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sungam


Oct 2, 2014, 12:22 AM
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Hard as fukkin balls, super pretty, and about 10-15x more spread out then I had imagined. I thought it was like the Red, everything kinda within 30/40 minutes of each other, but it isn't. Crags are hours apart, even on the autobhan (which people drive terrifyingly fast on).

Also the first bolts on most of the routes we did were really, really high. Even if I had my stick clip it wouldn't have reached. There are also lots of threads - old, nasty rope or cord with a touch of green lichen. Yum yum. Definitely not Siurana.

There was heavy, like super dupe heavy, dew each morning. A lot of the crags are in these super cool woods but that means the rock dries slowly, and there is a noticeable drop in friction from a bit of dampness so if I cared terribly much about the grades I'd be disappointed that I didn't come anywhere near my "target grade" I wanted to push myself to redpoint on this trip but since the aim was really actually to just push myself to try things that were difficult for me it was a big success and we had a shitload of fun, too.

I'll have pics in a bit.


Gmburns2000


Oct 2, 2014, 6:04 AM
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sungam wrote:
Hard as fukkin balls, super pretty, and about 10-15x more spread out then I had imagined. I thought it was like the Red, everything kinda within 30/40 minutes of each other, but it isn't. Crags are hours apart, even on the autobhan (which people drive terrifyingly fast on).

Also the first bolts on most of the routes we did were really, really high. Even if I had my stick clip it wouldn't have reached. There are also lots of threads - old, nasty rope or cord with a touch of green lichen. Yum yum. Definitely not Siurana.

There was heavy, like super dupe heavy, dew each morning. A lot of the crags are in these super cool woods but that means the rock dries slowly, and there is a noticeable drop in friction from a bit of dampness so if I cared terribly much about the grades I'd be disappointed that I didn't come anywhere near my "target grade" I wanted to push myself to redpoint on this trip but since the aim was really actually to just push myself to try things that were difficult for me it was a big success and we had a shitload of fun, too.

I'll have pics in a bit.

So you flashed 5.5 or so then?

Looking forward to the pics.


Partner epoch
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Oct 2, 2014, 9:03 PM
Post #45153 of 45337 (14491 views)
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Gmburns2000 wrote:
sungam wrote:
Hard as fukkin balls, super pretty, and about 10-15x more spread out then I had imagined. I thought it was like the Red, everything kinda within 30/40 minutes of each other, but it isn't. Crags are hours apart, even on the autobhan (which people drive terrifyingly fast on).

Also the first bolts on most of the routes we did were really, really high. Even if I had my stick clip it wouldn't have reached. There are also lots of threads - old, nasty rope or cord with a touch of green lichen. Yum yum. Definitely not Siurana.

There was heavy, like super dupe heavy, dew each morning. A lot of the crags are in these super cool woods but that means the rock dries slowly, and there is a noticeable drop in friction from a bit of dampness so if I cared terribly much about the grades I'd be disappointed that I didn't come anywhere near my "target grade" I wanted to push myself to redpoint on this trip but since the aim was really actually to just push myself to try things that were difficult for me it was a big success and we had a shitload of fun, too.

I'll have pics in a bit.

So you flashed 5.5 or so then?

Looking forward to the pics.
Me too.

5.5.... gunks4lyfe


Gmburns2000


Oct 3, 2014, 5:15 AM
Post #45154 of 45337 (14471 views)
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epoch wrote:
Gmburns2000 wrote:
sungam wrote:
Hard as fukkin balls, super pretty, and about 10-15x more spread out then I had imagined. I thought it was like the Red, everything kinda within 30/40 minutes of each other, but it isn't. Crags are hours apart, even on the autobhan (which people drive terrifyingly fast on).

Also the first bolts on most of the routes we did were really, really high. Even if I had my stick clip it wouldn't have reached. There are also lots of threads - old, nasty rope or cord with a touch of green lichen. Yum yum. Definitely not Siurana.

There was heavy, like super dupe heavy, dew each morning. A lot of the crags are in these super cool woods but that means the rock dries slowly, and there is a noticeable drop in friction from a bit of dampness so if I cared terribly much about the grades I'd be disappointed that I didn't come anywhere near my "target grade" I wanted to push myself to redpoint on this trip but since the aim was really actually to just push myself to try things that were difficult for me it was a big success and we had a shitload of fun, too.

I'll have pics in a bit.

So you flashed 5.5 or so then?

Looking forward to the pics.
Me too.

