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What is your favourite route that is actually f***ing awful.
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sungam


Dec 16, 2013, 6:47 AM
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What is your favourite route that is actually f***ing awful.
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Okay, what really god awful routes have you climbed that you actually had a load of fun on?

One that comes to mind was on the Hog's Back at Lover's Leap , California.
I went there to meet Lazlo, which was pretty funny in itself(1), and we did Bear's Reach the first night, which was a pretty rad route. It was pretty busy so we decided to do a route on the hog's back instead of the super famous uberclassics on lover's leap itself.

I don't even remember what the route was called or graded, but I remember it was shitty, covered in dirt and pine needles and quite a few ants, but it was actually really good fun. Not quite sure why. Maybe it was the whole "hexes and swarmi belt only" thing, or the fact there was no one around, or the fact I had a huge mancrush on Lazlo.



I am bad at telling stories but I want to hear yours.









(1)the highlight of that trip was my brother scaring the living SHIT out of Lazlo by flashing his fireman's badge, claiming it was a police badge, and announcing that Lazlo had just given his underage brother a beer. The look on his face was PRICELESS. Then my bro drove off with my bag in his truck. f*** that was a cold night.


(This post was edited by sungam on Dec 16, 2013, 6:48 AM)


sungam


Dec 16, 2013, 6:49 AM
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Re: [sungam] What is your favourite route that is actually f***ing awful. [In reply to]
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Holy goddam look at those man titties, I forgot about those until I looked at that picture just now.


Gmburns2000


Dec 16, 2013, 7:06 AM
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Re: [sungam] What is your favourite route that is actually f***ing awful. [In reply to]
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How does River Tower in Moab not make your list? Gotta be up there as my favorite awful climb.

Actually, that was a pretty cool climb in of itself considering the exposure.

Just about everything on Hogsback was pretty boring to be honest.

Worst climb that I had fun on? Probably The Saigons in NoCo. Pretty lousy climbing altogether, but one can have an adventure or two on it if one wants to (getting off in particular if you don't have two ropes - oops!)


sungam


Dec 16, 2013, 7:43 AM
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Re: [Gmburns2000] What is your favourite route that is actually f***ing awful. [In reply to]
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Gmburns2000 wrote:
How does River Tower in Moab not make your list? Gotta be up there as my favorite awful climb.
I don't really know how to classify that River Tower. "rock" climbing might be stretching it a bit.


caughtinside


Dec 16, 2013, 8:46 AM
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Re: [sungam] What is your favourite route that is actually f***ing awful. [In reply to]
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what's the name of the shitty route on the hogback? I've probably done it at some point or another.

I find I actually prefer doing weird shitty routes these days. They generally have no chalk, no climbers and plenty of adventure and surprises on them.


potreroed


Dec 16, 2013, 11:36 AM
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Re: [sungam] What is your favourite route that is actually f***ing awful. [In reply to]
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The Crescent Moon Buttress near Potrero Chico is the best route you will ever do on mediocre rock--either really loose or really sharp.

It's 8 pitches and you get to climb over a natural arch. step over a worm hole, rappel into a deep notch and climb out the other side, do a tyrolean traverse back to the main wall and a wild pendulum to reach the last rappel station.


Gmburns2000


Dec 17, 2013, 8:55 AM
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potreroed wrote:
The Crescent Moon Buttress near Potrero Chico is the best route you will ever do on mediocre rock--either really loose or really sharp.

It's 8 pitches and you get to climb over a natural arch. step over a worm hole, rappel into a deep notch and climb out the other side, do a tyrolean traverse back to the main wall and a wild pendulum to reach the last rappel station.


Actually, sounds almost like the River Tower route I noted above, except yours sounds wilder.


sungam


Dec 17, 2013, 9:58 AM
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Re: [Gmburns2000] What is your favourite route that is actually f***ing awful. [In reply to]
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Gmburns2000 wrote:
potreroed wrote:
The Crescent Moon Buttress near Potrero Chico is the best route you will ever do on mediocre rock--either really loose or really sharp.

It's 8 pitches and you get to climb over a natural arch. step over a worm hole, rappel into a deep notch and climb out the other side, do a tyrolean traverse back to the main wall and a wild pendulum to reach the last rappel station.


Actually, sounds almost like the River Tower route I noted above, except yours sounds wilder.
Also sounds like it's made from actual rock.


sungam


Dec 17, 2013, 9:59 AM
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Re: [caughtinside] What is your favourite route that is actually f***ing awful. [In reply to]
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caughtinside wrote:
what's the name of the shitty route on the hogback? I've probably done it at some point or another.

I find I actually prefer doing weird shitty routes these days. They generally have no chalk, no climbers and plenty of adventure and surprises on them.
I can't remember the name, but I've asked Laz, he might know.


snoopy138


Dec 17, 2013, 11:32 AM
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The Decorator Crab


6pacfershur


Dec 17, 2013, 9:44 PM
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1911 Gully, 3rd Flatiron....good times were had by all


climbingtrash


Dec 19, 2013, 9:13 PM
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Re: [6pacfershur] What is your favourite route that is actually f***ing awful. [In reply to]
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6pacfershur wrote:
1911 Gully, 3rd Flatiron....good times were had by all

Didn't yew used to have a different name?


shimanilami


Dec 20, 2013, 10:01 PM
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P.O.D.


rsmillbern


Dec 21, 2013, 1:24 PM
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Re: [sungam] What is your favourite route that is actually f***ing awful. [In reply to]
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Adam Platte on the Alpspitze was ... interesting. Chance to fall, 0%, chance that the slope you are climbing on will slide out from under you, 20%. Rocks falling from above for no apparent reason, gear every 10ish meters, 600 meters if choos :-).

Wanna come havea go Magnus??


theguy


Dec 22, 2013, 10:04 PM
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Re: [shimanilami] What is your favourite route that is actually f***ing awful. [In reply to]
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shimanilami wrote:
P.O.D.

WHAT?!? That is a phenomenal route, even RC's recently maliigned route db agrees, unless you're not talking about Red Rocks.


stevecurtis


Dec 24, 2013, 9:03 AM
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Go climb any route at Table rock St. H. Ca. Aloha patrol 4 pitches 11 B rope solo gets my vote.


timstich


Feb 14, 2014, 9:57 PM
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Army Route on the Pinnacle in Cheyenne Canyon, Colorado Springs. Steve Dieckhoff put it in his guide book "Serious Play" even. Absolute piece of crap kitty litter. Full of weird pounded in rebar loops for pro on second pitch. So loose on the start of the third pitch that buckets are now worn down into steps from erosion. Climbing it again tomorrow. Ha ha ha.


lofstromc


Feb 15, 2014, 1:45 PM
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Re: [shimanilami] What is your favourite route that is actually f***ing awful. [In reply to]
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I agree. Every pitch is the same. We climbed it and hated it the whole way up.


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