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unrooted
Mar 4, 2015, 7:23 PM
Post #1 of 3
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Registered: Mar 13, 2003
Posts: 840
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I climb on relatively low angle terrain most of the time, like Owens river gorge, so even though I climb 11s and project 12's i get a really sore/tight upper back after hangboarding. I am doing a modified version of the Anderson brothers work out, I am using the "beginners" hangboard workout, but I am only doing 4 reps with 10 second hangs, 10 second rests and 2 minute rests between grip type, otherwise I can't finish the workout with the 6 reps. I also don't have the focus to do 5 second rests. . .
Should I be doing some other form of exercise to get my back into appropriate shape before I do the hangboarding?
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lena_chita
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Mar 4, 2015, 9:10 PM
Post #2 of 3
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Registered: Jun 27, 2006
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You can try asking the question on the Anderson brothers' website, they are really good at getting back to you.
But my 2c:
-- You probably should do some back/shoulder stretches after hangboard. And the book suggests doing a selection of general whole-body exercises after hangboard. Are you doing those? Any of them focusing on back and shoulders?
I usually start the hangboard session with a good warmup and ROM exercises (ideally warmup by climbing a couple of really easy routes +ROM, but if I can't climb, I warm up by hanging on different holds on the hangboard, not anything timed, just moving from hold to hold, as if i were climbing) And I also do 3 sets each of 10 pushups, hanging leg raises, and triceps dips at the end of hangboard session.
-- Are you using proper form while doing your hangboard workout? It is worth checking, if you are getting muscle soreness in the back. Maybe you are overextending the shoulders and relying too much on the back muscles? Ask somebody to look at you while you are hanging, if you can't tell.
-- Are you using pulley to subtract weight? I am surprised that you cannot complete the set with the beginner timing, if you are climbing 11s/12s, as you say. it seems to me that either you are using the holds that are too difficult for you, at this stage, and you need to change holds, or you are not subtracting enough weight, to start, and you should subtract more weight in the initial cycles, so you CAN finish the set, before you start gradually increasing weights. if you are trying something way harder than you should be at this point, that could account for back soreness.
--Timing and rep numbers are central to this type of workout, so if you are resting 2x longer than recommended, and you are not doing the recommended number of reps, then you are really short-charging yourself, and basically doing all this boring workout stuff for nothing... or not as much gains as you could be having, if you did it with proper timing and weight.
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djh860
May 1, 2015, 2:52 PM
Post #3 of 3
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Registered: Dec 6, 2011
Posts: 5
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I suggest stretching and also don't hang totally limp keep some tension and don't let you body go all the way down.
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