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keith_b00ne
Jul 26, 2013, 5:54 PM
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Registered: Sep 15, 2004
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I have been climbing a lot more alpine and multipitch routes that require two ropes for decent. I have been taking two full ropes (9.8 & 10.2) and the weight sucks. I am thinking about carrying a 7 mil static cord and using it as a pull line on the 9.8. Would you use an EDK to attach the cords of different diameter? or...... should I bite the bullet and buy a set of twin ropes? The latter is more expensive and that's the only reason I'm not jumping on that idea.
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maldaly
Jul 26, 2013, 6:33 PM
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Registered: Oct 31, 2002
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I've done it both ways. I loved having a 7mm tag line because it wasn't in the way while climbing; it sat in my pack. The problem is 2-fold:
First, because of the differential rope stretch and friction through your device, even with the static, you need to have the lead cord through the anchor point especially if that anchor point is webbing. Pulling the fat rope through the anchors with the skinny line is really really hard. On occasion it is impossible.
Second, If you rig it the other way around and use the fat rope to pull the skinny line through (careful there) the the skinny always--every time-- gets hung up somewhere or twists itself into a Gordian knot.
In short I love the skinny line idea as long as that line was in my pack. In every other situation, twins or doubles were better.
Mal
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dugl33
Jul 26, 2013, 6:58 PM
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Registered: Oct 6, 2009
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keith_b00ne wrote: I have been climbing a lot more alpine and multipitch routes that require two ropes for decent. I have been taking two full ropes (9.8 & 10.2) and the weight sucks. I am thinking about carrying a 7 mil static cord and using it as a pull line on the 9.8. Would you use an EDK to attach the cords of different diameter? or...... should I bite the bullet and buy a set of twin ropes? The latter is more expensive and that's the only reason I'm not jumping on that idea.
I've been climbing on skinny ropes for a few years now and I love using them (pmi verglas - dual rated for twin and double rope technique).
1.) They pack well for long approaches and each person can carry one.
2.) They work really well in ATC guide mode.
3.) Straight forward for full length raps.
4.) Light weight to carry and lead with.
In short, if you can swing the cost, once you get used to using them you'll probably be stoked to have them. You can use them just for alpine and trad multi-pitch and abuse the fat ropes on sport climbs and cragging.
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bearbreeder
Jul 26, 2013, 7:14 PM
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Registered: Feb 2, 2009
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the REAL advantage of a half rope system is that you can lead back up in an emergency on one strand
the REAL disadvantage is that they are more expensive and tend to wear out pretty quick, especially on hard multi where you may take whippers and you may have to drag your second up
dont get a twin rope ... get a ~8mm half rope that is rated for half AND twin if you are doing that route
personally i climb mostly on a single these days .. if i need to bring a second rope up itll be a thin half that i trail ... that way i can still get back up a rap if the rope is stuck
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keith_b00ne
Jul 26, 2013, 7:35 PM
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Registered: Sep 15, 2004
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I did some quick math.
9.8mm + 10.2mm = 16.5 pounds
2, 9.8mm = 16.1 pounds
9.8mm + 7.0mm static = 13.49 pounds
half 8.8mm x 2 = 12.6 pounds
That helps see the difference in weight on long approaches. The static line isn't much difference in weight than the half ropes, but the halfs are certainly more functional.
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USnavy
Jul 29, 2013, 5:17 AM
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maldaly wrote: Pulling the fat rope through the anchors with the skinny line is really really hard. On occasion it is impossible.
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chris
Jul 29, 2013, 6:10 PM
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Registered: Feb 4, 2003
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I've had enough issues with wear using twins and halfs that I've given up and switched back to using a 7mm tag line. I rig it with the lead line through the rappel anchor, overhand x 2 on the 7mm, and then tie a figure eight on a bight on the 9.2mm lead line immediately next to the overhand (on the running end, not the tail). This gets clipped to the lead line below the anchor.
Now I can do a single rope rappel on the lead line, confident that the overhand know won't accidentally pop through the rappel biner/ring/quicklink. I can also run the 7mm through the rappel device if I want (it helps me manage it) without worrying about the 7mm feeding faster than the other.
If I'm worried about the knot/biner getting stuck in the terrain when I pull the rope, I switch back to a conventionally double-rope rappel and just watch the 7mm carefully. Knots on the ends, folks.
I'd be open to doing it with a 6mm, but I'm still using a 7mm until it gets to worn/cut to short for anchors.
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