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Shabby
Feb 17, 2013, 11:53 PM
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Hey guys, just asking a simple question...
I'm getting a harness for my climbing, but I will be primarily doing indoor and sport climbs.
I am leaning towards the Blackdiamond harness' so what is the best BD harness for my needs?
I have been having a look at the Momentum SA, because I also want to have something that I can use for trad if ever needed.
Cheers,
Shabby
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shotwell
Feb 18, 2013, 2:09 AM
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Shabby wrote: Hey guys, just asking a simple question... I'm getting a harness for my climbing, but I will be primarily doing indoor and sport climbs. I am leaning towards the Blackdiamond harness' so what is the best BD harness for my needs? I have been having a look at the Momentum SA, because I also want to have something that I can use for trad if ever needed. Cheers, Shabby
If it fits, that would be a fine harness. Ideally you'll be able to try it out in store. Being a fairly popular model, you should be able to.
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Shabby
Feb 18, 2013, 2:21 AM
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Thankyou for the reply.
Fortunately the only store in my city has it xD
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bearbreeder
Feb 18, 2013, 2:56 AM
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as said if it fits youll be fine
the momentum lasts a long time ... 5 years and still strong
just replaced it this year with a 20 smackaroo harness 
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acorneau
Feb 20, 2013, 2:18 AM
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Shabby wrote: Fortunately the only store in my city has it xD
My suggestion is to go to said store and try on every harness they have. (By "try on" I mean put it on and hang in it for ~30 seconds fully suspended.)
That should give you a good idea of what harness fits you best. Buy that one.
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Kartessa
Feb 20, 2013, 3:34 AM
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acorneau wrote: Shabby wrote: Fortunately the only store in my city has it xD My suggestion is to go to said store and try on every harness they have. (By "try on" I mean put it on and hang in it for ~30 seconds fully suspended.) That should give you a good idea of what harness fits you best. Buy that one.
You make me hate my job.
9/10 times when you try ONE harness on, it's pretty darn comfortable (as comfy as a harness can be), especially when compared with the seatbelt style rentals you find in most gyms. Nothing wrong with comparing a couple, but if I tried on 22 different pairs of pants, I wouldn't be able to remember how the first one fit versus the last one.
I tell customers to pick and try on a few (3-4), not every one. Where I work, we sell 22 different harnesses in prices ranging from $25 to $135.
A process that I find works most of the time (95% success rate):
1. Pick your favourite colour
2. Try on the harness.
If you find a major issue, like leg loops are too tight or loose, rubbing, pinching, hot spots, poking... then it's not for you, and go back to step 1. There are exceptions to this, like when someone needs a specialized harness, but for the large majority of your "My-first-harness" types out there, this will be fine.
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bearbreeder
Feb 20, 2013, 4:56 AM
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try on every darn harness ... find the best fitting one ...
just like shoes
you have the time and its not like the harnesses are in the back at MEC ... self serve ... besides those NICE MEC employees are there to make their members happy 
its that simple ... again
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Kartessa
Feb 20, 2013, 5:00 AM
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bearbreeder wrote: try on every darn harness ... find the best fitting one ... just like shoes you have the time and its not like the harnesses are in the back at MEC ... self serve ... besides those NICE MEC employees are there to make their members happy its that simple ... again
You seriously try on every pair of shoes?!
More money than brains... More time than sense
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Kartessa
Feb 20, 2013, 5:02 AM
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Kartessa wrote: bearbreeder wrote: try on every darn harness ... find the best fitting one ... just like shoes you have the time and its not like the harnesses are in the back at MEC ... self serve ... besides those NICE MEC employees are there to make their members happy its that simple ... again You seriously try on every pair of shoes?! More money than brains... More time than sense
In a half size up and a half size down, to be sure
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bearbreeder
Feb 20, 2013, 5:05 AM
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Kartessa wrote: You seriously try on every pair of shoes?! More money than brains... More time than sense
how rude of you
i try on EVERY pair of shoe at MEC ... even the womens versions ... to find the one that FITS best
and i buy the ones that fits best for what i wanna do at the price i wanna pay
its that simple ... again
or is there some RC secret your gonna die thing if you try on all the shoes you can 
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Kartessa
Feb 20, 2013, 5:34 AM
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bearbreeder wrote: Kartessa wrote: You seriously try on every pair of shoes?! More money than brains... More time than sense how rude of you i try on EVERY pair of shoe at MEC ... even the womens versions ... to find the one that FITS best and i buy the ones that fits best for what i wanna do at the price i wanna pay its that simple ... again or is there some RC secret your gonna die thing if you try on all the shoes you can
But since when does a beginner know exactly how something should feel and the difference between the dozens of options?
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donnie
Feb 20, 2013, 3:48 PM
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a first harness can last several years, so take the time and find one that will be comfortable for you. There is no rule that says you have to hurry and grab the first one you see. As a beginner, you will probably spend some bit of time hang-doggin on routes, and you'll want to be comfy while you make your belayer work haha. honestly though, take some time, try a few on, hang in them, see what works best for you. most harnesses nowadays are really comfy and work for a multitude of uses and climbing styles, so look at options on the harnesses as well. do you want adjustible leg loops, or the ease of not having to double-back your harness straps, etc. with bd harnesses you have to double back your straps, which isnt a big deal, just another step to remember (or forget...oops). I use the Petzl Adjama, and love it. ive used it for everything from 50 foot sport routes to thousand foot + alpine and gear climbs. it pays to find "the one", so dont be afraid to take some time. it's your money and gear, get what works best and feels best for you.
