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The Rock Climber’s Training Manual vs Training for Climbing
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scienceguy288


Sep 11, 2014, 6:45 PM
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The Rock Climber’s Training Manual vs Training for Climbing
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Has anyone read both and can compare Horst to Anderson & Anderson?


tomfallen


Sep 12, 2014, 6:42 PM
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Re: [scienceguy288] The Rock Climber’s Training Manual vs Training for Climbing [In reply to]
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I've read both, and a bunch of other training books, and think the Anderson's book is the best climbing training book out there - hands down. I like their general philosophy to training. But more importantly, they have a very concrete plan telling you exactly what to do when. They also explain their reasoning behind what they tell you, to give you the ability to modify their plan to meet your needs.


lena_chita
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Sep 13, 2014, 6:41 AM
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Re: [scienceguy288] The Rock Climber’s Training Manual vs Training for Climbing [In reply to]
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I have read the first edition of Eric's book, a long time ago.

My thoughts: these books have different audiences.

The Anderson book is aimed at people who have been climbing for a while, have a solid foundation of good technique, are climbing at least 5.12, and are looking to further increase strength and power in a systematic way. The book doesn't just give you exercises to do for strength, or for power, or for endurance, etc, it puts things in a periodization plan. This book would be completely wasted on someone who says, "Hey guys, I've been climbing for couple months now, and I was wondering, how do I get stronger quickly?"

Horst book struck me as a more haphazard collection of exercises and thoughts. There are some good things there, but I didn't come out after reading it feeling like I knew what I needed to do, like I had a plan, and a way to track my progress.


lena_chita
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Sep 13, 2014, 6:44 AM
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Re: [lena_chita] The Rock Climber’s Training Manual vs Training for Climbing [In reply to]
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I should add that after following the training plan as outlined in Anderson's books, I have broken through a plateau and seen a measurable improvement in my climbing. Also, the periodization plan works really well for someone like me, who is stuck with less than great climbing weather during winter and summer.


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