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nickrp
Feb 5, 2015, 1:25 AM
Post #1 of 6
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Registered: Aug 18, 2006
Posts: 129
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Hi all! So we are heading out to Joshua tree in a few weeks and I want to see if my current "rack" if you could call it that would work out there. Mainly looking to do some lower grade top ropes (5.5-5.8) or maybe some really low grade leads then set up a anchor up top for the other three climbers. I have climbed jtree 2-3 times but have only lead toe jam and that was with a borrowed rack. Again most of what we are looking for is top roping stuff. Let me know your opinions on my setup and if anything is missing that would be so crucial there that without it we would have a real tough time. Thanks in advance!!! I currently have the below: The basics (harness, Atc etc...). 9 locking biners 11 reg biners 8 quick draws 7 24" slings Bd nuts 4-13 Bd hexes 7-11 Bd c4 cams 1-2 100 ft webbing 60m dynamic rope. 200 ft rap rope (canyoneering rope) 200 ft retreaval rope "Sneaky peat" (webbing sling used to repel then you can retreave it from ground, again for canyoneering)
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kennoyce
Feb 5, 2015, 1:37 PM
Post #2 of 6
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Registered: Mar 6, 2001
Posts: 1338
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nickrp wrote: Hi all! So we are heading out to Joshua tree in a few weeks and I want to see if my current "rack" if you could call it that would work out there. Mainly looking to do some lower grade top ropes (5.5-5.8) or maybe some really low grade leads then set up a anchor up top for the other three climbers. I have climbed jtree 2-3 times but have only lead toe jam and that was with a borrowed rack. Again most of what we are looking for is top roping stuff. Let me know your opinions on my setup and if anything is missing that would be so crucial there that without it we would have a real tough time. Thanks in advance!!! I currently have the below: The basics (harness, Atc etc...). 9 locking biners 11 reg biners 8 quick draws 7 24" slings Bd nuts 4-13 Bd hexes 7-11 Bd c4 cams 1-2 100 ft webbing 60m dynamic rope. 200 ft rap rope (canyoneering rope) 200 ft retreaval rope "Sneaky peat" (webbing sling used to repel then you can retreave it from ground, again for canyoneering) I'd say the main thing you are missing is larger cams. A lot of the cracks for building anchors in on the tops of formations in J-tree tend to be quite wide. I'd suggest picking up at least 1 #3 and 1 #4 C4. I'm sure you can find things to do with your current rack, but having those two cams would open up a lot of other options. Have fun.
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nickrp
Feb 5, 2015, 2:29 PM
Post #3 of 6
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Registered: Aug 18, 2006
Posts: 129
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Thanks! Ill see if i can swing those before the trip!
kennoyce wrote: nickrp wrote: Hi all! So we are heading out to Joshua tree in a few weeks and I want to see if my current "rack" if you could call it that would work out there. Mainly looking to do some lower grade top ropes (5.5-5.8) or maybe some really low grade leads then set up a anchor up top for the other three climbers. I have climbed jtree 2-3 times but have only lead toe jam and that was with a borrowed rack. Again most of what we are looking for is top roping stuff. Let me know your opinions on my setup and if anything is missing that would be so crucial there that without it we would have a real tough time. Thanks in advance!!! I currently have the below: The basics (harness, Atc etc...). 9 locking biners 11 reg biners 8 quick draws 7 24" slings Bd nuts 4-13 Bd hexes 7-11 Bd c4 cams 1-2 100 ft webbing 60m dynamic rope. 200 ft rap rope (canyoneering rope) 200 ft retreaval rope "Sneaky peat" (webbing sling used to repel then you can retreave it from ground, again for canyoneering) I'd say the main thing you are missing is larger cams. A lot of the cracks for building anchors in on the tops of formations in J-tree tend to be quite wide. I'd suggest picking up at least 1 #3 and 1 #4 C4. I'm sure you can find things to do with your current rack, but having those two cams would open up a lot of other options. Have fun.
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nickrp
Feb 5, 2015, 2:50 PM
Post #4 of 6
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Registered: Aug 18, 2006
Posts: 129
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Question though, why wouldn't some of my bigger hex's suffice? I get Cams have more range of versatility but wouldnt my bigger hexes work for a lot of what a 3 and 4 cam would cover?
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kennoyce
Feb 5, 2015, 5:24 PM
Post #6 of 6
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Registered: Mar 6, 2001
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nickrp wrote: Question though, why wouldn't some of my bigger hex's suffice? I get Cams have more range of versatility but wouldnt my bigger hexes work for a lot of what a 3 and 4 cam would cover? They may suffice in some cases, The main problem with hexes is that you need a constriction or at the very least a parrellel crack of exactly the right size. I can think of numberous anchors I have built on the tops of J-Tree formations where the cracks end up being outwardly flaring and the direction of pull from the anchor is outward, which means there is no way to place a hex and have it work for the direction of pull. You could probably get by with just a 1, 2, and 3, but I really like having a 4 as well when I'm there.
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