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socrats
May 27, 2013, 4:08 AM
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Registered: May 27, 2013
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Went to an indoor gym for the first time and had a lot of fun.
What's the best way to deal with those half round ball type holds.
Can't seem to get a grip on them so maybe they are just for your feet or I could possibly use them to launch myself to another hold with my hand. Definitely can't maintain a grip on them with my hand for long.
Lats and forearms are sore today. good workout and fun :)
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squeaka
May 27, 2013, 10:35 AM
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Registered: Sep 28, 2005
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socrats wrote: Went to an indoor gym for the first time and had a lot of fun. What's the best way to deal with those half round ball type holds. Can't seem to get a grip on them so maybe they are just for your feet or I could possibly use them to launch myself to another hold with my hand. Definitely can't maintain a grip on them with my hand for long. Lats and forearms are sore today. good workout and fun :)
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Marylandclimber
May 27, 2013, 3:22 PM
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Registered: Sep 3, 2011
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There slopers, you need to palm them with your whole hand which can be hard so you need to develop open hand strength.
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MarkMyWords
May 27, 2013, 9:55 PM
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Considering that, in the gym almost all holds project away from the wall, what you might consider is working your thumb hard on slopers, or "pinching" them. Your thumb has a lot more power in it than you might expect, so use it to your advantage.
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JAB
May 28, 2013, 9:59 AM
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Registered: Apr 26, 2007
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Two points:
* The easiest way is to try to use the sloper as a sidepull, which requires much less force on your hand.
* If it is not possible to use it as a sidepull, try to place yourself as much directly under the hold as possible.
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camhead
May 28, 2013, 2:38 PM
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Registered: Sep 10, 2001
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Look for little divots or edges that you might be able to crimp on sloping holds. Brush them. Chalk them. Only climb them in cold, low humidity. Learn to use balance, shoulder, and core strength. Work on your feet. Generally, the lower you keep your feet, the more you can make use of a sloper. Heelhooks, toehooks, bicycles, and any other footwork that is not simply toeing in can make slopers more secure, too.
Oh, and this exercise might make slopers feel better. Vimeo does not allow linking to a specific time, but go to the 2 minute mark. Or just watch the whole video, it will make you feel WEAK:
http://vimeo.com/66473915
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sbaclimber
May 28, 2013, 7:12 PM
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Registered: Jan 22, 2004
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Holy hell!! 
I started feeling weak at exaclty 0:20...and just continued to feel weaker and weaker for the duration of that video. 
I have always known that I was weak, but that guy is a mutant!
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hyhuu
May 29, 2013, 4:27 PM
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Registered: Jul 25, 2001
Posts: 492
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I need some ibuprofen from just watching that video. My tendons are sore.
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