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Daggers
Oct 29, 2012, 11:35 PM
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So I just broke through the plateau i was on and i'm climbing v6's now after starting climbing about 8 months ago. I was wondering how long it usually takes most people to get to this point. My gym ranks the problems like horse pens 40 so you can get an idea of how hard it's rated
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jbone
Oct 29, 2012, 11:57 PM
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If your OK with it then fine but to a lot of us your sends become legit when your doing it outside. Plan a trip to HP40 and then you will know 4 sure.
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jomagam
Oct 30, 2012, 12:03 AM
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Most climbers never get to the V6 level. Happy now ?
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Daggers
Oct 30, 2012, 12:27 AM
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What's the difference between grades indoors and outdoors? isn't a v3 a v3 and a v8 a v8 whether indoors or outdoors?
and wow jomagam, way to show some charm.....
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theextremist04
Oct 30, 2012, 12:29 AM
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Daggers wrote: What's the difference between grades indoors and outdoors? isn't a v3 a v3 and a v8 a v8 whether indoors or outdoors? and wow jomagam, way to show some charm.....
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Daggers
Oct 30, 2012, 12:33 AM
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several months ago i went to horse pens 40 and thought that outside was easier since the whole rock is good texture for feet vs. the rubbed smooth wall surface indoors. but i do get confused as to what's best to grab on the boulder when outdoors.
my question's still not answered though lol. since there's a difference in indoors vs. outdoors, then how about the time it takes to do outdoors v6's?
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jomagam
Oct 30, 2012, 1:11 AM
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Daggers wrote: my question's still not answered though lol. since there's a difference in indoors vs. outdoors, then how about the time it takes to do outdoors v6's?
I already answered it. The question makes no sense since most climbers never get to that level. So for some it's forever, but I'm sure there are climbers transitioning from other sports like gymnastics who do it within a week.
Generally speaking improvement in climbing, like other sports, varies a lot based on your age, physical fitness, body type, etc... If you still don't get it, then try answering these questions:
o How many years of training does it take for a runner to reach the 3 hour marathon level ?
o How long does it take an average person to become a millionaire ?
(This post was edited by jomagam on Oct 30, 2012, 1:13 AM)
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jbone
Oct 30, 2012, 1:30 AM
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Daggers wrote: What's the difference between grades indoors and outdoors? isn't a v3 a v3 and a v8 a v8 whether indoors or outdoors? and wow jomagam, way to show some charm.....
Grading problems indoors is kinda like making a hangboard with 5 different hold sizes and saying if you do a pullup on the first you climb V2 the second V3 the third V4 etc.....
Where outside the rock has offered the climber a puzzle and your goal is to use the techniques and your personal strengths to unlock the sequence that allows you to top it out.
Every grade is subjective to the area and the style of climbing it offers. It is generally considered that you must be able to climb a grade comfortably at any area to be considered solid at any particular grade.
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jomagam
Oct 30, 2012, 1:41 AM
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The other reason why indoor grades are off is that the V-scale starts rather high with V0 being equivalent to about 5.10b. You need to set boulder problems for newbies who would rope climb at the 5.7 level, and most gym owners don't bother to use a different scale for them.
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shockabuku
Oct 30, 2012, 2:11 AM
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Most people will never boulder V6.
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Daggers
Oct 30, 2012, 11:27 AM
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if not everyone becomes a millionaire, just use logic and turn the question into how long does it take the average millionaire to get to the million dollar point.
I wasn't aware that v6 isn't obtained by most people that climb on a regular basis.
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bearbreeder
Oct 30, 2012, 12:10 PM
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indoors or outdoors?
many kids do v6 indoors ... not as many outdoors
just like the "magic" 5.12 number ...
anyone can climb 5.12 ... of course it can be easier if yr still young, are nice and skinny, etc ... but anyone who puts in the time, focusses on their technique and has the desire can climb a 5.12 in a few years ...
the problem is that many if not most climbers dont have the desire or the willpower ... they shut themselves out before even trying ...
the trick is to only climb with people who have a strong desire to get better and climb to the limit of their abilities ... not the people who want to go out do a few easy climbs and yak all day about how hardcore they are for leading some moderate trad
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granite_grrl
Oct 30, 2012, 12:12 PM
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Daggers wrote: if not everyone becomes a millionaire, just use logic and turn the question into how long does it take the average millionaire to get to the million dollar point. I wasn't aware that v6 isn't obtained by most people that climb on a regular basis.
While the grading isn't totally transferable (which is why they have two different grading systems) you can consider V6 ~= 5.12+.
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camhead
Oct 30, 2012, 1:05 PM
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Most gym climbers will never hit v6. However, most young, skinny, gym boulderers will hit a v6 in the gym within a year. It has less to do with actual talent, and more to do with your body type. As others have said, you are not really a v6 climber until you have done multiple styles at the grade: crimps, slab, horizontal roof, dyno, sloper, etc.
