set up

And, I can't remember how to inline those fucking things.

I would have shown you, if you came to Xzzz... just saying.

It is pretty awesome as usual. the first week was really cold, def down jackets and handwarmers and climbing in the sun kind of weather, esp at higher elevation. I have not seen it this cold here before.

Now things warmed up quite a bit, so it is hot in town, and more buggy, but climbing temps are still pretty awesome.

All the WV people made it here. And all the usual suspects are here, too. Next week two WVians are getting married, and Banz is taking pics. It will be fun.

Spray haters should stop reading now.





camhead (and maybe GO)-- I sent The Great White Behemoth, and it felt awesome. Good to know that my bum knee doesn't stop me from climbing completely. But it is very tweaky and move-specific.

Tried Esplanada yesterday. Took three goes, and made good progress, but the top is not going to happen this year. So frustrating, because everyone says that it is not the crux, but it definitely is for me (reach). Still, it is so awesome up to the last bolt, and even though I really wish the climb had stopped there, I am willing to give it a try again next year, after I train really bad crimps and small pockets.

Banz is crushing, averaging one 13 per day, or two on a good day.


/SPRAY.

So I went to bed last night, just feeling terrible. Lower back and hip just ached and my whole body was super hurty. Didn't sleep at all last night because of the pain.

Felt like I had a bit of a bladder infection last night and this morning had a fever. Decided to make a trip to the ER. They're not 100% the it's a kidney infection, but I'm currently sitting in the hospital with and antibiotic IV drip.

It also makes a convenient excuse for not climbing overly strong yesterday.

And, I can't remember how to inline those fucking things.

I would have shown you, if you came to Xzzz... just saying.

It is pretty awesome as usual. the first week was really cold, def down jackets and handwarmers and climbing in the sun kind of weather, esp at higher elevation. I have not seen it this cold here before.

Now things warmed up quite a bit, so it is hot in town, and more buggy, but climbing temps are still pretty awesome.

All the WV people made it here. And all the usual suspects are here, too. Next week two WVians are getting married, and Banz is taking pics. It will be fun.

Spray haters should stop reading now.





camhead (and maybe GO)-- I sent The Great White Behemoth, and it felt awesome. Good to know that my bum knee doesn't stop me from climbing completely. But it is very tweaky and move-specific.

Tried Esplanada yesterday. Took three goes, and made good progress, but the top is not going to happen this year. So frustrating, because everyone says that it is not the crux, but it definitely is for me (reach). Still, it is so awesome up to the last bolt, and even though I really wish the climb had stopped there, I am willing to give it a try again next year, after I train really bad crimps and small pockets.

Banz is crushing, averaging one 13 per day, or two on a good day.


/SPRAY.

Fun weekend here. I finally started guiding on the New (not commercially, but on our own trips. Up until now we went with Jung, who steered and called the lines, but my apprenticeship is not done). Did that run twice, flipped yesterday, but made a great recovery.

We threw a pit bbq and movie screening at the campground, made about $300 to put in the cg's account here. Also did one last day of climbing before I embark on July hangboredom. It was mileage day at Kaymoor, actually did very climb there up to 12a (basically, every route except Ministry and Kaos), and am still wrecked from it. Start hanging some board today.

So I went to bed last night, just feeling terrible. Lower back and hip just ached and my whole body was super hurty. Didn't sleep at all last night because of the pain.

Felt like I had a bit of a bladder infection last night and this morning had a fever. Decided to make a trip to the ER. They're not 100% the it's a kidney infection, but I'm currently sitting in the hospital with and antibiotic IV drip.

It also makes a convenient excuse for not climbing overly strong yesterday.

Anyhoo - thought I would stop by and rattle yore cages.

Nice work on GWB (Great White Behemoth, not George W Bush)! That thing was about the only one two I didn't onsite when I was there! I'm confused as to why you would train bad crimps and pockets more for a reach move. Jump! JUMP!

