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jacques
Dec 27, 2012, 3:52 PM
Post #27 of 27
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Registered: May 14, 2008
Posts: 318
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Make the difference between trad and sport. 50 years old climber who trad 5.8 or more have in general a lot of experience to see the danger...compare to few years cimber who just see the possibility to have fun at a lower level than in a gym. One of my partner did a route, it was a dangerous 5.6, and say that if he felt it was the fault of the rock. He didn't have the experience to climb on that kind of rock and never saw the evident fracture line in the rock.
At fifty, or close to it, leading sport is a better option. You have all the chalenge of the climb and you can climb harder route in few month. As other people had thought about the safety for you (bolt, rigid sling, etc), you don't have to do some boring exercises essential for only one situation in your life. I had four or five of those situation where I wasn't kill just by "luck", I did the good safety move, that we never have to do or learn in a gym, with a "no chance to take" mind set.
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