And, of course, it all depends on the gym, too. The people in here who are just automatically dismissing gyms and saying, "whoa, plastic won't prepare you for outdoors!" are oversimplifying things. If you've got a good gym with good setters, it is pretty likely that you'll get in a position to send v6 on your next outdoor trip. A lot of gym bouldering transfers to outside rock more easily than roped climbing. But, that's only if it's a good gym.
So, you did a v6; good. You are slightly better than average. But you're not going to be snagging any fat sponsorships anytime soon.
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louBlissab
Oct 30, 2012, 2:42 PM
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Daggers wrote: I wasn't aware that v6 isn't obtained by most people that climb on a regular basis.
Hey Daggers,
Don't be self-aggrandizing. You've been climbing for 8 months and you don't know the answer to you original question? Why do you even care?
Like others have stated, many climbers don't achieve V6, whether or not they even try to or care to. It all has to do with body type, age, injuries, motivation, time, lifestyle...on and on. It's the personal challenge and personal fulfillment that is important. As you get older, you will realize that the numbers become less important and the memories, experiences and the people you meet are what really stands-out.
As an example, I have been climbing for +25 years and trad up mid-5.10...I can't get my ass off a V2 sit-start in the gym to save my life.
Indoor climbing grades are soft, because gym owners want their customers to feel good and have fun and to come back another day. Grades indoors do not have a consistant grading concensious to dial-in the true level of difficultly. Indoor routes are taken down in two weeks or so.
Outdoor climbing is the true measure of a climber's level of ability.
AB
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bearbreeder
Oct 30, 2012, 3:04 PM
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louBlissab wrote: Indoor climbing grades are soft, because gym owners want their customers to feel good and have fun and to come back another day. Grades indoors do not have a consistant grading concensious to dial-in the true level of difficultly. Indoor routes are taken down in two weeks or so. AB
bull ... they can be soft or they can be hard ... there are plenty of gyms where a "5.11" feels just as hard as a 5.12 sport route here in squamish ...
nor are there any real consensus in grading across areas ... or even within an area ... plenty of "soft" routes around as well as sandbags
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DemolitionRed
Oct 30, 2012, 4:38 PM
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louBlissab you should re-read what you wrote as you completely contradicted yourself.
I multi pitch sport at 5.11-5-12 outside. Inside I generally find it tougher because my routes been worked out for me and not the other way round.
Bouldering I only ever do in a gym because it scares the hell out of me! I do around V4 sometimes V5 but if I had a harness and rope I think I'd be a bit braver!
You can not compare bouldering to climbing on rope, especially multi pitch and high exposure stuff. Its a totally other animal.
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Syd
Oct 31, 2012, 9:54 AM
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I agree that most people never climb V6. Many gyms make routes extra soft, so you keep coming back to build your ego ... and it sounds as though it's working.
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DemolitionRed
Oct 31, 2012, 10:17 AM
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Syd wrote: I agree that most people never climb V6. Many gyms make routes extra soft, so you keep coming back to build your ego ... and it sounds as though it's working.
Actually I find that gyms vary hugely. Some routes I have climbed in a gym have been far tougher than the grade they have set and some much softer than the grade.
The last gym I went to had its bottom rope climbs set by boulderers. The reason I think this is because the final grab at the top of every 15 meter climb involved a dynamic jump!!
Those French 6As were far tougher than any 6A I would find outdoors.
Saying that, I don't think you can use internal grades to judge your capabilities. You certainly can't compare a bouldering grade against a rope grade.
I think bouldering is full of acrobatic skill. Its awesome to watch and its fantastic to combine bouldering and rope climbing together but its not the same thing at all. Its like the difference between skate boarding and snow boarding.
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Syd
Oct 31, 2012, 8:58 PM
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I once took a woman outdoors for the first time who claimed she could climb 26 indoors. I started her on a 21 but she couldn't make the first move. In the end she couldn't even make it up a 17. She was quite embarassed.
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bearbreeder
Oct 31, 2012, 9:39 PM
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and i one took a "hardcore trad" climber who climbs 5.11 crack so he says into the gym, and he couldnt even get up an overhanging 5.10 route
the people who degenerate and say gyms are "soft", which some may be and others arent, are people who usually cant get up that overhanging 5.11+/12 climb there in the first place ...
gyms are for training ... and they excel for that because the routes are often very sustained ... unlike many climbs around here ...
i can point you to tons of "soft" climbs outside here ...
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jomagam
Oct 31, 2012, 10:06 PM
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bearbreeder wrote: and i one took a "hardcore trad" climber who climbs 5.11 crack so he says into the gym, and he couldnt even get up an overhanging 5.10 route
Crack climbing is a different sport.
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bearbreeder
Oct 31, 2012, 10:26 PM
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my point exactly ... as is gym climbing from many different types if outdoor climbing ...
if you fancy the grades soft ... i cordially invite you to my gym which may be soft in the lower grades ... but since yr hardcore ill throw you on the 12-/+ here and see you onsight everything ...
if you can do that ill even buy you beer and dinner
then ill take you to the soft climbs are around here and well see which you think is softer ...
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