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mikebarter387
Sep 27, 2013, 3:44 AM
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Prusik: Always had trouble figuring out the spelling to this till putting pen to paper. The go to knot for most North Americans.
Klemheist: I guess the second best known of it's sort. They claim a better choice for icy ropes.
French (Freedom) Prusik/autoblock: Does amazingly well in technical papers. Which can be found on this site with a little searching.
https://itunes.apple.com/...ers/id713696476?ls=1
( Edited cause the grammer police ain't done got beter tings too du.)
(This post was edited by mikebarter387 on Sep 27, 2013, 10:33 AM)
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JimTitt
Sep 27, 2013, 7:17 AM
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mikebarter387 wrote: prusik: Always had trouble figuring out the spelling to this till putting pen to paper. Clearly you still have trouble with this. Capital P next time please.
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meanandugly
Sep 27, 2013, 9:22 AM
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JimTitt wrote: mikebarter387 wrote: prusik: Always had trouble figuring out the spelling to this till putting pen to paper. Clearly you still have trouble with this. Capital P next time please. I always have a capital pee in the morning.
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zchandran
Oct 3, 2013, 4:49 PM
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I'm climbing almost at a 5.9 level now, so I'm not sure I should even be bothering with the beginner forum...
But anyways, serious question on the hitches:
I usually go with the Prussik as my default because I can tie it with one hand. I like the Bachmann the best, followed by the Klemheist. Are those knots that someone with limited manual dexterity can do onehanded, without spending dozens of hours practicing?
Z.
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mikebarter387
Oct 3, 2013, 6:24 PM
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I guess we would have to better define "Limited dexterity " . My guess is most likely yes. However I am not sure of a situation where this would be required. In most if not all improvised rescues the first course of action is to escape the belay by tying it off.
Do me a favour and don't make up some unlikely situation that would never happen. You can worry about that when it does, which it won't. If you are really worried about it spend dozens and dozens of hours practicing.
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zchandran
Oct 3, 2013, 7:31 PM
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I'm not dropping cams left and right, but last time I tried a Bachmann with one hand while on rap I fiddled with it for 10 minutes and wound up holding the biner in place with my mouth which looked fairly stupid.
This would just be for single pitch where I want to throw a hitch on, while on the rope. More of a toolbox skill than a rescue one. Right now I just tie a prussik with my left hand. If I could do a Bachmann I'd love to do that instead since it's so much easier to control the rest of the way down. Barring that, I like the Klemheist much more than the Prussik.
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rocknice2
Oct 4, 2013, 3:10 AM
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zchandran wrote: I'm not dropping cams left and right, but last time I tried a Bachmann with one hand while on rap I fiddled with it for 10 minutes and wound up holding the biner in place with my mouth which looked fairly stupid. This would just be for single pitch where I want to throw a hitch on, while on the rope. More of a toolbox skill than a rescue one. Right now I just tie a prussik with my left hand. If I could do a Bachmann I'd love to do that instead since it's so much easier to control the rest of the way down. Barring that, I like the Klemheist much more than the Prussik.
There are better ways to stop yourself or add friction to the rope, part way down, without fussing with a knot. But we don't need to tell you that, you can almost climb 5.9.
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edge
Oct 4, 2013, 3:31 AM
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zchandran wrote: I'm climbing almost at a 5.9 level now, so I'm not sure I should even be bothering with the beginner forum... But anyways, serious question on the hitches: I usually go with the Prussik as my default because I can tie it with one hand. I like the Bachmann the best, followed by the Klemheist. Are those knots that someone with limited manual dexterity can do onehanded, without spending dozens of hours practicing? Z.
Is this Aaron Ralston?
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socalclimber
Oct 4, 2013, 9:20 AM
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edge wrote: zchandran wrote: I'm climbing almost at a 5.9 level now, so I'm not sure I should even be bothering with the beginner forum... But anyways, serious question on the hitches: I usually go with the Prussik as my default because I can tie it with one hand. I like the Bachmann the best, followed by the Klemheist. Are those knots that someone with limited manual dexterity can do onehanded, without spending dozens of hours practicing? Z. Is this Aaron Ralston?
Ahhh yes. Beginners posting advice in the beginners forum. How about this for a title with a little more reality attached:
Three slide and grab hitches that ain't gonna kill you to learn, but could kill you if you don't know them
(This post was edited by socalclimber on Oct 4, 2013, 9:24 AM)
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mikebarter387
Oct 4, 2013, 11:51 AM
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And they wonder why I drink!
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socalclimber
Oct 4, 2013, 2:34 PM
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I like that!
A simple explanation that my wife constantly reminds me of on a daily basis:
What do you call a guide who just broke up with his girlfriend or wife?
HOMELESS
If this stupid shutdown doesn't end soon I'll be homeless as well! It's hard to guide when you can't bring clients into the park!
I missed your signature. It's pretty constant for the advanced beginners dispensing advice they clearly don't have the experience to back up around here. Get used to it!
Then there's the pricks like me running loose...
Cheers!
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zchandran
Oct 4, 2013, 4:47 PM
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socalclimber wrote: edge wrote: zchandran wrote: I'm climbing almost at a 5.9 level now, so I'm not sure I should even be bothering with the beginner forum... But anyways, serious question on the hitches: I usually go with the Prussik as my default because I can tie it with one hand. I like the Bachmann the best, followed by the Klemheist. Are those knots that someone with limited manual dexterity can do onehanded, without spending dozens of hours practicing? Z. Is this Aaron Ralston? Ahhh yes. Beginners posting advice in the beginners forum. How about this for a title with a little more reality attached: Three slide and grab hitches that ain't gonna kill you to learn, but could kill you if you don't know them
I'm sorry, are you having a reading comprehension problem?
I said those are the knots that I like. I repeat - "I". I certainly didn't advise anyone to use them. I just wanted to know how to tie a Bachmann one handed, but apparently you can't ask anything on here anymore without it turning into drama central.
I remember when you could ask something on RC without six elitist dillholes flexing nuts at you. And then people are clueless enough to wonder why the forums aren't what they used to be. (rolls eyes)
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zchandran
Oct 4, 2013, 5:32 PM
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You drink because otherwise you'd realize your Youtube videos have production quality that a high school sophomore would be ashamed of... 
Just kidding, and thanks for the information. I asked someone over at Mountain Project and got my answer about the Bachmann. So the trick apparently is to wind the cordolette through the biner upside down and then invert the knot. That way the biner is resting against the ATC and not going anywhere when you get it started. I'm not sure I'm describing it well, but I tried it and it works great, so I'm set.
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rocknice2
Oct 4, 2013, 9:42 PM
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Don't be so quick to roll your eyes. Your approach to securing the rappel is flawed.
There's only a few situations where you'd want to add a hitch. If friction is insufficient then it's much faster and safer to clip a biner to the leg loop and pass the rope through it. Add a wrap for more friction. You could do a leg wrap, passing the rope behind you then up between your crotch. This is not that comfy with summer shorts on.
To stop and lock off completely, just wrap the rope around your leg a few times. 3 usually does it. Clip the trail end to the rope above you so it doesn't fall of your leg. Now you can remove a stuck cam or even use both hands to make your hitch.
There is no need to practice tying single handed knots.
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patto
Oct 5, 2013, 6:35 AM
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Prusiks are constantly misused on rappel.
Knowing how to tie them is just enough information to get people in trouble.
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