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cracklover
Jun 7, 2013, 3:15 PM
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edge wrote: by Saturday evening we should be hitting northern New Mexico where we hope to spend a bit of time and get in some more routes if I can scrounge up a partner.
I won't be able to join you, but if you're in the mood for a little bolt-clipping fun, I strongly recommend checking out El Rito. The guidebook is available online (just stop somewhere in your travels where you can print it out). It's got some altitude, so it'll be cooler than some other places, and it's just really interesting. I understand it's like Maple Canyon's little brother.
Small place - you could climb 1/2 the three star routes in a motivated long weekend. Steep cobblestone climbing, in a very pretty area, with plenty of (free) camping.
Cheers,
GO
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billl7
Jun 7, 2013, 3:42 PM
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You can probably successfully troll for a belay at El Rito's sport area - it's a popular place. Or troll for someone to head up to the less popular trad cliff for some easy one/two pitch trad.
Bill L
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iron106
Jun 7, 2013, 3:56 PM
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Hopefully it is just a bad thermostat and not a leak or a water pump.
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notapplicable
Jun 7, 2013, 7:27 PM
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I can confirm that Edge is indeed a wild ride. Don't miss out!
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curt
Jun 8, 2013, 12:28 AM
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camhead wrote: notapplicable wrote: I can confirm that Edge is indeed a wild ride. Don't miss out! Oh, and NA, next time you're at the NRG, stop by the AAC camp and say hey.
Congrats on landing that gig :-)
Curt
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notapplicable
Jun 8, 2013, 12:36 AM
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camhead wrote: notapplicable wrote: I can confirm that Edge is indeed a wild ride. Don't miss out! Oh, and NA, next time you're at the NRG, stop by the AAC camp and say hey.
Will do. Been there like three of the last five weekends. Didn't see anyone resembling a camhead though...
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camhead
Jun 8, 2013, 1:02 AM
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notapplicable wrote: camhead wrote: notapplicable wrote: I can confirm that Edge is indeed a wild ride. Don't miss out! Oh, and NA, next time you're at the NRG, stop by the AAC camp and say hey. Will do. Been there like three of the last five weekends. Didn't see anyone resembling a camhead though...
Well, pretty soon I'll be demanding money from you at the camp, hehe. Look for an old red Toyota Tacoma.
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edge
Jun 8, 2013, 11:46 AM
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camhead wrote: notapplicable wrote: camhead wrote: notapplicable wrote: I can confirm that Edge is indeed a wild ride. Don't miss out! Oh, and NA, next time you're at the NRG, stop by the AAC camp and say hey. Will do. Been there like three of the last five weekends. Didn't see anyone resembling a camhead though... Well, pretty soon I'll be demanding money from you at the camp, hehe. Look for an old red Toyota Tacoma.
Cammy will tell you that he's avoiding carbs, but he'll eat your pasta salad if you're not careful.
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edge
Jun 8, 2013, 11:57 AM
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Today we drive from OKC to eastern NM, overnighting at the Ute Lake State Park then on tomorrow (Sunday) for several days around Albuquerque/Santa Fe. If anyone wants to hook up for a day of climbing early next week, let me know.
Gabe, thanks for the El Rito recommendation, Meg is meeting us Wednesday night and we should be able to stop there or at Tres Piedras which is also supposed to be good climbing and more my style (trad.)
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edge
Jun 8, 2013, 12:06 PM
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Bill, that was really helpful, thank you! I think we will probably focus later on the Jimez area instead and eventually the Rte 550 corridor. Any must see stops there that are less climbing oriented and more wife & dog friendly?
Cheers.
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billl7
Jun 8, 2013, 2:17 PM
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edge wrote: I think we will probably focus later on the Jimez area instead ....
Of course the best for summer is to stay in the higher elevations. I'm not much help with that, in part due to the advisory below but also in that I just don't get up there much. Hoping others will chime in.
Highway 4 runs through the Jemez Mountains / Santa Fe National Forest. Today, I found this advisory on the SFNF page today:
Please limit activity and travel on Highway 4 from Jemez Springs to Los Alamos and Highway 126 to Cuba due to heavy fire traffic in and around the Thompson Ridge Fire.
