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Wade308
Oct 22, 2012, 6:23 PM
Post #26 of 105
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I refuse to get old.
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gunkiemike
Oct 22, 2012, 8:54 PM
Post #27 of 105
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Registered: Oct 1, 2002
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A ripe old 56 TODAY.
Entered my first ever climbing comp yesterday and didn't embarrass myself too badly.
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robdotcalm
Oct 22, 2012, 9:27 PM
Post #28 of 105
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Registered: Oct 31, 2002
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Time to contribute, since I think that at 82 I’m the oldest active-climber on rc.com. So far this year I’ve had a decent season in Colorado and Wyoming having climbed outdoors 52 days and am looking forward to an upcoming trip to Joshua Tree. (I’ve climbed a few days in the gym but don’t keep track of that). With 6 grandkids and their 4 sets of parents local, family activities and social obligations limit my climbing time (I’m not complaining, just describing; I’m glad to have the family close by). At my age I’m grateful that I’m still walking ( as so many of my contemporaries have problems with that) and have a sense of thankfulness each time I climb that I’m still able to. If you had asked me 20 years ago, if I’d still be climbing when I was 82, I would have said, “Probably, not.” In terms of probabilities that was a good answer. A lot of luck is involved in being able to stay active as one gets old. I take my climbing seasons one at a time. I look forward to climbing next year and that’s as far ahead as I can contemplate.
Yesterday, reminded me of my luck. For a starter, my wife and I attended the third funeral in a month for one of our contemporaries. In the evening, we went to a concert and met two more of our contemporaries. One was using cane for his hip. The second recently had spinal surgery for degenerated disks. Lots of hardware installed. This fellow always has kept in good shape--six months ago, he had hiked a 14er. No injury involved in disks’ deterioration.
I started climbing when I was 41 so that I’ve now been climbing for 41 years--half my life. I currently lead trad 5.8 (sometimes having to work at it a bit) and follow 5.9--from slab to wide cracks. This is a noticeable decrease from what I could do years ago. For example, this summer I followed a 5.8 that I thought was hard. In 1991, I on-sight soloed the route and thought it was easy. If you’re going to keep climbing as you get really old, say past 75 or possibly 70, you’ll have to enjoy doing easier climbs. I’ve know a couple of climbers, who, when their abilities started declining, no longer enjoyed the sport and stopped. That’s not been the case for me. I enjoy being challenged, and the easier climbs now challenge me.
My upper body strength has stayed OK, at body weight 135 I do chinups with 50 lbs in a backpack. There is a significant decline in my maximal aerobic capacity so that I’m slow on approaches and appreciative when my younger partners (well, they are all younger than me) will carry most of the gear. Alpine routes are no longer feasible because of my slowness and even some crags, e.g., Sundance at Lumpy Ridge, now seem too far to be enjoyable. Fortunately, the places that I climb the most Eldorado, Vedauwoo, and Joshua Tree have predominately short approaches with little elevation gain. And, of course, when you’re old, recovery time takes longer.
My wife doesn’t climb, but we enjoy hiking and weight lifting together. I’ve lifted weights regularly for 60 years. There have been many discussions on rc.com on whether or not lifting is helpful for climbing, and I’m not entering into how it applies to younger climbers. I know that if I didn’t lift, I would lack the sturdiness to climb and the muscle mass needed for strength. Also, high-repetition medium weight squats keep my knees functional including an arthritic, off-injured left knee. Hiking, even with a heavy pack, does not provide the same therapeutic benefit. I have a nice 425 sq. ft. lifting room at home (enclosed patio). All my lifting is done with free weights—no machines.
This summer and last, my partners and I managed to put in a few first ascents at Vedauwoo. (http://www.mountainproject.com/...playground/105972860) Sarah Palin’s Drill, Day of Wrath, Panhandle, Barbed Wire. (From the description of Barbed Wire, there may not be a second ascent.) To finish leading it (onsight, ground up), I removed all my gear except for my harness, squiggled up the exit crack and then retrieved the gear with a sling when I got to the belay stance on shelf. Fun stuff for an old man. (There are some nasty comments about me on the MP page, but at my age it’s satisfying to still be able to create controversy.)
Attached image is getting ready for another day's work at Vedauwoo
Cheers,
Rob.calm
(This post was edited by robdotcalm on Oct 22, 2012, 9:43 PM)
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gblauer
Moderator
Oct 23, 2012, 1:29 AM
Post #29 of 105
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Registered: Oct 4, 2002
Posts: 2824
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It would be an honor to climb with you and rgold.
I am at the gunks...Rgold will you climb with me sometime?
Colorado may be more problematic but feasible if you would climb with me.
I would like to climb well into my 80's as well.
Take good care!
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oldrnotboldr
Oct 23, 2012, 12:17 PM
Post #30 of 105
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Registered: May 23, 2005
Posts: 306
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Wow, what a bunch of old farts! Last I knew (last year I think- I forget) I was pushing 59. Used to climb pretty hard (5.10, 5.12). Last five years or so I do more bouldering and low grade stuff. There are a few others around up north here that still climb, a couple of them climb 5.9 or better.