5.5.... gunks4lyfe

I miss the 'Gunks.


donald949


Oct 4, 2014, 8:09 AM
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sungam wrote:
Hard as fukkin balls, super pretty, and about 10-15x more spread out then I had imagined. I thought it was like the Red, everything kinda within 30/40 minutes of each other, but it isn't. Crags are hours apart, even on the autobhan (which people drive terrifyingly fast on).

Also the first bolts on most of the routes we did were really, really high. Even if I had my stick clip it wouldn't have reached. There are also lots of threads - old, nasty rope or cord with a touch of green lichen. Yum yum. Definitely not Siurana.

There was heavy, like super dupe heavy, dew each morning. A lot of the crags are in these super cool woods but that means the rock dries slowly, and there is a noticeable drop in friction from a bit of dampness so if I cared terribly much about the grades I'd be disappointed that I didn't come anywhere near my "target grade" I wanted to push myself to redpoint on this trip but since the aim was really actually to just push myself to try things that were difficult for me it was a big success and we had a shitload of fun, too.

I'll have pics in a bit.
two krewl, post up da pics.


donald949


Oct 4, 2014, 8:13 AM
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Gmburns2000 wrote:
donald949 wrote:
Gmburns2000 wrote:
donald949 wrote:
well yesterday wuz knot a gud day.
my knee hurt like a MF.
Only worse than that.
today is better.

glad today is better. i'm sure there'll be plenty of good days and bad days going forward. just keep your head up and plan on next summer being WAY better than this one.

are you on a time table at all?

infinite and beyond...
Otherwise last couple daze have been good. Cept the wrist is soar again. Two much unpacking 2day.

Well, I hear if you just accept it for what it is today then one day you'll wake up, look back, and think, "wow, I've come a long way."

Hopefully that happens to you sooner than later.

BTW - I'm unpacking today. First day living with The Lady. Wooooo!!!
yea for moving in!
Otherwse, I mosly take it day b day. But sum times the frustrations sets n, an eye kneeds rwo vent. But I cane c the progress. The pool work has gotten to easy, they moving me to more jim weights tyme @ pt.


donald949


Oct 4, 2014, 8:16 AM
Post #45157 of 45337 (14450 views)
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N udder knews, we made it out too da tetons yesterday. know skul day four da kids, sew take a road trip we did. we had whether roll through las weak, lots o rain here, but sum kool snow on the tetons. Even butter looking dan n da summer. wil has to post sum pic on stalk book.


Gmburns2000


Oct 4, 2014, 5:08 PM
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donald949 wrote:
N udder knews, we made it out too da tetons yesterday. know skul day four da kids, sew take a road trip we did. we had whether roll through las weak, lots o rain here, but sum kool snow on the tetons. Even butter looking dan n da summer. wil has to post sum pic on stalk book.

how close are you to the Tetons? A bit surprised that it's a no-school-day trip.

cleaned out the new studio today. painting it tomorrow. lots of work. tired. dog wants to play ball.


Gmburns2000


Oct 5, 2014, 8:20 PM
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Long weekend, but productive. Moved into the new studio. Not organized, and a bit smaller than expected, but it's good. I'm happy I have it. My first "studio" space, so actually, more than happy. Can't wait to get to work. Tomorrow is an organization day. Gotta get the canvases organized and paint put away. I like some "new" furniture I get to use, too. Just good storage space, so stoked about that.

Also got added to my wife's gym membership as a family member. Back to the pool after a year layoff.

Things are looking up.


sungam


Oct 6, 2014, 5:09 AM
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donald949 wrote:
sungam wrote:
Hard as fukkin balls, super pretty, and about 10-15x more spread out then I had imagined. I thought it was like the Red, everything kinda within 30/40 minutes of each other, but it isn't. Crags are hours apart, even on the autobhan (which people drive terrifyingly fast on).

Also the first bolts on most of the routes we did were really, really high. Even if I had my stick clip it wouldn't have reached. There are also lots of threads - old, nasty rope or cord with a touch of green lichen. Yum yum. Definitely not Siurana.

There was heavy, like super dupe heavy, dew each morning. A lot of the crags are in these super cool woods but that means the rock dries slowly, and there is a noticeable drop in friction from a bit of dampness so if I cared terribly much about the grades I'd be disappointed that I didn't come anywhere near my "target grade" I wanted to push myself to redpoint on this trip but since the aim was really actually to just push myself to try things that were difficult for me it was a big success and we had a shitload of fun, too.