No doubt, there are closures around the actual fire. Also, Stage II fire restrictions are in effect for SFNF which basically limits one to gas stoves, lanterns, propane grills, etc.. Generators are okay within an RV.
One possibility is Gilman Tunnels area where there is climbing. Probably want to get there by skirting the Jemez to the south through / near San Ysidro? According to the main MP.com page: "...summertime temperatures can be hot! Mornings are nice on the west facing walls. During the afternoon one can jump in the river to cool off, then climb on the east facing walls later during the afternoon."
Also, past the old tunnels, pull over somewhere and scramble up the hillside on the other side of the river to find some rock panels with very cool petroglyphs - kind of a "don't disturb" thing but enjoyable to view (my wife and I have been up there; dog might be ok). Not shady so probably best in the AM. Might find some fossilized coral along the way.
Might be dispersed camping up the road from the tunnels although I have no experience with it. Don't know about places for trailers.
That pretty well covers / limits my knowledge about the Jemez area for climbing or wife & dog friendly areas and not all that high in elevation at that! I'm hoping someone with more experience with the area will chime in and help with avoiding the heat.
edge wrote: and eventually the Rte 550 corridor. Any must see stops there that are less climbing oriented and more wife & dog friendly?
The only thing I've done recreationally along the 550 corridor is to climb Cabezon Peak - class 3/4 so not for dogs. My wife and I backpacked up and slept overnight on top one time under a full moon. I took a rope and was glad I had it as it was pretty challenging for her carrying minimal overnight stuff. But he shadow-views in the evening and morning were outstanding.
Imagine spending the night up there is not an option for you unless up for scrambling while somehow packing the dog and gear. And it's hot during the PM. But it might be an option to drive in late, camp in the parking spot (can't remember if the road / parking area are trailer friendly - maybe - we were in a Chevy Astro 2WD and had no problem), make an at-dawn scramble up it and be back down before the sun is high and the dog gets terribly worried? Sorry - probably not a kindly suggestion for the dog.
Not a whole lot of help here. But fun to remember these things. :-)
Bill L
(This post was edited by billl7 on Jun 8, 2013, 2:59 PM)
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Gmburns2000
Jun 8, 2013, 4:47 PM
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get yourself into TV viewing range, too starting next week eh?
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edge
Jun 9, 2013, 11:02 PM
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Bill, thank you, this is all super helpful! My daughter joins us on Wed night, so Gilman Tunnel area sounds like it might work. She will enjoy the bolts, I will tolerate them like I am this heat wave...
We are currently in Bernalillo, so tomorrow we will probably kick around Old Town ABQ. Looking to head out soon for The Range Cafe for some legendary SW cuisine then retreat to the comfort of some AC in the camper and catch up on some much needed R&R after the long drive. It's beginning to look like I will have to track down a Toyota dealer to find the cause of the constant overheating problem towing up hills before we commit too much to the mountains and back of beyond.
Cheers!
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billcoe_
Jun 10, 2013, 7:12 PM
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Awesome to read this Edge, I'm going to sit back and live vicariously through you on your travels. Thanks for sharing it, it's a big step to head out onto a new path, but usually worth it times 5.
Good luck is all I'll add as I know you'll have fun.
Oh, btw, I need to add to the discussion above. Las Vegas isn't just Red Rocks, they have some of the most perfect limestone cliffs nearby at Mt Charleston (NW of the city, not far, good roads). AND, this is big, as they are at the 8,000' level and the various cliffs are facing different directions, when the temp hits 90 in Red Rocks, you can find a cliff that will be too cool to not wear a coat at up high.
In fact, last time I was there it was late May, it did hit over 90 in Vegas and we headed up and specifically chose a south facing cliff (we live in the rain and wanted the sun) thinking we'd quit early when it got too hot, and it only warmed up to @ 70. Except for the fact that it's 95% bolt clipping and no real (gear) routes, it was perfect. Short approaches too. There was still snow up there, all kinds of people inner tubing on it, so bring a coat. Real nice restaurant on the road nearby to go afterwards to Steak out at if you have a few extra nickles.
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