If you ever get north of Ind. look us up. There is still plenty of unclimbed crags in northern Ontario. Some pretty easy to 5.12 or better!
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TradEddie
Oct 23, 2012, 2:12 PM
Post #31 of 105
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Registered: Mar 29, 2007
Posts: 164
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I was beginning to feel that impending doom as I reached my late thirties, but one day up in New Paltz, Gail mentioned that "some old guy" was giving a slide show in R&S, that "old guy" was Fred Beckey, who qualifies as old by any measure. After that show I realized that I was still very young, and could never use age as an excuse.
TE
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oldguy53
Oct 24, 2012, 1:46 AM
Post #32 of 105
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Registered: Jan 29, 2005
Posts: 115
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It seems no matter what time , no matter what age THE ADVENTURE CONTINUES. I've gain new insight, some knowledge, perhaps wisdom. thanks to all. bobo
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jorgegonzalez
Oct 24, 2012, 4:09 AM
Post #33 of 105
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Registered: Sep 17, 2005
Posts: 144
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I'm 57 and my first lead was the Bastille Crack in 1974 with a 16 year old Lenny Coyne. Slowing down a bit but still lead 5.9 trad, and although I'm dicey on steep climbs, I'm still a monster on slab and cracks.
I ride an Andalusian stallion most mornings and regularly ride a bike, ski often in the winter, and am now a soccer coach/intermediate referee (U-14/16).
I once had a partner older than myself who kept putting off a planned climb in the Sierras. When I confronted his lack of dedication to the objective he told me: "The difference between you and I is you see all those climbs you haven't done and still hope to do them. I see the same climbs and wish I had already done them."
(This post was edited by jorgegonzalez on Oct 24, 2012, 4:12 AM)
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JohnCook
Oct 24, 2012, 1:04 PM
Post #34 of 105
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Registered: Dec 27, 2006
Posts: 221
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63, still leading English E2 outdoors, F7a+ indoors. Only climb routes that look fun. Total mileage since January when I returned to the UK from USA approx 55 000ft of routes from 5.4 onwards. I have promised my mother that I will stop climbing when I grow up! Hence I still do stupid childish things. And intend to continue climbing until they are screwing the lid down! (Even then I may try to climb out of the box)
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yanqui
Oct 24, 2012, 1:59 PM
Post #35 of 105
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Registered: Feb 24, 2004
Posts: 1559
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I'm 54 going on 55, with more than 30 years of climbing experiences around the world, but after reading through this thread, I've decided I'm still too young to have anything relevant to say. Maybe I'll post back, again, after I've climbed another 20 or 30 years. Maybe then I'll actually have something of interest to add.
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robdotcalm
Oct 24, 2012, 3:40 PM
Post #36 of 105
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Registered: Oct 31, 2002
Posts: 1027
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gblauer wrote: It would be an honor to climb with you and rgold. I am at the gunks...Rgold will you climb with me sometime? Colorado may be more problematic but feasible if you would climb with me. I would like to climb well into my 80's as well. Take good care!
Let me know when you're planning on coming to Colorado. I look forward to climbing with you.
Cheers,
Rob.calm
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rgold
Oct 24, 2012, 6:54 PM
Post #37 of 105
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Registered: Dec 3, 2002
Posts: 1804
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Sure Gail! Be warned that I'm still rehabbing a torn ACL and am coming off a 7-month layoff, so have to tone it down a bit, but other than that I'd be happy climb with you.
Like you, I'm in awe of RobDot. In addition to climbing, pullups with 37% of bodyweight added is mighty impressive. I don't even know if I'll live into my 80's, but if so I hope I can still climb, and being able to do any kind of pullup would be nice too...
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sharensmith
Oct 25, 2012, 4:53 AM
Post #38 of 105
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Registered: Oct 25, 2012
Posts: 4
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I just keep my gears well and inspect them before using.
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oldguy53
Oct 25, 2012, 12:43 PM
Post #39 of 105
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Registered: Jan 29, 2005
Posts: 115
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robdotcalm---- Are you still doing routes like the South Face of the Petit Grepon?? I finished the Standard route 11 years ago and have been stormed off the South Face. I would like to take care of unfinished business. I need a carrot in front of my face to keep my training on track. Possible???????? bobo
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jgill
Oct 25, 2012, 6:53 PM
Post #40 of 105
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Registered: May 18, 2002
Posts: 653
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Rob and Rich,
Great to hear you are staying very active, fighting the good fight.
Long may you run . . . !
My best to you both,
John 
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robdotcalm
Oct 25, 2012, 7:39 PM
Post #41 of 105
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rgold wrote: Sure Gail! Be warned that I'm still rehabbing a torn ACL and am coming off a 7-month layoff, so have to tone it down a bit, but other than that I'd be happy climb with you. Like you, I'm in awe of RobDot. In addition to climbing, pullups with 37% of bodyweight added is mighty impressive. I don't even know if I'll live into my 80's, but if so I hope I can still climb, and being able to do any kind of pullup would be nice too...
Rich,
Thanks for your kind comments, which are encouraging and appreciated.
