Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Big Wall and Aid Climbing:
Aid downclimbing to avoid bail biners?
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Big Wall and Aid Climbing

Premier Sponsor:

 
First page Previous page 1 2 Next page Last page  View All


skiclimb


May 26, 2013, 9:43 PM
Post #26 of 36 (4999 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 11, 2004
Posts: 1938

Re: [zchandran] Aid downclimbing to avoid bail biners? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (4 ratings)  
Can't Post

jeez I just thread my rope through the hanger and rap off when I am that hard up for a biner.


(This post was edited by skiclimb on May 26, 2013, 9:45 PM)


marc801


May 27, 2013, 7:56 AM
Post #27 of 36 (4968 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 1, 2005
Posts: 2806

Re: [skiclimb] Aid downclimbing to avoid bail biners? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (2 ratings)  
Can't Post

skiclimb wrote:
jeez I just thread my rope through the hanger and rap off when I am that hard up for a biner.
And there are thousands of bolts where the friction would prevent you from pulling the rope down. Good way to trash a rope as well.


csproul


May 27, 2013, 1:42 PM
Post #28 of 36 (4954 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 4, 2004
Posts: 1769

Re: [marc801] Aid downclimbing to avoid bail biners? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

marc801 wrote:
skiclimb wrote:
jeez I just thread my rope through the hanger and rap off when I am that hard up for a biner.
And there are thousands of bolts where the friction would prevent you from pulling the rope down. Good way to trash a rope as well.
Can you even fit a rope and a biner (got to stay clipped into something, right?!) into an average hanger?


marc801


May 27, 2013, 2:02 PM
Post #29 of 36 (4949 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 1, 2005
Posts: 2806

Re: [csproul] Aid downclimbing to avoid bail biners? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

csproul wrote:
Can you even fit a rope and a biner (got to stay clipped into something, right?!) into an average hanger?
Maybe, marginally, with a thin enough cord and tiny enough biner....but probably not.

Perhaps skiclimb only climbs in areas where they use the big, honking glue-ins, which would likely have both enough space and are smooth enough to allow a pull-down.


doktor_g


May 28, 2013, 12:54 PM
Post #30 of 36 (4907 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 14, 2003
Posts: 152

Re: [skiclimb] Aid downclimbing to avoid bail biners? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

skiclimb wrote:
jeez I just thread my rope through the hanger and rap off when I am that hard up for a biner.

Quick way to meet your doom. This is joke (I hope). Skiclimb seems to be a wall veteran but zchandran isn't. Skiclimb is kidding. Don't do this, please. Just leave a biner. It costs as much as a McDonalds burger... and healthier

DrG


dynosore


May 28, 2013, 1:21 PM
Post #31 of 36 (4900 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 29, 2004
Posts: 1768

Re: [zchandran] Aid downclimbing to avoid bail biners? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

How much do you spend on gas and food each time you go out? You're worried about a $5 biner? Consider it tuition. Even a sport rack, rope, shoes, and harness are going to set you back $500 easy. If you're not willing to spend 1% of that so you don't clog up a route with cheap quicklinks, or worse crater trying to get cute to save a biner, might I suggest a different hobby?


zchandran


May 28, 2013, 1:56 PM
Post #32 of 36 (4886 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 11, 2008
Posts: 120

Re: [dynosore] Aid downclimbing to avoid bail biners? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

dynosore wrote:
How much do you spend on gas and food each time you go out? You're worried about a $5 biner? Consider it tuition. Even a sport rack, rope, shoes, and harness are going to set you back $500 easy. If you're not willing to spend 1% of that so you don't clog up a route with cheap quicklinks, or worse crater trying to get cute to save a biner, might I suggest a different hobby?

I've been leaving bail biners for years, so a better way to phrase this would have been:

"What gear would an experienced aid climber use in order to avoid leaving a bail biner?"

I'm not as worried about bail biners as I am about, say, a linkcam. I miss out on trying a lot of crack climbs just because I don't want to leave a cam if I have to bail. I figure the same technique would work there as well.

Bottom line - I think the answer is that I need to learn basic aid climbing before considering anything else. When I think about it, on a lot of these routes it would be easier to aid upclimb to the anchors, rather than aid downclimb. I just splurged on some basic aid gear such as two etriers, a foot loop, and fifi hook. I'm going to start working on some A0 and A1 sections this season, and take it from there.


csproul


May 28, 2013, 2:57 PM
Post #33 of 36 (4877 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 4, 2004
Posts: 1769

Re: [zchandran] Aid downclimbing to avoid bail biners? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

zchandran wrote:
dynosore wrote:
How much do you spend on gas and food each time you go out? You're worried about a $5 biner? Consider it tuition. Even a sport rack, rope, shoes, and harness are going to set you back $500 easy. If you're not willing to spend 1% of that so you don't clog up a route with cheap quicklinks, or worse crater trying to get cute to save a biner, might I suggest a different hobby?

I've been leaving bail biners for years, so a better way to phrase this would have been:

"What gear would an experienced aid climber use in order to avoid leaving a bail biner?"

I'm not as worried about bail biners as I am about, say, a linkcam. I miss out on trying a lot of crack climbs just because I don't want to leave a cam if I have to bail. I figure the same technique would work there as well.

Bottom line - I think the answer is that I need to learn basic aid climbing before considering anything else. When I think about it, on a lot of these routes it would be easier to aid upclimb to the anchors, rather than aid downclimb. I just splurged on some basic aid gear such as two etriers, a foot loop, and fifi hook. I'm going to start working on some A0 and A1 sections this season, and take it from there.
Are you going to have all that shit with you every time you try a crack climb that is hard for you? No, of course not! Learn to aid through short sections of climbing by using what you have on hand; your climbing gear and a few slings and some draws. Stand in slings, or tie a double sling in the middle for a two-step aider. Use a quickdraw for a fifi if you need one (you usually don't). No need to go buy aiders, a foot loop (whatever that is) and a fifi just to learn to aid enough to get you through free climbs that are too hard for you.


doktor_g


May 28, 2013, 3:29 PM
Post #34 of 36 (4869 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 14, 2003
Posts: 152

Re: [csproul] Aid downclimbing to avoid bail biners? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

seriously?
I'm an experienced aid climber. 4+ el cap ascents. other valley walls. several wall bails. a handful of rescues....

If I bail, I use a bail biner.... end of story. If I bail on an alpine climb I build an anchor (sometimes with cams) and say f^ck it. My life is worth more than a cam... or a biner... or my buddy's cam (especially my buddy's cam). Lol.

Now go by some aiders and come to the dark side! Bring extra biners...


hyhuu


May 29, 2013, 9:09 AM
Post #35 of 36 (4821 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 25, 2001
Posts: 492

Re: [zchandran] Aid downclimbing to avoid bail biners? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

Bring a ropegun. Buy him/her a beer occasionally.


5.samadhi


May 29, 2013, 11:58 AM
Post #36 of 36 (4798 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 31, 2011
Posts: 98

Re: [hyhuu] Aid downclimbing to avoid bail biners? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

oh man just leave a bail biner, whats the big deal? Do you routinely try routes that you can't even hang your way up? If so maybe you should rethink what routes you are jumping on???

First page Previous page 1 2 Next page Last page  View All

Forums : Climbing Disciplines : Big Wall and Aid Climbing

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook