I sound like a broken record I think. I did six studies of a street here in Curitiba and all turned out reasonably OK. the idea was to work with colors to set up a good mix. I can't repeat what I did in the past, but I can follow ideas and emotions pretty well.

But then I went and fucked up the composition when I put it on canvas. what I was hoping would turn out to be a week-long project is looking like at least a month now.

the left side is damn near perfect. so good that I'm thinking of leaving some windows off a building because I think it looks damn good as a blank wall.

the right right side is wildly inconsistent and unbalanced. I had to let it sit for a week while I just dabbed at it here and there trying to work out how to fix it. I was worried that I could fix it but that it wouldn't be good at the same time (if that makes sense). I feared that I had ruined it from the outset.

But now it's coming around a bit. Turns out a good painting is hard work.

what the fuck is this, the coffee shop? god no, please god no.

I am sitting in a starbucks on a macbook, sipping "fairly traded" coffee... like a fucking hipster...

Might as well be the coffee shop

I have serious doubts about SB's claim that they deal with fair trade coffee. As in, if you doubt me, (and I hate coffee, but I'm sure I know what the answer will be), ask starbucks if you can get an organic-fair trade coffee. Tell me what they say. I expect to hear one of the two: 1) not together and / or; 2) we just ran out.

In other words, there's an odd trend that they never seem to have it available, and you can't get fair trade and organic together. So you either have to choose between chemicals or slave wages.

(and yes, organic and fair trade need to be linked, because both are linked to sustainability)

This is part of the reason I hate the whole coffee culture in the same way I hate the golf culture: both fucking reek with pretentiousness.

And then there's this

But they give me free refills and wifi...

Are you going to be able to finish it?

The schedule will be tight, but I think so. I will be borrowing a drill on Tuesday; should be able to pop in 3-4 bolts and do a final scrubbing that night.

I am thinking that the multiple cruxes are strenuous enough that I won't have it in me following the bolting, so that will leave Wed - Fri to send. I can hike the first two .10a cruxes, and the second one may only be .9+ after the next scrub. There is still one move on the third crux I can't get, I'm thinking .10b/c when I am fresh, but could very easily be .11. Long reach to a slopey ledge, then left foot way out left to a hold at hip height and press up over it off of the slopey ledge. My shoulder is still a bit tweaked, so that will be the big determining factor. From the LH foothold you get a high right foot on the slopey ledge and use a marble sized crystal to pull your weight over that and stand up.

The climbing is so good we think it will be an instant classic, so we ran a TR lap to determine the best spot for the bolts. I wouldn't have enough time to project it as a R/X trad lead, and if I did no one would get on it, so we opted to make it a mixed trad (bomber cams) and bolt route.*

This way (waxing philosophical here) it will be a testament in stone for future generations. I bled all over it on the TR run, so the alternate name may be "Bloody Violins" since it is next door to "Gentle Violence" 5.11+ which I still haven't sent; I am so very close though.

*NA shits pants in despair.

I wouldn't worry about adding bolts. There's a strong tradition to adding appropriate bolts in NH. As long as you're not Rumneyating it I don't think there'll be much objection.

The thing I worry about is if the Rumney crowd gets to it.

I wouldn't worry about adding bolts. There's a strong tradition to adding appropriate bolts in NH. As long as you're not Rumneyating it I don't think there'll be much objection.

The thing I worry about is if the Rumney crowd gets to it.

Nah, there's also a strong tradition in NH about respecting the ethics of the individual crags. We have already plucked the majority of independent lines, and 99% of the routes have good natural gear, the bolts are largely meant to augment and prevent the R ratings. There are a good number of those as well, but generally speaking the best routes get enough bolts to make them accessible to the masses.

The new route is 150' long, so even if I go with the 4 bolts it's definitely not sport.

... they may...

Rumor has it that the place is falling down. again. *tongue-in-cheek

What's the route on the west side of Whitehorse that has something like four bolts protecting a 90ft pitch...and that's it? There's a dike leading to a step left...can't remember. It's in between the standard slabs and inferno area.

Children's Crusade 5.9

I am sitting in a starbucks on a macbook, sipping "fairly traded" coffee... like a fucking hipster...

Might as well be the coffee shop

I just found out the other day that Yuppie stands for Young Urban Professional. Who knew?