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BillKozbee
Dec 25, 2012, 6:23 AM
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When I am belaying a leader, what is the best course of action when the leader takes out slack to clip but does not make the clip (says take, etc.). I can take back the slack that was given but I can't do anything to take any extra slack. What if they want to climb down? How do I take slack other than just moving away from the wall? There isn't tension in the rope so I can't easily take the slack back.
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theextremist04
Dec 25, 2012, 7:03 AM
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BillKozbee wrote: When I am belaying a leader, what is the best course of action when the leader takes out slack to clip but does not make the clip (says take, etc.). I can take back the slack that was given but I can't do anything to take any extra slack. What if they want to climb down? How do I take slack other than just moving away from the wall? There isn't tension in the rope so I can't easily take the slack back.
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jt512
Dec 25, 2012, 9:40 AM
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Registered: Apr 12, 2001
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BillKozbee wrote: When I am belaying a leader, what is the best course of action when the leader takes out slack to clip but does not make the clip (says take, etc.). I can take back the slack that was given but I can't do anything to take any extra slack. What if they want to climb down? How do I take slack other than just moving away from the wall? There isn't tension in the rope so I can't easily take the slack back.
Just reel in the slack, you know, as if you were fishing.
Jay
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notapplicable
Dec 25, 2012, 8:04 PM
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BillKozbee wrote: When I am belaying a leader, what is the best course of action when the leader takes out slack to clip but does not make the clip (says take, etc.). I can take back the slack that was given but I can't do anything to take any extra slack. What if they want to climb down? How do I take slack other than just moving away from the wall? There isn't tension in the rope so I can't easily take the slack back.
I'm not sure I understand exactly what you are asking. You might want to rephrase the question because the bold sections seem to contradict one another.
What I think you may be asking is - 'How can I take in additional rope beyond the slack that is free and available in the system, in order to shorten the length of a climbers fall.'
If that is the question, generally you do not want to take in slack as the climber falls unless they are in danger of hitting something like the ground or a ledge. Getting slammed in to the wall because your belayer sat down hard or ran backwards is not much fun. Honestly, what your climber asks you to do when they are scared and about to fall may not be whats really best for them. It is your job as the belayer to evaluate the situation but most times you want the dynamic elements of the system to do their job and make the catch comfortable and safe for you and the climber.
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cracklover
Dec 25, 2012, 9:02 PM
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jt512 wrote: BillKozbee wrote: When I am belaying a leader, what is the best course of action when the leader takes out slack to clip but does not make the clip (says take, etc.). I can take back the slack that was given but I can't do anything to take any extra slack. What if they want to climb down? How do I take slack other than just moving away from the wall? There isn't tension in the rope so I can't easily take the slack back. Just reel in the slack, you know, as if you were fishing. Jay
Hey, hey, hey, it's thaaaat easy.
GO
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shotwell
Dec 25, 2012, 9:07 PM
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cracklover wrote: jt512 wrote: BillKozbee wrote: When I am belaying a leader, what is the best course of action when the leader takes out slack to clip but does not make the clip (says take, etc.). I can take back the slack that was given but I can't do anything to take any extra slack. What if they want to climb down? How do I take slack other than just moving away from the wall? There isn't tension in the rope so I can't easily take the slack back. Just reel in the slack, you know, as if you were fishing. Jay Hey, hey, hey, it's thaaaat easy. GO
Sweet Jesus, I now have a great idea for a new belay device.
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cracklover
Dec 26, 2012, 5:04 PM
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shotwell wrote: cracklover wrote: jt512 wrote: BillKozbee wrote: When I am belaying a leader, what is the best course of action when the leader takes out slack to clip but does not make the clip (says take, etc.). I can take back the slack that was given but I can't do anything to take any extra slack. What if they want to climb down? How do I take slack other than just moving away from the wall? There isn't tension in the rope so I can't easily take the slack back. Just reel in the slack, you know, as if you were fishing. Jay Hey, hey, hey, it's thaaaat easy. GO Sweet Jesus, I now have a great idea for a new belay device.
Is Fat Albert involved somehow? If so, I want a cut on the proceeds!
GO
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shotwell
Dec 26, 2012, 5:05 PM
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Registered: Jan 6, 2009
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cracklover wrote: shotwell wrote: cracklover wrote: jt512 wrote: BillKozbee wrote: When I am belaying a leader, what is the best course of action when the leader takes out slack to clip but does not make the clip (says take, etc.). I can take back the slack that was given but I can't do anything to take any extra slack. What if they want to climb down? How do I take slack other than just moving away from the wall? There isn't tension in the rope so I can't easily take the slack back. Just reel in the slack, you know, as if you were fishing. Jay Hey, hey, hey, it's thaaaat easy. GO Sweet Jesus, I now have a great idea for a new belay device. Is Fat Albert involved somehow? If so, I want a cut on the proceeds! GO
Nope. Just keep your eyes on the market for the least commercially viable device ever.
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CrimpyFever
Jan 17, 2013, 3:50 AM
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Registered: Jan 17, 2013
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Just walk away from the wall a few feet while taking in slack, it'll be gone in no time
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