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trad vs. sport
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estebandb


Jun 29, 2002, 8:39 AM
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trad vs. sport
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Please forgive my ignorance, maybe its cuz english its my second language or maybe just cuz i'm a newbee, but could someone explain me the difference??

Thanx


reno


Jun 29, 2002, 8:48 AM
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Trad climbing entails placing removable pieces of gear or using the features of the rock to protect against a fall. Sport climbing utilizes fixed bolts that are clipped with a carabiner/quickdraw to provide protection.

From talking with climber friends, the same "grade" (i.e. 5.10) will be harder as a trad climb than a sport climb. In other words, a 5.10 trad route is tougher than a 5.10 sport. Some may disagree with this...it is, after all, a matter of opinion.

Does this help?

Best,

JRB


dustinap
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Jun 29, 2002, 10:57 AM
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5.10 should be 5.10, or atleast that is how it was explained to me. Here is my personal experience.

Trad climbing, and sport climbing is much different. I can sport climb harder then some of my friends, but they can trad climb harder then me. Why is this?

Most sport climbing places is face climbing. My crack climbing technique isn't great. I do better on overhung stuff with stuff to hold on to, not stuffing my hand into a crack, or standing onto nothing on a slab. This is my experience however.




[ This Message was edited by: dustinap on 2002-06-29 10:57 ]


reno


Jun 29, 2002, 11:07 AM
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5.10 should be 5.10, or atleast that is how it was explained to me.
----------------------

One would think so, since that makes sense. And admittedly, I'm pretty damn far from an expert (closer to novice than expert, actually) but here's my take on this:

Placing a piece of gear (be it a Camalot, Tricam, Nut, Hex, or whatever) takes a longer time than clipping a bolt. Placing gear requires that you look at the spot you wish to place, think about the appropriate gear, find that gear on your rack, place, check placement, evaluate for possible 'better' options, extend as needed, then clip.

Sport climbing (which, by the way, I DO enjoy at times...) require a little less: Get to the bolt, give it a little shake/wiggle to check stability, make sure there are no sharp or rusted edges, clip the 'draw (most likely the only things on the rack, and therefore easier to grasp the 'right one,') and clip in with the rope.

Maybe I'm a total idiot or freak of nature, but a 5.10a sport is MUCH easier for me than a 5.10a trad.

Funny, though...I like trad more than sport.

Either way, to each his/her own. As long as your climbing, who cares, right?

Best,

JRB


Partner phylp


Jun 29, 2002, 11:59 AM
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There is a further distinction that seems to get lost between the "trad" vs. "sport" forums.
Sport climbing exclusively utilizes fixed bolts for protection, but in addition, these bolts are "relatively" close together. That means different things to different people, but I think most sport climbers would not consider face climbs where the bolts are 15-20 feet apart and more, to be a sport climb.
There are lots of these more sparsely bolted face climbs out there.


Partner holdplease2


Dec 28, 2002, 5:57 PM
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Trad vs Sport. Hmmm.

Trad: Can be tough sometimes to find your way, as there are not alot of bolts to follow. In theory, the trad gear is removable, but unfortunately, sometimes it gets stuck. A much worse scenario (depending on your perspective) is when it is "removed" accidentally by a fall. (This is MUCH more common that a "sport" bolt pulling out) Another interesting thing about trad is that, frankly, since you can climb just about anything, you can climb alot more routes, because until a climb is bolted, (depending on your standards for gear) it is a trad route! This can be pretty fun, as there is tons of great remote trad climbing areas, and after you gain experience, you can go finding trad routes on your own. (Rembember: Know the rock, know your gear, and know your limits!)

Sport: Sport climbs seem to be grouped together in many cases. Maybe a crag has 3, or 10, or 15 sport climbs on it. This is a convenient thing. Sport climbing is a great way to get into the sport of climbing, because to be fully geared up, you need a harness, rope, chalk (maybe), draws, and some good guidance.

DONT FORGET ABOUT ALL THE GREAT MIXED ROUTES! One nice way to get into Trad climbing is to start off with mixed routes...where some of the climb is bolted (because there are no gear placements) and some of it requires gear placements. These can be fun, interesting ways to get used to gear, as the placements are often described in detail in guide books and the beta can be plentiful, as they are often found in or near sport areas. This will help you get into "Trad" with out scaring the piss out of you right off the bat.

Both Trad and Sport are great ways to enjoy the sport!


stevematthys


Dec 28, 2002, 5:58 PM
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trad = expensive rack & greater risk

sport = not as much fun as trad

...they both have their downfalls


easysteve


Jan 7, 2003, 9:04 PM
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I've never clipped into a bolt, b/c there are no bolts where I've climbed.


rprp


Jan 10, 2003, 6:13 PM
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Phylp makes a good point.

Sport climbs are well bolted climbs. The idea being that dangerous falls are not part of the attraction. I suppose that there are a few sport climbs on slabs here and there, but the classic slab climb might have a bolt every 10 feet during the cruxy bits and have some nice 20 to 40+ feet runouts elsewhere. It might be sporty, but its not sport.


curt


Jan 10, 2003, 6:22 PM
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Esteban,

Trad = climbing

Sport = an approximation to climbing

Curt


wonderbread


Jan 10, 2003, 7:24 PM
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Easysteve- I thought you said you went to Smith??? Lots of bolts there eh???

Sport=spandex, tank tops, and cell phones

Trad=oversized glasses, high top climbing shoes, and knickers.


galt


Jan 10, 2003, 7:51 PM
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Sport = Sucks
Trad = Cool...

er... that's wrong

Trad = Sucks
Sport = Cool...

er... I just give up


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