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skiclimb
May 27, 2013, 4:43 AM
Post #26 of 36
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Registered: Jan 11, 2004
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jeez I just thread my rope through the hanger and rap off when I am that hard up for a biner.
(This post was edited by skiclimb on May 27, 2013, 4:45 AM)
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marc801
May 27, 2013, 2:56 PM
Post #27 of 36
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skiclimb wrote: jeez I just thread my rope through the hanger and rap off when I am that hard up for a biner.
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csproul
May 27, 2013, 8:42 PM
Post #28 of 36
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Registered: Jun 4, 2004
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marc801 wrote: skiclimb wrote: jeez I just thread my rope through the hanger and rap off when I am that hard up for a biner. And there are thousands of bolts where the friction would prevent you from pulling the rope down. Good way to trash a rope as well.
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marc801
May 27, 2013, 9:02 PM
Post #29 of 36
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csproul wrote: Can you even fit a rope and a biner (got to stay clipped into something, right?!) into an average hanger?
Perhaps skiclimb only climbs in areas where they use the big, honking glue-ins, which would likely have both enough space and are smooth enough to allow a pull-down.
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doktor_g
May 28, 2013, 7:54 PM
Post #30 of 36
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Registered: Oct 14, 2003
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skiclimb wrote: jeez I just thread my rope through the hanger and rap off when I am that hard up for a biner.
Quick way to meet your doom. This is joke (I hope). Skiclimb seems to be a wall veteran but zchandran isn't. Skiclimb is kidding. Don't do this, please. Just leave a biner. It costs as much as a McDonalds burger... and healthier
DrG
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dynosore
May 28, 2013, 8:21 PM
Post #31 of 36
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Registered: Jul 29, 2004
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How much do you spend on gas and food each time you go out? You're worried about a $5 biner? Consider it tuition. Even a sport rack, rope, shoes, and harness are going to set you back $500 easy. If you're not willing to spend 1% of that so you don't clog up a route with cheap quicklinks, or worse crater trying to get cute to save a biner, might I suggest a different hobby?
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zchandran
May 28, 2013, 8:56 PM
Post #32 of 36
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Registered: Aug 11, 2008
Posts: 120
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dynosore wrote: How much do you spend on gas and food each time you go out? You're worried about a $5 biner? Consider it tuition. Even a sport rack, rope, shoes, and harness are going to set you back $500 easy. If you're not willing to spend 1% of that so you don't clog up a route with cheap quicklinks, or worse crater trying to get cute to save a biner, might I suggest a different hobby?
I've been leaving bail biners for years, so a better way to phrase this would have been:
"What gear would an experienced aid climber use in order to avoid leaving a bail biner?"
I'm not as worried about bail biners as I am about, say, a linkcam. I miss out on trying a lot of crack climbs just because I don't want to leave a cam if I have to bail. I figure the same technique would work there as well.
Bottom line - I think the answer is that I need to learn basic aid climbing before considering anything else. When I think about it, on a lot of these routes it would be easier to aid upclimb to the anchors, rather than aid downclimb. I just splurged on some basic aid gear such as two etriers, a foot loop, and fifi hook. I'm going to start working on some A0 and A1 sections this season, and take it from there.
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csproul
May 28, 2013, 9:57 PM
Post #33 of 36
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Registered: Jun 4, 2004
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zchandran wrote: dynosore wrote: How much do you spend on gas and food each time you go out? You're worried about a $5 biner? Consider it tuition. Even a sport rack, rope, shoes, and harness are going to set you back $500 easy. If you're not willing to spend 1% of that so you don't clog up a route with cheap quicklinks, or worse crater trying to get cute to save a biner, might I suggest a different hobby? I've been leaving bail biners for years, so a better way to phrase this would have been: "What gear would an experienced aid climber use in order to avoid leaving a bail biner?" I'm not as worried about bail biners as I am about, say, a linkcam. I miss out on trying a lot of crack climbs just because I don't want to leave a cam if I have to bail. I figure the same technique would work there as well. Bottom line - I think the answer is that I need to learn basic aid climbing before considering anything else. When I think about it, on a lot of these routes it would be easier to aid upclimb to the anchors, rather than aid downclimb. I just splurged on some basic aid gear such as two etriers, a foot loop, and fifi hook. I'm going to start working on some A0 and A1 sections this season, and take it from there.
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doktor_g
May 28, 2013, 10:29 PM
Post #34 of 36
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Registered: Oct 14, 2003
Posts: 152
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seriously?
I'm an experienced aid climber. 4+ el cap ascents. other valley walls. several wall bails. a handful of rescues....
If I bail, I use a bail biner.... end of story. If I bail on an alpine climb I build an anchor (sometimes with cams) and say f^ck it. My life is worth more than a cam... or a biner... or my buddy's cam (especially my buddy's cam). Lol.
Now go by some aiders and come to the dark side! Bring extra biners...
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hyhuu
May 29, 2013, 4:09 PM
Post #35 of 36
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Registered: Jul 25, 2001
Posts: 492
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Bring a ropegun. Buy him/her a beer occasionally.
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5.samadhi
May 29, 2013, 6:58 PM
Post #36 of 36
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Registered: Jul 31, 2011
Posts: 98
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oh man just leave a bail biner, whats the big deal? Do you routinely try routes that you can't even hang your way up? If so maybe you should rethink what routes you are jumping on???
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