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jacques
Nov 3, 2013, 2:50 PM
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In reply to: "fear is the root of many climber's limitations [..] in sport climbing, the focus is not on the protection of the route, but rather, the physical movement and strength of climber.[..] On most sport route, there is little realistic fear of injury [..]Closer examination may indicate that it is really of being out of control"
For me, my fear is a major injury (vertebrae head, etc). I accept to broke my arms and legs. When I am doing a move, I think before doing it what can happen and try to place my pro in that way. If there is a long fall without danger, I can run it out without problem.
One of my major concern is the strength of my hands. I had carpal tunel on both and I never know if it will open at the wrong moment. Althought I am getting stronger, the fear stick in my mind....probably as a safe advice.
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camrock
Nov 3, 2013, 5:27 PM
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I've found myself to be a lot more cautious and "scared" of certain heights, etc lately. It's very annoying and I have been working on regaining confidence, but I think a lot of it has to do with just getting older.
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edge
Nov 3, 2013, 7:11 PM
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lena_chita
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Nov 4, 2013, 12:25 PM
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I am not sure what "types of fear" there are, in general.
But I used to be a lot more casual about falling when I had less experience. I have personally seen, or heard of, too many seemingly-safe sport climbing falls go wrong. Anything from busted feet/ankles/wrists to deaths.
All sorts of reasons, from stiff catch, unfortunate location of ledges, rope mis-management, etc. to gear failure (cut ropes, worn out dogbones, broken 'biners) to belayer errors.
If you add near-misses, the numbers go even higher.
I am a lot more selective about who I climb with, and even more selective about who will be catching me when I want to push until I fall.
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potreroed
Nov 4, 2013, 4:39 PM
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The only thing we have to fear is fear itself.
--FDR
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ChalkIsCheap
Nov 4, 2013, 7:58 PM
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potreroed wrote: The only thing we have to fear is fear itself. --FDR
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rocknice2
Nov 4, 2013, 8:07 PM
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jacques wrote: In reply to: "fear is the root of many climber's limitations [..] in sport climbing, the focus is not on the protection of the route, but rather, the physical movement and strength of climber.[..] On most sport route, there is little realistic fear of injury [..]Closer examination may indicate that it is really of being out of control" For me, my fear is a major injury (vertebrae head, etc). I accept to broke my arms and legs. When I am doing a move, I think before doing it what can happen and try to place my pro in that way. If there is a long fall without danger, I can run it out without problem. One of my major concern is the strength of my hands. I had carpal tunel on both and I never know if it will open at the wrong moment. Althought I am getting stronger, the fear stick in my mind....probably as a safe advice.
Sorry but I don't accept a broken limb as par for the coarse. Remind me to never climb with you.
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jacques
Nov 12, 2013, 3:09 PM
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lena_chita wrote: I am not sure what "types of fear" there are, in general.
Fear of opinion of felling, fear of falling, fear of not be in control, fear of being injure, fear that the belayer won't stop your fall, etc.
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