So I went to bed last night, just feeling terrible. Lower back and hip just ached and my whole body was super hurty. Didn't sleep at all last night because of the pain.

Felt like I had a bit of a bladder infection last night and this morning had a fever. Decided to make a trip to the ER. They're not 100% the it's a kidney infection, but I'm currently sitting in the hospital with and antibiotic IV drip.

It also makes a convenient excuse for not climbing overly strong yesterday.

That sounds unfun. Feel bettah!

Dehydration or something? I had a kidney infection a long time ago that was super miserable. Sounds about like what you have. Hope you are coming out of it.

Hey Doc! Heard the event at Bozeman is going to be a world cup! Pretty rad.

MURKA!

And, I can't remember how to inline those fucking things.

I am doing better with jumping. (Did I tell you my campusing success story from this round of training? I learned how to do a double hand hop from 1 to 2 and back down to 1, on Moon spacing. I still kinda need a spot, not so much to help me jump as to control the swing a bit. Ed swears that he is just standing there more than anything, and it is in my head. So there is room for improvement. But still, I was so super-stoked!)

But I am not yet good enough to jump for a 2-finger half-pad crimp. You've done Esplanada, right? The top has a lot of small crimps and pockets that might be useable, if I were stronger, and I think I would need to use them. I think Jon Horst has done it when he were 9 or so, and while he might be almost as tall as me now, he definitely was shorter then.

Still, speaking about jumping, we went to Leigh creek, and I flashed a 12- yesterday that required a jump. A really small one. but it felt like 11a overall. Overhanging, short-ish, with giant holds and a rest in the middle. I said as much to Phil and Banz, and got told off for downgrading, because Banz says that 12a was just as easy as any other 12a, and I should get my head wrapped around the fact that not every 12a I do easily is automatically an 11a, just because I could do it, and anyway, there are people watching, and I shouldn't be a dick because maybe to them it would feel hard, and i just loudly said it was only 11a.

I didn't quite follow the logic, but I said sorry.

Banz and Phil got another 13a yesterday, and I almost onsighted another 11d/12a (got it 2nd go). Sort of disappointing, because I was staring at the anchors on the onsight go, but couldn't hang the draw on the anchors. But it was really fun, so I didn't mind doing it again (and it was more like 5.10 to one 11d move to get above the anchors...)

Oops! Banz can't hear me now, so it is O.K. Xzzz and vacation grades rule.





My knee has given up complaining as useless, and is finally learning to shut the fuck up. Well, prescription painkiller ointment helps, too. But I am cautiously optimistic because I think what is happening is that taking ibuprophen and putting that ointment on allowed me to move the knee more normally, without favoring/protecting the knee, and there is a shit ton of moving around in Xzzz, mostly on uneven ground. So maybe whatever flap there is in the meniscus is finally abrading on it's own.

Hard to say, but I haven't felt anything shift inside the knee for several days now. No locking or sharp pains with twisting, either. And I haven't had any of that prescription stuff since Friday, and i even took a shower on Saturday, so I am pretty sure the painkiller effect has worn out by now. The knee still gets somewhat sore, but without sharp pain, and it is still weaker than normal, but PT will take care of it, if that's all it is.

I guess we'll see, when I finally go to an orthopedist after I come back. I can't believe that I still haven't had anybody read the freaking MRI that was done 3 weeks ago. I am so not impressed with the healthcare system at the moment! I asked for the CD with the MRI images, and have looked at the MRI myself. I know enough to tell that there was a hell of a lot more fluid in the knee than there was supposed to be, and it looked like the meniscus was messed up for sure, you could see fluid streaks where there should have been only dark strip.

fuckdammit

Good to see you Donny!

If you are in any kind of shape and the digniteh isn't buried two deep in your 10x10 storage unit, and would like to climb something interesting in October, let me know!

A little bit of dehydration I'm sure, but nothing that out if the ordinary.