I'll have pics in a bit.
two krewl, post up da pics.
RSMillburn is still sending in the alps, he'll send me the pics when he is back at base. I'll post 'em all for shizzle, but there aren't *that* many.


sungam


Oct 6, 2014, 5:10 AM
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donald949 wrote:
N udder knews, we made it out too da tetons yesterday. know skul day four da kids, sew take a road trip we did. we had whether roll through las weak, lots o rain here, but sum kool snow on the tetons. Even butter looking dan n da summer. wil has to post sum pic on stalk book.
xpost 'em here 2


donald949


Oct 7, 2014, 7:15 PM
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donald949 wrote:
N udder knews, we made it out too da tetons yesterday. know skul day four da kids, sew take a road trip we did. we had whether roll through las weak, lots o rain here, but sum kool snow on the tetons. Even butter looking dan n da summer. wil has to post sum pic on stalk book.
This should link...
https://www.facebook.com/...e=1&l=520f5d48c5


edge


Oct 8, 2014, 4:03 PM
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The favorable appraisal came in yesterday, I just signed Power of Attorney over to my wife, and all the ducks are in alignment. She will take care of the paperwork and accept the keys to our new home on Friday. Yippee!

Me? I fly out tomorrow noon to NYC then find a train north to help run two workshops over seven days, then rent a car for a whirlwind tour through Massholechusetts to see my son and then Cow Hampshire to visit the 'rents.

My truck is dying, so I will cut her rope soon after abusing her for humping loads 1800' up canyon to the new place. Our new mortgage is actually less than our current rent, and I will also be cutting out my monthly shop rent so a new truck payment won't sting quite so bad.

Life is good.


Gmburns2000


Oct 10, 2014, 7:08 AM
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edge wrote:
The favorable appraisal came in yesterday, I just signed Power of Attorney over to my wife, and all the ducks are in alignment. She will take care of the paperwork and accept the keys to our new home on Friday. Yippee!

Me? I fly out tomorrow noon to NYC then find a train north to help run two workshops over seven days, then rent a car for a whirlwind tour through Massholechusetts to see my son and then Cow Hampshire to visit the 'rents.

My truck is dying, so I will cut her rope soon after abusing her for humping loads 1800' up canyon to the new place. Our new mortgage is actually less than our current rent, and I will also be cutting out my monthly shop rent so a new truck payment won't sting quite so bad.

Life is good.

you gonna get some climbing in while you're out there? 'Gunks? Farley? Anywhere in NH?

Studio is just about organized. A few more things need to be settled but I started some repair work yesterday on some paintings that got a little damaged during the move. Shouldn't be a big deal. Also started finishing a simple-to-look-at painting but is actually very difficult to paint. One straight line is blended too much where red and yellow need to be completely separate but abutting each other. Fun times with turps.

Hot weather down here. Better than the rain we had before.

Yes, life is indeed good.


edge


Oct 10, 2014, 7:41 AM
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No time for climbing, besides I live in freaking Boulder now fer chrissakes. The East bored me. Angelic

Waiting in a hotel lobby about 20 miles from da Gunks for a taxi to take me to my destination for the week. I'm ready to put down this damned expedition pack and settle in while I await news of my hownownershipstatus.

Good luck with the studio set up. I have set up 3 shops of my own plus two more at schools and am looking forward to setting up my new and hopefully final studio in the upcoming month or two.


(This post was edited by edge on Oct 10, 2014, 7:42 AM)


Gmburns2000


Oct 11, 2014, 4:55 AM
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edge wrote:
No time for climbing, besides I live in freaking Boulder now fer chrissakes. The East bored me. Angelic

Waiting in a hotel lobby about 20 miles from da Gunks for a taxi to take me to my destination for the week. I'm ready to put down this damned expedition pack and settle in while I await news of my hownownershipstatus.

Yeah, but it's a destination! You gotta climb! (did I mention that Boulder bores me?)

In reply to:
Good luck with the studio set up. I have set up 3 shops of my own plus two more at schools and am looking forward to setting up my new and hopefully final studio in the upcoming month or two.

Thanks. It's small, much smaller than I thought it would be, but I'm actually really excited. For some strange reason, I feel professional now; as in, I'm doing something. It's kind of cool and productive all at the same time.


donald949


Oct 16, 2014, 7:51 PM
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fighting the water in the basement. the line going the sprinklers sprung a leak, found its way down to the window well. got the carpet in my sons room wet. Last month it was the rain.
basements...
Mad


donald949


Oct 16, 2014, 7:52 PM
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pt is going well. Progress is being made.


