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EntropyFletch
Oct 17, 2012, 9:01 PM
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Registered: Aug 4, 2011
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Hi guys and gals,
My brother and I have been climbing for about a year and a half (top-rope up to 5.11c outside and 5.12a in the gym, lead up to 5.11a in the gym, limited leading outdoors, boulder up to V4 outside and V5 in the gym +/-). We are heading up to Holcomb Valley with some friends (even N00bier than us) and plan on bouldering and toproping the Pinnacles area...maybe even leading some moderate 5.8-9 routes.
My question is, in order to set up top-ropes do we need to first lead all the climbs in the area or can we hike/scramble to the bolts to set up top-ropes? I printed a list of about a dozen TR routes in the area from Mountain Project, but not sure if these can be set from the top.
Also, how are the roads after our little storm last week?
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gratefuljoe
Oct 17, 2012, 9:30 PM
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Registered: Dec 22, 2005
Posts: 27
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you will have to lead 99% of the climbs in Holcomb no walk ups except for some stuff in the parking lot one of them being the hardest climb in all of big bear its a 5 bolt over hung face just after you walk through the fence on your left it goes at 5.13c-d but can be top roped. the best bouldering is on the other side of the lake at a place called little Tibet park just outside of the camp site the boulders are just through the campsite all over the place. From State Highway 18, west of the village, turn left on to Millcreek Road. Proceed past Aspen Glen Picnic Area, 0.4 mile and turn left to continue on to Millcreek Road to Forest Road 2N10. Proceed on 2N10 for 0.8 mile to the end of pavement. Continue on 2N10 past Cedar Lake turnoff. Proceed on 2N10 for 3.3 miles to 2N86. Turn left on 2N86 and continue for 0.1 of a mile. Turn right for 0.2 of a mile to Bluff Mesa Group Campground.
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EntropyFletch
Oct 17, 2012, 9:43 PM
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Registered: Aug 4, 2011
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Thanks for the directions!
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EntropyFletch
Oct 23, 2012, 10:50 PM
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Registered: Aug 4, 2011
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Had a great time at the pinnacles last weekend. Lead my first 5.7, 5.8, 5.9, and 5.10a...in fact these were all my first outdoor leads. Great toproping for my friends. Everybody at the crag was super nice, helping us find routes to our skill level as we didn't have a guidebook. Can't wait to get back up there!
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surfstar
Oct 25, 2012, 6:59 PM
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Registered: May 31, 2011
Posts: 206
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Yes, a gym climber could feel quite at home there.
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EntropyFletch
Oct 25, 2012, 9:16 PM
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Registered: Aug 4, 2011
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I'm not quite sure if I should be offended by that or not...
Are you really a surf star? You mean you didn't learn to surf in the wave pool with Rick Cane?
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gratefuljoe
Oct 25, 2012, 9:42 PM
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Registered: Dec 22, 2005
Posts: 27
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wow lets see you go do 4 star 5.9, thats just the name the climbs goes at 5.13c/d or try joes dilemma 5.13a or Under The Influence 5.12d. there is a lot of supper stiff climbs in Holcomb you just need to talk to the local strong climbers who put them up. |
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jt512
Oct 26, 2012, 1:59 AM
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Registered: Apr 12, 2001
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gratefuljoe wrote: wow lets see you go do 4 star 5.9, thats just the name the climbs goes at 5.13c/d or try joes dilemma 5.13a or Under The Influence 5.12d. there is a lot of supper stiff climbs in Holcomb you just need to talk to the local strong climbers who put them up.
You've presented evidence for three.
(This post was edited by jt512 on Oct 26, 2012, 2:00 AM)
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gratefuljoe
Oct 26, 2012, 6:49 PM
Post #9 of 9
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Registered: Dec 22, 2005
Posts: 27
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ok hear are a few more, Beauty In Darkness 512.c,Die Hard 511.c,Green Planet 5.12a,Firewalker 5.12b,Fire On The Mountain 5.12b,Blackout 5.11d,Sliver 5.12b, Screaming Trees, 5.13a, Sorcery 5.12a, Rumblefish 5.12a,
Trouser Trout 5.12a.
After bolting most of the hard lines in big bear I have learned that there is a lot of hard lines they just never were put in the book, if you want to see some crazy hard lines stop at the quartz band and take a look at it. hope this will give you a good start on some stiffer climbs to try happy sending if you need more i can send you topos via email for all the hard shit. |
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