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atomicjuice
Apr 23, 2013, 2:22 PM
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Hello, I'm a pretty new to climbing but I'm in the Navy and go on deployments for months at a time without access to any rock or a climbing wall to train on. How could I use a hangboard, rock rings, and a weight gym to improve my climbing for when I get back?
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lena_chita
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Apr 23, 2013, 3:26 PM
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If you are new to climbing, you are screwed without access to the climbing wall or rock, because there is nothing in a regular weight gym that would let you practice the movement skills. Sorry...
Disclaimer: using a hangboard will put a lot of stress on your fingers, elbows and shoulders and can lead to injury unless you are really, really careful, take things slowly, and keep a good form throughout the workout. And getting your fingers stronger is really not going to help you that much, if your technique sucks, which it probably does, being a new climber.
But the link below is a good article on how to use the hangboard. It was written several years ago by Mike Anderson, aka rockprodigy. I believe he has been refining his approach since then, but this is a start to give you a general idea...
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...ockprodigy__258.html
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climb4free
Apr 23, 2013, 3:51 PM
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lena_chita wrote: If you are new to climbing, you are screwed without access to the climbing wall or rock, because there is nothing in a regular weight gym that would let you practice the movement skills. Sorry... Disclaimer: using a hangboard will put a lot of stress on your fingers, elbows and shoulders and can lead to injury unless you are really, really careful, take things slowly, and keep a good form throughout the workout. And getting your fingers stronger is really not going to help you that much, if your technique sucks, which it probably does, being a new climber. But the link below is a good article on how to use the hangboard. It was written several years ago by Mike Anderson, aka rockprodigy. I believe he has been refining his approach since then, but this is a start to give you a general idea... http://www.rockclimbing.com/...ockprodigy__258.html
Everything Lena said is spot on. I would say... get psyched on climbing mentally through watching videos, stay in good general fitness (i.e. lean & mean), and take advantage of every rock/gym outing you can get.
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maowcakes
Apr 23, 2013, 9:10 PM
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Many people can benefit from being in generally better fitness. I have been following the "Building a better climber" routine that Rock and Ice has been putting out. While it certainly involves climbing, the first four weeks are general conditioning. This is a good place to start until you can get out and move on the rocks.
Cheers 
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kiwiprincess
Apr 23, 2013, 11:55 PM
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I find the Hang board to hard for me and as a begginner don't go over board. I mainly do pull ups off big holds, Hangs on small, and some core exercises from different positions.
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atomicjuice
Apr 24, 2013, 8:38 AM
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I appreciate your advice, but it sucks that there is little I can do to improve my climbing without actually climbing right now. I have a few books on technique I plan to read to at least develop the right theories. I have read that hangboards can be dangerous if used incorrectly and will use them lightly. Apart from increasing my general fitness, is there any specific exercise or area to focus on that you would recommend? I heard the core is important.
Thanks a lot!
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viciado
Apr 24, 2013, 10:35 AM
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lena_chita wrote: If you are new to climbing, you are screwed without access to the climbing wall or rock, because there is nothing in a regular weight gym that would let you practice the movement skills. Sorry...
I agree with this, BUT there are some Brits who would disagree...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9U0tDU37q2M
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lena_chita
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Apr 24, 2013, 5:40 PM
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atomicjuice wrote: I appreciate your advice, but it sucks that there is little I can do to improve my climbing without actually climbing right now. I have a few books on technique I plan to read to at least develop the right theories. I have read that hangboards can be dangerous if used incorrectly and will use them lightly. Apart from increasing my general fitness, is there any specific exercise or area to focus on that you would recommend? I heard the core is important. Thanks a lot!
Sure, core is important, but... search the forums for previous debates about various "core" workouts. It has been rehashed many times.
Sure, general conditioning is good. I consider "core workouts" to fall under category of general conditioning, so yeah, sure, go ahead and do them.
Make front lever your goal, see how far you'll get towards that goal in a few months. Work on your flexibility and balance. Do yoga, if it isn't against the Navy behavior code.  Put up a slackline -- I bet you could get a few people to do it with you, it is a fun way to kill some time.
All of the above are only marginally transferable into climbing ability, if at all. But, they are all better than sitting in front of a computer and eating chips during your off time.
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namoclimber
Apr 24, 2013, 11:49 PM
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Find yourself a good playground, like at a school or park and make up some endurance and strength workouts with what you have to work with. It easy to get caught up in thinking you need rock specific training to improve your climbing skills when kids are doing it every day on the play ground.
For finger strength a hang board for some dead hangs is all you really need.
Then when you get outside the strength and fitness you have built will work its way into your climbing.
Have fun too.
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