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Getting past the V5/6?
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Feb 26, 2014, 1:46 PM
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Registered: Nov 17, 2013
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Getting past the V5/6?
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How did you get past V5/6 in climbing?

When did you get there since you began climbing?

Tips for others...:)?


Feb 26, 2014, 4:48 PM
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Re: [Alexjt011] Getting past the V5/6? [In reply to]
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Moved to technique and training by lena.

Welcome to the forum, Alex.


Aug 19, 2014, 1:32 PM
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Re: [Alexjt011] Getting past the V5/6? [In reply to]
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I did my first V5 a little over a year after I started climbing. First V6 2 years after that, and first V7 a year after that. I don't boulder as much outside as I climb routes though. I found that it's pretty easy to climb V5's if you climb regularly (3 days a week or so) and you continue to push your limits, without having to put a lot of extra effort in. Climbing V6 is pretty much the same though you may need to actually focus on bouldering more than before. In my experience climbing V7 without doing any kind of training is hard, though certainly many people do it. Eventually you'll reach a point where you're pushing yourself in the gym trying to get stronger, without specifically training and you just aren't climbing any harder. This number is going to be different for everyone. For me it was around V6/7, for Sharma it was V15/5.15b. At that point you will probably need to start training to get stronger.

I've been climbing for about 5 years, and in the last 3 months I've started training I've seen my bouldering ability go up from flashing 4's and 5's, working 6's and some 7's, to flashing many 6's, sending 7's in 1 or 2 sessions and working 8's. However, training will put a ton of stress on your tendons, and it takes tendons 5-6 years to get stronger, so you really shouldn't do any fingerboard type of training until you've been climbing about that long.


Nov 1, 2014, 10:32 PM
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Re: [jb2100] Getting past the V5/6? [In reply to]
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I started climbing somewhere at the start of August. Did my first V6 last Wednesday. (October 29)

I feel like I have reached my limit though, because I have non existent crimp strength Frown. I have an incredibly hard time with anything that involves crimps. The only thing I can do to get better at crimps right now is to lose 10-20 pounds. I'm 5'7 at 160lbs. I was 175 when I began climbing and 205 at the start of the year.

Judging from what I have been reading, you need to be climbing for at least a year to develop any sort of crimp strength. Being 28 and all my recovery is not very good. I can climb 3 times a week at best.

I primarily boulder, unless I'm feeling in pain from the previous session, then I do some top rope.


Nov 4, 2014, 11:22 AM
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Re: [Alexjt011] Getting past the V5/6? [In reply to]
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What is your height and weight? If your BMI is high, I suggest losing some weight. I might get flamed by saying this, but your weight has a lot to do with your climbing ability.

1. Climb hard stuff all the time, even if you can't finish it. Try at least 3-6 times before quitting.
2. Climb more often; 3 times a week minimum to progress.

3. Try lifting weights, do bicep curls, bent over barbell rows.
The key to gaining strength in weight lifting is repetition. Do at least 3 reps of an exercise for at least 4 weeks. Depending on your body, you should be at least 10-20% stronger by the end of the month. Increase the weights on every set and session.

This also applies to climbing, if you don't climb harder ever session, how is your body going to build muscle necessary to finish it.

4. Campus after every session at least 3 times and down campus as well.

5. Work on your technique. Are you using every possible movement possible? Can you hold onto that tiny crimp and make the next move, if not climb routes that are crimpy until you can.

6. Are you eating properly prior to going to the gym?

Remember when you were working on V3's and trying to get past that threshold? What did you do then? It's all a matter of technique and power endurance. Project a few V6's until you can get the move.

Everyone wants a magic formula to get doesn't exist. Climb as hard as you can.

Talk to the strongest climbers around you to get beta and feedback on your climbing, ask them to watch you climb and critique it. How is your footwork, are you hesitating too long before making the next move, etc...? Critical feedback works wonders and any climber out there would be more than willing to help.

Get a good partner and project harder routes. Diet and train, commit to being a rock climber and not just a poser gym rat.

I remember meeting Sasha DiGiulian before she became a super star, that girl was like a tooth pick. She must have weighed 90 pounds of pure muscle, she also climbed every day and trained her ass off. She committed herself and she became what she is today.

Want it bad enough and you'll figure out how to get what you desire.

(This post was edited by cit327 on Nov 4, 2014, 11:32 AM)

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