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piedog98
Mar 13, 2013, 1:33 AM
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Registered: Mar 13, 2013
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I was using black diamond bugaboos on some uncharted rock in the middle of NC, and in the middle of a pitch, my stupid ass took a fall. I was about 3 feet above the last bolt, one I had installed not 5 minutes earlier. It pulls out, and I take a 1.6+ FF fall. When I got down, I looked at the piton, and it had a size able "dent" in the underside. It wasn't there when I hammered it in. Are bugaboos crap or am I just a dumbass?
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FFSchooley
Mar 13, 2013, 5:31 AM
Post #2 of 14
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Registered: Jul 7, 2012
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I would worry less about your piton and more about the fact that the bolt you placed pulled on a 3 foot fall...
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healyje
Mar 13, 2013, 6:09 AM
Post #3 of 14
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Registered: Aug 22, 2004
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"Bugaboos don't kill people, nailers do."
I'm just guessing the crack got a hair wider on the inside so only the entrance was really biting on the pin.
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csproul
Mar 13, 2013, 1:28 PM
Post #4 of 14
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FFSchooley wrote: I would worry less about your piton and more about the fact that the bolt you placed pulled on a 3 foot fall...
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marc801
Mar 13, 2013, 2:52 PM
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piedog98 wrote: I was using black diamond bugaboos on some uncharted rock in the middle of NC, and in the middle of a pitch, my stupid ass took a fall. I was about 3 feet above the last bolt, one I had installed not 5 minutes earlier. It pulls out, and I take a 1.6+ FF fall. When I got down, I looked at the piton, and it had a size able "dent" in the underside. It wasn't there when I hammered it in. Are bugaboos crap or am I just a dumbass?
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stagg54
Mar 13, 2013, 4:57 PM
Post #6 of 14
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Registered: Apr 28, 2005
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marc801 wrote: Bugaboos aren't crap - but your piton and bolt placement skills suck, though.
Agreed on the bolt placement skills, but the piton couldn't have been that bad - it did hold a fall.
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kennoyce
Mar 13, 2013, 4:58 PM
Post #7 of 14
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Registered: Mar 6, 2001
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piedog98 wrote: I was using black diamond bugaboos on some uncharted rock in the middle of NC, and in the middle of a pitch, my stupid ass took a fall. I was about 3 feet above the last bolt, one I had installed not 5 minutes earlier. It pulls out, and I take a 1.6+ FF fall. When I got down, I looked at the piton, and it had a size able "dent" in the underside. It wasn't there when I hammered it in. Are bugaboos crap or am I just a dumbass?
wait, what did the piton have to do with anything? You place a bolt, fall, pull the bolt, then there is some random piton with a dent in it. where did the piton come from, is it what ended up catching your fall or what?
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acorneau
Mar 13, 2013, 5:24 PM
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My guess is when he said the "bolt pulled out" he meant the piton pulled out.
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piedog98
Mar 13, 2013, 6:40 PM
Post #9 of 14
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Registered: Mar 13, 2013
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Now that I'm looking at it, it was a poor placement. I could see it pulling (which it did), due to the placement, but I still wonder why the piton had a size able dent in it.
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shimanilami
Mar 13, 2013, 6:46 PM
Post #10 of 14
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Registered: Jul 24, 2006
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My guess would be that the rock did it. Or your hammer. It's hard to say.
Were you wearing protective glasses? Just sayin' ...
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olderic
Mar 13, 2013, 6:54 PM
Post #11 of 14
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Registered: Oct 17, 2003
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Do you know the difference betwen a piton and a bolt?
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6pacfershur
Mar 15, 2013, 12:20 AM
Post #12 of 14
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Registered: Jun 23, 2010
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you've got to ask yourself one question....'do I feel lucky?'....well????
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jeepnphreak
Mar 15, 2013, 9:56 PM
Post #13 of 14
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Registered: Jul 29, 2008
Posts: 1259
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do ya punk?
(This post was edited by jeepnphreak on Mar 15, 2013, 9:57 PM)
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onceahardman
Mar 15, 2013, 10:55 PM
Post #14 of 14
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Registered: Aug 3, 2007
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piedog98 wrote: I was using black diamond bugaboos on some uncharted rock in the middle of NC, and in the middle of a pitch, my stupid ass took a fall. I was about 3 feet above the last bolt, one I had installed not 5 minutes earlier. It pulls out, and I take a 1.6+ FF fall. When I got down, I looked at the piton, and it had a size able "dent" in the underside. It wasn't there when I hammered it in. Are bugaboos crap or am I just a dumbass?
There are no bad new pitons.
There are, however, bad placements. The pin tried to hold, as evidenced by the dent. You probably didn't have enough contact with the rock, or the placement was bottomed, or both.
So, you haven't answered, and it appears you are somehow conflating "piton" with "bolt".
Also, I think I need to call shenanigans on the claim of a FF 1.6+ fall. Did the pulled pin cause you to fall directly onto the belay?
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