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AamClimber
Apr 29, 2013, 3:03 PM
Post #1 of 4
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Registered: Jan 16, 2011
Posts: 14
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Hi guys!
I need suggestions on what kind of exercise I can do at a normal gym as the nearest climbing gym is an hour away from where I live. I have had no kind of training of any kind for climbing for the past few months and well, I'm feeling bad.
Can someone suggest a workout routine I can follow so I can somewhat stay in shape for climbing? It'll be a huge help. At my peak, I was able to send some tougher 5.11s but now, I cannot do overhanging 11s and even 10s so thats got me bummed out.
Thanks alot!
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5.samadhi
Apr 29, 2013, 3:58 PM
Post #2 of 4
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Registered: Jul 31, 2011
Posts: 98
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1) improve your strength to weight ratio through cardio
2) hangboard with assistance from a loop of webbing or a band that you can take some of your weight off with
3) yoga
4) crossfit
5) some specific lifts like rear delt raise, lateral raise, BB row may help you hold on to climbing specific muscles while you cut weight
At that level though its all about technique pretty much. Its really hard to grasp at that level that its your technique that needs improving because introspectively you think "well I fell off the route because I got pumped". Thats true, but that only happened because your technique was off (overgripping, not turning your body into the rock the right way, not using enough strength from core/legs, etc etc etc).
Please do not take any offense to this post...I was at the 5.10/5.11 level for a long while and now after a layoff I am back there again. There are a lot of amazing 5.10 routes outdoors by the way 
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rgbscan
Apr 29, 2013, 4:04 PM
Post #3 of 4
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Registered: Dec 8, 2003
Posts: 106
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Pull ups are always good. Seated Forearm Raises can help. Farmer's Carries can help with grip strength.
I agree with the other poster that cardio is a good thing. Shedding fat in general is a big help towards building a climbing body.
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lena_chita
Moderator
Apr 30, 2013, 2:02 PM
Post #4 of 4
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Registered: Jun 27, 2006
Posts: 6087
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Where is your nearest climbable rock, and how often CAN you make it to the rock climbing gym that is 1 hr away?
Sure, the drive sucks. but it is not exactly unheard of. I know quite a few people who drive an hour to go to a climbing gym. They don't go as often as they might have, otherwise, and quite a few of them have a small home gym/training woody, but there is a reason why they end up still going to the climbing gym as much as possible.
Even if you go twice a week... heck, even once a week, it would be worth it.
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