I had a prosthetic ACL installed (1991) and then uninstalled (2010).The picture shows me with the uninstalled tibia screw after the 2010 surgery. Recovery in both cases was OK. Pretty much back to normal after a few months. Hope your knee works OK and good climbing.
Rob.calm
(This post was edited by robdotcalm on Oct 25, 2012, 7:43 PM)
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Syd
Oct 25, 2012, 8:16 PM
Post #43 of 105
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Registered: Oct 25, 2012
Posts: 300
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climbingaggie03 wrote: I'm 31 and I can still climb 5.9, I know it won't last forever, but maybe for another couple of years I'll be able to enjoy it.
Are you kidding ? "Still climb 5.9" ? I'm still improving at 64. I thought I'd plateaued until I bought a hangboard a couple of years back. I'm close to doing a 5.12a clean and my goal is a 5.12c. I think I'd read about a guy 59 doing 5.13d.
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Syd
Oct 25, 2012, 8:25 PM
Post #44 of 105
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Registered: Oct 25, 2012
Posts: 300
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robdotcalm wrote: Time to contribute, since I think that at 82 ... Fantastic ! Congratulations on being such an inspiration. I can see the only reason for ever slowing down is injury. As we get older, we heal slower and gain a growing list of medical problems. I've often wondered what age will be my peak ? It's obviously very different for different people.
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climbingaggie03
Oct 25, 2012, 9:01 PM
Post #45 of 105
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Registered: Mar 18, 2004
Posts: 1173
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Syd wrote: climbingaggie03 wrote: I'm 31 and I can still climb 5.9, I know it won't last forever, but maybe for another couple of years I'll be able to enjoy it. Are you kidding ? "Still climb 5.9" ? I'm still improving at 64. I thought I'd plateaued until I bought a hangboard a couple of years back. I'm close to doing a 5.12a clean and my goal is a 5.12c. I think I'd read about a guy 59 doing 5.13d.
Honestly, yes, it's more like 5.7, but I can top rope 5.9 sometimes
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budman
Oct 25, 2012, 9:40 PM
Post #46 of 105
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 170
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I don't worry too much about getting old except the fear of forgetting my children's names and things like that. Had the ultimate complement from a 5 year old at The Ice Cream Parlor this past weekend. After climbing with her and giving her a belay lesson while her parents climbed together she proceeded to give me a test. I asked what it was for and she replied to see if I could stay and play with them. Passed with flying colors, was allowed to stay and climb and invited to dinner. I had not met her or her parents before, friends of a friend.
Possibly in 10 years or so she will be climbing 12's at the creek and inviting me to belay and enjoy a top rope.
90% of life is showing up. So with that I'll be in Potrero again this winter. No new routes this year unless you bring the bolts and haul the gear to the base. Otherwise I'll be available to climb and just enjoy the climbing this year.
Mental activity I hear is good for the brain. So I graduated high school in 69, you do the math. Moab is getting harder and harder for me to climb consistently at a 5.10 level. Going home to the Gunks is always an option to climb high quality climbs at any level. Wish the weather was as good there as it is here.
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oldguy53
Oct 25, 2012, 11:02 PM
Post #47 of 105
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Registered: Jan 29, 2005
Posts: 115
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instead of the math i'll just say i'm a 69 'er too. Roosevelt High . Moab and Gunks you got it made. bobo
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dan2see
Oct 26, 2012, 3:17 AM
Post #48 of 105
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Registered: Mar 29, 2006
Posts: 1497
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budman wrote: ... 90% of life is showing up ...
Yeah.
Sometimes I think the young guys are a bunch of egoistic twerps and I really don't want to spend half the day in the car with them. Anyway I hate mornings. And rain.
But then I bite my tongue and just go along. And of course those guys are actually a lot of fun to share the day's adventures with. I always end up having fun.
That is a lesson I've had to learn: Just show up, and the fun takes care of itself.
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hugepedro
Oct 26, 2012, 3:45 AM
Post #49 of 105
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Registered: May 28, 2002
Posts: 2875
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Daaaaang! I thought I was old, but in this thread I'm a punk of 45! Hahaha, suckit, geezers!
30 years in the game. My rock climbing probably peaked 10 years ago, but I still have my eye on my biggest big mountain prize. Unfortunately, my torn ACL and MCL are going to delay that a bit. Wait a minute, does that mean I'm getting old?
I had no idea some of you guys were this old though. I might have to change my sig.
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havard
Oct 26, 2012, 5:14 AM
Post #50 of 105
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Registered: Feb 26, 2006
Posts: 49
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Syd wrote: climbingaggie03 wrote: I'm 31 and I can still climb 5.9, I know it won't last forever, but maybe for another couple of years I'll be able to enjoy it. Are you kidding ? "Still climb 5.9" ? I'm still improving at 64. I thought I'd plateaued until I bought a hangboard a couple of years back. I'm close to doing a 5.12a clean and my goal is a 5.12c. I think I'd read about a guy 59 doing 5.13d.
Syd, you have no idea how this is inspiering me! I was well into my 5.11 trad climbs when I was shut down due to a bad shoulder two years ago. I´m finally recovering enough to start climbing again, and you still improving tells me I´ve lost nothing! Thanks, man!
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