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donnie
Feb 20, 2013, 3:49 PM
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bearbreeder wrote: Kartessa wrote: You seriously try on every pair of shoes?! More money than brains... More time than sense how rude of you i try on EVERY pair of shoe at MEC ... even the womens versions ... to find the one that FITS best and i buy the ones that fits best for what i wanna do at the price i wanna pay its that simple ... again or is there some RC secret your gonna die thing if you try on all the shoes you can
maybe not RC, could be a secret-ish sales assistant thing though....
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Kartessa
Feb 20, 2013, 4:46 PM
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The OP is looking for an indoor/sport harness.
Its just not that complicated.
You pick one that's pretty, check that it has room for quickdraws, you know how to do it up, put it on and check that the fit is right, hang in it and see that its comfortable.
If everything works on the first try, feel free to try a second one, or even a third for comparison. If you find something better, go for it, and try another one too, just to be sure, but if you're barely noticing a difference, its because these days, harnesses are so similar and padded.
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Kartessa
Feb 20, 2013, 4:48 PM
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donnie wrote: bearbreeder wrote: Kartessa wrote: You seriously try on every pair of shoes?! More money than brains... More time than sense how rude of you i try on EVERY pair of shoe at MEC ... even the womens versions ... to find the one that FITS best and i buy the ones that fits best for what i wanna do at the price i wanna pay its that simple ... again or is there some RC secret your gonna die thing if you try on all the shoes you can maybe not RC, could be a secret-ish sales assistant thing though....
So long as he stays on his coast, I won't cut his rope
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bearbreeder
Feb 20, 2013, 5:03 PM
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Kartessa wrote: The OP is looking for an indoor/sport harness. Its just not that complicated. You pick one that's pretty, check that it has room for quickdraws, you know how to do it up, put it on and check that the fit is right, hang in it and see that its comfortable. If everything works on the first try, feel free to try a second one, or even a third for comparison. If you find something better, go for it, and try another one too, just to be sure, but if you're barely noticing a difference, its because these days, harnesses are so similar and padded.
i tried on every harness at MEC recently ... each one fit different enough for me not to buy it
until i found the best fitting harness at some store ... some 20$ el cheapo apex equator ... which i tested with multiple whippers of course
the edelrid jay gave me squishy ballz syndrome ... in fact i know someone who bought that harness, took a test whipper, sang like a soprano for a week ... and took the harness back to MEC telling the nice lady "it squished my ballz" ... he didnt spend enough time trying on every other harness
its the "newbs" time, and the harnesses are usually kept out from ... so its their time to "waste" ... and its their money
FIT is EVERYTHING
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donnie
Feb 20, 2013, 5:45 PM
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hahahaha
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Kartessa
Feb 20, 2013, 6:26 PM
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bearbreeder wrote: Kartessa wrote: The OP is looking for an indoor/sport harness. Its just not that complicated. You pick one that's pretty, check that it has room for quickdraws, you know how to do it up, put it on and check that the fit is right, hang in it and see that its comfortable. If everything works on the first try, feel free to try a second one, or even a third for comparison. If you find something better, go for it, and try another one too, just to be sure, but if you're barely noticing a difference, its because these days, harnesses are so similar and padded. i tried on every harness at MEC recently ... each one fit different enough for me not to buy it until i found the best fitting harness at some store ... some 20$ el cheapo apex equator ... which i tested with multiple whippers of course the edelrid jay gave me squishy ballz syndrome ... in fact i know someone who bought that harness, took a test whipper, sang like a soprano for a week ... and took the harness back to MEC telling the nice lady "it squished my ballz" ... he didnt spend enough time trying on every other harness its the "newbs" time, and the harnesses are usually kept out from ... so its their time to "waste" ... and its their money FIT is EVERYTHING
I just take whatever I can get for free and live with it... never had a problem beyond a numb ass when hanging for 2+ Hours.
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Kartessa
Feb 20, 2013, 6:35 PM
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bearbreeder wrote: Kartessa wrote: I just take whatever I can get for free and live with it... never had a problem beyond a numb ass when hanging for 2+ Hours. you lack squishy ballz
'Cuz I'm not constantly fellating myself in the corner.
(This post was edited by Kartessa on Feb 20, 2013, 6:36 PM)
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donnie
Feb 20, 2013, 8:46 PM
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Kartessa's been spying on you i see. and he's not fellating himself, he's doing research on alternative grip methods on lowballs and screamer tensile strength when under load...
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Awensrose
Feb 28, 2013, 8:01 PM
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my husband just got the momentum in this week... looks great and he says it comfortable.... we do indoor/gym climbing.....
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tsich21
Feb 28, 2013, 8:10 PM
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The best thing to do is go try them on, and make sure they have a place you can hang on them. I personally like the Mammut harnesses better. I went in planning to buy a BD momentum and found the Mammut Ophir 3 more comfortable.
Go to a real climbing shop, hang around in them and buy the most comfortable one for your body and budget.
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