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Noob crag near Vegas or S. Utah
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dynosore


Jan 30, 2014, 3:22 PM
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Noob crag near Vegas or S. Utah
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Taking a friend for a little R&R, we'll be in Vegas a couple days then up through S. George and as far as Page, Az.

He's never climbed, even indoors. What's a good top rope crag with routes 5.8 and under anywhere along this cooridor, or in Red Rocks? Looking for easy access, we're only devoting a 1/2 day to climbing, but at least he's willing to try it!


lena_chita
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Jan 30, 2014, 6:46 PM
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Re: [dynosore] Noob crag near Vegas or S. Utah [In reply to]
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Red Rocks-- Panty wall at the 1st piullout. It has a bunch of 5.7s and 5.8s, even a 5.6. Once upon a time we took climbs4fun's former housemate there for his first-ever attempt to climb. He was able to get to the top of several 5.7s, if I recall. It is also sunny and perfect this time of the year, and the hike is about 10-15 min, but pretty mellow.

St. George:

Black Rocks Sunny side is chock-full of short easy climbs. the climbs will be only 3-5 bolts, at most. It has a 2-5 min approach (for real), and seems to be the place where groups of noobs go for their first taste, at least that's what it looked liked from across the valley, when we were there on the shady side.

Green Valley Gap-- same thing, also on the sunny side. A bunch of easy climbs. And the hike is 10-15 min ,depending on how far into the valley you go. If you are there with someone who can belay, make sure you walk over to the shady side and do Sand Stoner Reverse, really cool 12a, for your own enjoyment.

Both areas are described pretty well on MP (GPS coordinated for Black Rocks parking were invaluable!)


kennoyce


Jan 31, 2014, 8:30 AM
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Re: [lena_chita] Noob crag near Vegas or S. Utah [In reply to]
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lena_chita wrote:
Red Rocks-- Panty wall at the 1st piullout. It has a bunch of 5.7s and 5.8s, even a 5.6. Once upon a time we took climbs4fun's former housemate there for his first-ever attempt to climb. He was able to get to the top of several 5.7s, if I recall. It is also sunny and perfect this time of the year, and the hike is about 10-15 min, but pretty mellow.

St. George:

Black Rocks Sunny side is chock-full of short easy climbs. the climbs will be only 3-5 bolts, at most. It has a 2-5 min approach (for real), and seems to be the place where groups of noobs go for their first taste, at least that's what it looked liked from across the valley, when we were there on the shady side.

Green Valley Gap-- same thing, also on the sunny side. A bunch of easy climbs. And the hike is 10-15 min ,depending on how far into the valley you go. If you are there with someone who can belay, make sure you walk over to the shady side and do Sand Stoner Reverse, really cool 12a, for your own enjoyment.

Both areas are described pretty well on MP (GPS coordinated for Black Rocks parking were invaluable!)

I agree with everything Lena said except for the fact that there is no hike to Green Valley Gap, you can park directly above the top of the sunny side crags and walk the 30 seconds down to the base of the routes.

If you want to get some height and exposure on easy routes, check out the circus wall in snow canyon as well, just make sure you take two ropes.


dagibbs


Jan 31, 2014, 11:31 AM
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Re: [lena_chita] Noob crag near Vegas or S. Utah [In reply to]
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lena_chita wrote:
Red Rocks-- Panty wall at the 1st piullout. It has a bunch of 5.7s and 5.8s, even a 5.6. Once upon a time we took climbs4fun's former housemate there for his first-ever attempt to climb. He was able to get to the top of several 5.7s, if I recall. It is also sunny and perfect this time of the year, and the hike is about 10-15 min, but pretty mellow.

Panty Wall is nice easy climbing as I remember, but I don't remember it being top-ropable. Is there top access? Or will someone have to lead an easy sport route to set up the top rope?


funintheslots


Feb 10, 2014, 12:18 PM
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Re: [dynosore] Noob crag near Vegas or S. Utah [In reply to]
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Woodbury Road Crags are lots of fun for noobs. Limestone, 16 named routes 5.9 and below. Nice quiet desert environment.


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