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doss
Jul 22, 2014, 7:10 PM
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Just a little background when I was a teenager I competed in ABS mostly intermediate and Sport Climbed 5.11. I did this for about 4 years straight and never had sore tendons. I took a 2 year break for college then 6 years in the Navy.
Now 8 years later I am 4-5 Months back into a 3 a week climbing training regiment I want to compete again. I do Mondays/Wednesday/Friday(weekend outside if I can). My issue is say I climb on Monday Afternoon, my tendons are sore afterwards then really sore the next day and even into Wednesday they fill sort of sore(usually wears off prior to my climb on wednesday)...
So anyone know any tricks to make your tendons recover faster or is this just something I have to deal with until they get stronger?
Also I work in the IT industry and am always on a keyboard so not using my hands during the day is out of the question..
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heelhookrc
Jul 22, 2014, 10:15 PM
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Not to state the obvious, but... Ice!!!
Yeah, its pretty simple, just soak your hands in really cold water (put some ice in it). Leave your hands in for about 10 minutes and you'll be good.
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onceahardman
Jul 23, 2014, 10:58 AM
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doss wrote: Just a little background when I was a teenager I competed in ABS mostly intermediate and Sport Climbed 5.11. I did this for about 4 years straight and never had sore tendons. I took a 2 year break for college then 6 years in the Navy. Now 8 years later I am 4-5 Months back into a 3 a week climbing training regiment I want to compete again. I do Mondays/Wednesday/Friday(weekend outside if I can). My issue is say I climb on Monday Afternoon, my tendons are sore afterwards then really sore the next day and even into Wednesday they fill sort of sore(usually wears off prior to my climb on wednesday)... So anyone know any tricks to make your tendons recover faster or is this just something I have to deal with until they get stronger? Also I work in the IT industry and am always on a keyboard so not using my hands during the day is out of the question..
Thank you for your service.
Ice will likely decrease the pain, but will not really increase the rate of healing much. Assuming you have adequate nutrition, I think the best answer is either decrease your training intensity, or increase your rest times between sessions. Continuing to train through inflammation is asking for trouble.
There is pretty poor research supporting most of the "magical" supplements which allegedly "support healing".
Good luck! Stay in touch!
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granite_grrl
Jul 23, 2014, 12:52 PM
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I assume that you're about 27 then?
You're still not that old, but you can't expect to recover the way you used to. You are probably training the way you used to as a teenager. We'll, you're no longer a teenager with elastic tendons, and with the time you took off you're going to have to take your time and build your tendons up.
oncehardman's advise (as usual) is spot on. Listen to your body, especially if it's your tendons screaming the high notes.
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morcomm
Jul 24, 2014, 6:35 AM
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Also, the reason tendons get sore usually isn't because of that ill-defined condition known as "inflammation" that gets bandied about so much. Usually, tendons get sore because of reduction of oxygen, a condition known as ischemia. Why is the amount of oxygen being lowered by the autonomic nervous system in your brain? Quite often, barring a pre-existing medical condition, it's stress pure and simple. You're trying to come back and subjecting yourself to a bunch of self-imposed pressure. IOWs: Lighten up and chill out. A more playful attitude may be in order.
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onceahardman
Jul 24, 2014, 11:05 AM
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morcomm wrote: Also, the reason tendons get sore usually isn't because of that ill-defined condition known as "inflammation" that gets bandied about so much. Usually, tendons get sore because of reduction of oxygen, a condition known as ischemia. Why is the amount of oxygen being lowered by the autonomic nervous system in your brain? Quite often, barring a pre-existing medical condition, it's stress pure and simple. You're trying to come back and subjecting yourself to a bunch of self-imposed pressure. IOWs: Lighten up and chill out. A more playful attitude may be in order.
Not sure where to start here...
"Inflammation", contrary to your post, is very well defined, and much studied.
The "autonomic nervous system" is part of the peripheral nervous system, and as such is NOT "in your brain".
Would you care to supply some evidence supporting your "autonomic ischemia" theory? And exactly how "attitude" contributes to it?
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morcomm
Jul 24, 2014, 7:33 PM
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Yes, inflammation in soft tissue is much studied, documented and understood. Swelling. Warmth. Discoloration. Hematoma. However, inflammation is not very well understood in tendons. Sometimes a PT or chiro will state categorically that a tendon is "inflamed" with absolutely no physical evidence whatsoever to back up that diagnosis. That's not to say you shouldn't get checked out for some underlying Auto-immune (AI) disorder like RA or ALS.
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onceahardman
Jul 24, 2014, 9:58 PM
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morcomm wrote: Yes, inflammation in soft tissue is much studied, documented and understood. Swelling. Warmth. Discoloration. Hematoma. However, inflammation is not very well understood in tendons. Sometimes a PT or chiro will state categorically that a tendon is "inflamed" with absolutely no physical evidence whatsoever to back up that diagnosis. That's not to say you shouldn't get checked out for some underlying Auto-immune (AI) disorder like RA or ALS.
Above, you made a specific comment:
In reply to: Usually, tendons get sore because of reduction of oxygen, a condition known as ischemia. Why is the amount of oxygen being lowered by the autonomic nervous system in your brain?
I asked if you could provide evidence of this "autonomic ischemia". You have changed the subject, and made another error. Tendons are soft tissue. And you admit inflammation is well studied in soft tissue.
Inflammation, as a clinical assessment, is characterized by pain at rest, which is assumed to be at least partially a chemical, rather than mechanical, nerve insult. A strained (torn) tendon or sprained ligament will result in damage to cellular structures, in which intracellular materials wind up where they don't belong, i.e. in interstitial spaces. This begins the inflammatory response, which is also the necessary first step in healing.
I'll certainly agree, though, that old cases of tendinitis should more accurately be termed, "Tendonosis". You will find little argument among those who work with these patients.
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28tim
Jul 28, 2014, 12:37 AM
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DouglasHunter
Jul 28, 2014, 5:56 PM
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Doss,
First off, how do you know it is your tendons that are sore? The fingers are very complex and it can be hard to know exactly what structure it is that hurts or what the nature of the pain actually is. What are the signs that are leading you to conclude it's tendon pain and not a ligament, joint capsule, pulley, etc.?
Second, are you stretching your foreams? There are certain types of finger pain that can be agravated by the fact that one does not stretch.
Third, be careful, it may take 18 months or more for your tendons and ligaments to adopt to the stress of climbing again. emphasize volume over difficulty at this point.
Fourth, what you are describing is a little odd, in that greater soreness on the second day is a common occurance with DOMS but not really with tendons or ligaments. So that is a bit of a head scratcher for me.
Fifth, if you are doing a lot of climbing on small holds, crimpers in particular, emphasize larger holds and stay away from crimping for several months.
Sixth, this is not really a good place to go for advice on hand pain, even those of us with a lot of experience, don't understand the hands very well, all we can really do is offer generic advice: Ice, reduce the load, and stretch the forearms. All of which are reasonable things to say but none of which are informed by a real understanding of what is going on in YOUR fingers. Also there can be real complexity between being at a keyboard all day, and climbing. You want to review the recommendations on workspace structure for people who sit at computers and type all day.
Good luck.
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