Gmburns2000


Oct 17, 2014, 5:29 AM
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donald949 wrote:
fighting the water in the basement. the line going the sprinklers sprung a leak, found its way down to the window well. got the carpet in my sons room wet. Last month it was the rain.
basements...
Mad


That sucks. Never heard of a sprinkler system flooding a basement before. Are these just flukes? In my experience, flooding basements are never easy to fix.

glad the PT is going well. You're approaching winter, so next year I expect to see some climbing pics. You now have your goals and deadline. Go forth and achieve!


Partner epoch
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Oct 17, 2014, 2:52 PM
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donald949 wrote:
fighting the water in the basement. the line going the sprinklers sprung a leak, found its way down to the window well. got the carpet in my sons room wet. Last month it was the rain.
basements...
Mad
Basements and western states don't go well together.


Gmburns2000


Oct 18, 2014, 6:15 AM
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epoch wrote:
donald949 wrote:
fighting the water in the basement. the line going the sprinklers sprung a leak, found its way down to the window well. got the carpet in my sons room wet. Last month it was the rain.
basements...
Mad
Basements and western states don't go well together.

not even sure they go well in the east without proper drainage around the house. However, I bet the central plains like them pretty well - especially when it gets a bit windy.


donald949


Oct 19, 2014, 8:17 PM
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Gmburns2000 wrote:
epoch wrote:
donald949 wrote:
fighting the water in the basement. the line going the sprinklers sprung a leak, found its way down to the window well. got the carpet in my sons room wet. Last month it was the rain.
basements...
Mad
Basements and western states don't go well together.

not even sure they go well in the east without proper drainage around the house. However, I bet the central plains like them pretty well - especially when it gets a bit windy.
The basement is finished, so the window wells are quite large. And they have French drains in the bottom. However, the grading around the window wells is pretty bad. slopes toward the house, not away. so we have some work to do to fix that. Looks like the line that tees off the main to go to the sprinkler systems is the guilty party. shut off the isolation valve and the ground started drying right up. It was pretty badly flooded around the house in that area, as the grading was wrong.
This part of Idaho is supposed to be desert.


donald949


Oct 19, 2014, 8:19 PM
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Gmburns2000 wrote:
donald949 wrote:
fighting the water in the basement. the line going the sprinklers sprung a leak, found its way down to the window well. got the carpet in my sons room wet. Last month it was the rain.
basements...
Mad


That sucks. Never heard of a sprinkler system flooding a basement before. Are these just flukes? In my experience, flooding basements are never easy to fix.

glad the PT is going well. You're approaching winter, so next year I expect to see some climbing pics. You now have your goals and deadline. Go forth and achieve!
Pt goes well, mostly. I have progressed to treadmill with min support. However, using my fingers for balance has strained the r index.


donald949


Oct 19, 2014, 8:21 PM
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donald949 wrote:
Gmburns2000 wrote:
donald949 wrote:
fighting the water in the basement. the line going the sprinklers sprung a leak, found its way down to the window well. got the carpet in my sons room wet. Last month it was the rain.
basements...
Mad


That sucks. Never heard of a sprinkler system flooding a basement before. Are these just flukes? In my experience, flooding basements are never easy to fix.

glad the PT is going well. You're approaching winter, so next year I expect to see some climbing pics. You now have your goals and deadline. Go forth and achieve!
Pt goes well, mostly. I have progressed to treadmill with min support. However, using my fingers for balance has strained the r index.
would be good to be climbing by the end of this year, or by mid feb. the one year mark of accident.


donald949


Oct 19, 2014, 8:22 PM
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donald949 wrote:
donald949 wrote:
Gmburns2000 wrote:
donald949 wrote:
fighting the water in the basement. the line going the sprinklers sprung a leak, found its way down to the window well. got the carpet in my sons room wet. Last month it was the rain.
basements...
Mad


That sucks. Never heard of a sprinkler system flooding a basement before. Are these just flukes? In my experience, flooding basements are never easy to fix.

glad the PT is going well. You're approaching winter, so next year I expect to see some climbing pics. You now have your goals and deadline. Go forth and achieve!
Pt goes well, mostly. I have progressed to treadmill with min support. However, using my fingers for balance has strained the r index.
would be good to be climbing by the end of this year, or by mid feb. the one year mark of accident.
that would be tr'n.

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