mule knot, and single-strand rappel (still using the leader as a counterweight) to the ground myself.
GO
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cracklover
Oct 9, 2012, 8:22 PM
Post #27 of 35
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hugepedro wrote: I assumed the munter hitch would be for the leader, who didn't have a belay device, to belay up the second?
How does that help anything? Now you just have two climbers stranded with a too-short rope, instead of one.
In reply to: I still don't understand why he didn't just tie his rope on theirs and finish lowering the guy. N00bs rescuing n00bs, I guess.
That's pretty much what I suggested.
GO
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hugepedro
Oct 9, 2012, 9:16 PM
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cracklover wrote: hugepedro wrote: I assumed the munter hitch would be for the leader, who didn't have a belay device, to belay up the second? How does that help anything? Now you just have two climbers stranded with a too-short rope, instead of one. GO
Lots of assumptions here, but I assume he was going to suggest a munter hitch belay by the leader so that they would have a means of finishing the climbing and then using whatever standard descent is there, rather than trying to lower off.
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cracklover
Oct 9, 2012, 9:41 PM
Post #29 of 35
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hugepedro wrote: cracklover wrote: hugepedro wrote: I assumed the munter hitch would be for the leader, who didn't have a belay device, to belay up the second? How does that help anything? Now you just have two climbers stranded with a too-short rope, instead of one. GO Lots of assumptions here, but I assume he was going to suggest a munter hitch belay by the leader so that they would have a means of finishing the climbing and then using whatever standard descent is there, rather than trying to lower off.
Okay, that makes sense. In fact, I see that one of the comments on the route description on MP suggests that parties walk off. So perhaps that's what the OP had in mind. Certainly very unusual for Rumney, so I had no idea that's what he meant (if it is indeed what he had in mind).
GO
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ClimbSoHigh
Oct 10, 2012, 5:16 PM
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Since this took place on CDD with roped teams, I second the less of a gumby helping more of a gumby theory.
Assuming the guy was about to be lowered off the end of the rope, good to hear the OP got that safety knot tied in time, or this jumbled mess of an almost accident could have been an actual accident report.
To clarify the climb, the first 40 feet you can walk up standing up with no hands. The first pitch is over 30M long (guessing a 40M pitch), so you cannot double rope rap from the ledge on a single 60M rope. If you try you will come up about 30 feet short.
What really confuses me (other than the munter part) is that the party could not lower the climber back to the ground since there was not enough rope to do so, resulting in an almost accident. If you have enough rope for the leader to climb to the ledge, you also have enough rope to lower the same distance + rope stretch. Also, lowering the climber would strand the belayer on the 1/2 way ledge.
To save the day all you would have had to do when you got to the ledge is lower both of them single strand back to the ground. Then finish your climb.
Or you could help them fix their rope to the anchor, have them both rap single strand to the gournd, and then booty their rope. Think of it as helping to prevent future accidents.
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jakedatc
Oct 10, 2012, 10:20 PM
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or they could have just swung over 10' to the woods and walked down.
it amazes me people rappel Clippity.. it takes 5 minutes to walk down and much longer to rap.. 
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jt512
Oct 10, 2012, 11:13 PM
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jakedatc wrote: or they could have just swung over 10' to the woods and walked down. it amazes me people rappel Clippity.. it takes 5 minutes to walk down and much longer to rap..
N00bs rap. You know that.
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tradmanclimbs
Oct 11, 2012, 12:34 AM
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I have only done clippity oce. Not familar with the terrain up there so I strapped a rope on my back and hiked up it and rapped back down. 60m made it fine. Find it hard to believe they retroed a rout to the right and did not rig it for 60's?
I would have simply walked up to the guy and coached him through whatever was nessicary to get out of his situation.
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jakedatc
Oct 11, 2012, 4:09 AM
Post #34 of 35
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jt512 wrote: jakedatc wrote: or they could have just swung over 10' to the woods and walked down. it amazes me people rappel Clippity.. it takes 5 minutes to walk down and much longer to rap.. N00bs rap. You know that.
truth..
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jakedatc
Oct 11, 2012, 4:13 AM
Post #35 of 35
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tradmanclimbs wrote: I have only done clippity oce. Not familar with the terrain up there so I strapped a rope on my back and hiked up it and rapped back down. 60m made it fine. Find it hard to believe they retroed a rout to the right and did not rig it for 60's? I would have simply walked up to the guy and coached him through whatever was nessicary to get out of his situation.
book says it takes 4 rappels to get down. i think if you go from just the first bolted anchor to the bottom you end up on this small "ledge" which is just a outcrop of the woods that you can walk down from. if they hadn't freaked out i bet they could have turned around and walked.. at the very least could have butt slid down. if it was not an exaggeration of 30' then they could have had 50m rope and came up way short.
If they were on lady and the tramp i'm not sure where you get with either length from P1 anchor..
(This post was edited by jakedatc on Oct 11, 2012, 4:25 AM)
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