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unclipped draws accident analysis
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majid_sabet


Oct 30, 2014, 12:58 PM
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unclipped draws accident analysis
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This was posted on Rrock&Ice and its worth reading

As Crill started into the crux, he fell. Miller described what happened next in an e-mail to Rock and Ice: “I remember seeing him take a normal lead fall, then heard a series of popping sounds. I thought slings broke, the rope cut ... It all happened so fast.” Later, investigators would surmise that Crill’s fall ripped the RP and Ballnut. He had two good cams below, both equipped with shoulder-length, small-diameter slings—but somehow both rope-end carabiners unclipped from the slings. They were both wire-gate biners.

Crill hit the talus and broke many bones, mostly on the left side of his body. He also impacted his head and sustained injuries to his brain. Though he is continuing to improve, Crill is still not following commands, and is now in a long-term acute-care facility in Denver. He was wearing a helmet.

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http://www.rockandice.com/...news/the-unthinkable


lena_chita
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Oct 31, 2014, 7:31 AM
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Re: [majid_sabet] unclipped draws accident analysis [In reply to]
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Very sad. I hope he recovers.

It does seem improbable that two biners would unclip from slings in the same manner. But I guess once in a while even highly improbable things could happen.

I wonder if he was those little rubber pieces on his slings, the kind that can really obscure the fact that you are not really clipped into the sling, but the biner is held to the sling with just a little rubber piece... if you double /triple up the draws, and then unfold them without looking carefully.

I know this is pure speculation, as there was no mention of them at all. But I am thinking that a small rubber piece like that would fly off and nobody would notice, unless other slings were also equipped in the same manner.


amarius


Oct 31, 2014, 8:45 AM
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Re: [majid_sabet] unclipped draws accident analysis [In reply to]
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Tracking Wayne Crill Recovery

Mountain Project dot Com has a thread about the accident

Report is posted as well - Page 1, Page 2, Page 3, Page 4.


(This post was edited by amarius on Nov 5, 2014, 1:47 PM)


majid_sabet


Oct 31, 2014, 11:10 AM
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Re: [lena_chita] unclipped draws accident analysis [In reply to]
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sound silly but may be adding one or two locking biner every few draw is a cheap insurance against unclipping.


ClimbClimb


Nov 6, 2014, 8:55 AM
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Re: [majid_sabet] unclipped draws accident analysis [In reply to]
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For the accident report photos, that route also wanders quite a bit, which I presume makes something like this much more likely.

Very scary.


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