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skeet79
Aug 17, 2013, 11:30 AM
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Registered: Jun 23, 2013
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I am a relatively new trad leader with a budget rack consisting primarily of passive nuts and hexes with 1 #1 Camalot. I have read several route reviews on The Staircase, and it sounds like a perfect trad multi for a new leader like me. My only concern is that it sounds like the second pitch belay anchor relies almost completely on a horizontal crack, which might be difficult to adequately protect without owning a few more cams. Does anyone know if a vertical crack system exists at the belay ledge?
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moose_droppings
Aug 18, 2013, 5:00 AM
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Registered: Jun 7, 2005
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skeet79 wrote: I am a relatively new trad leader with a budget rack consisting primarily of passive nuts and hexes with 1 #1 Camalot. I have read several route reviews on The Staircase, and it sounds like a perfect trad multi for a new leader like me. My only concern is that it sounds like the second pitch belay anchor relies almost completely on a horizontal crack, which might be difficult to adequately protect without owning a few more cams. Does anyone know if a vertical crack system exists at the belay ledge? Don't know anything about the route, but hexes work fine in horizontals.
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marc801
Aug 19, 2013, 12:23 AM
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moose_droppings wrote: Don't know anything about the route, but hexes work fine in horizontals. Providing you've practiced enough to develop the necessary skills, which doesn't quite sound like a good fit for the self-description in the OP.
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moose_droppings
Aug 19, 2013, 4:15 AM
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Hopefully he'll take this info and learn how to use them proficiently in horizontals.
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skeet79
Aug 28, 2013, 11:45 AM
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Registered: Jun 23, 2013
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Thanks for the advice. So long as there is ample opportunity for oppositional placements to prevent sideways pulls from dislodging my hex, I will feel comfortable with the horizontal crack. If I don't feel confident in my ability to set up a solid well equalized anchor, I'll just downclimb the first pitch and call it a good retreat.
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