|
fitzontherocks
Mar 5, 2015, 8:48 PM
Post #1 of 10
(6081 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 11, 2003
Posts: 864
|
I'm attending a wedding in Jackson Labor Day weekend and wanted to make one good multi-pitch climb. Due to time limitation, it will have to be a one-day deal. Suggestions for easy to moderate routes? I've never climbed the area, so even the most basic information is appreciated (distance from town, access points, permits, etc.). Thanks.
|
|
|
|
|
olderic
Mar 6, 2015, 4:06 PM
Post #2 of 10
(6023 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 17, 2003
Posts: 1539
|
Need more information. How many pitches? What is "easy moderate" to you? Do you have any experience in alpine environments? Have you done any research into possibilities (or is this it?)?
That time if year (actually any time) it's going to be all about the current conditions/weather. Sounds like you are locked into a very tight schedule with little flexibility. You are going to need plans A,B and C.
Really you planning process should be about the same as it would be for going on any trip with a climbing component - do some ground work then ask questions.
Or I could give you the answer you hoped for - go to Death Canyon and do the Snaz. Or easier and more alpine - Guides' Wall. Easier still - Baxter's Pinnacle.
|
|
|
|
|
rgold
Mar 7, 2015, 2:47 AM
Post #3 of 10
(5975 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 3, 2002
Posts: 1804
|
A related question is whether you want to go to the summit of something or just climb on canyon walls. For summits, I'd suggest the Jensen Ridge of Symmetry Spire (not much of a summit) or the SW Ridge of Nez Perce (easier climbing, but more remote feel and much more of a summit.
|
|
|
|
|
fitzontherocks
Mar 16, 2015, 6:26 PM
Post #4 of 10
(5739 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 11, 2003
Posts: 864
|
Thanks, olderic and Rgold. A summit would be nice, but is not a must-do. More important is quality, view, the experience, setting, etc. And ease of access from Jackson Hole, where we're staying. I've done one alpine trip but really, most of my experience is cragging. I'm comfortable climbing 5.8-5.9 trad (5.10 sport), but my nephew has less experience (though, at 35, he's an accomplished back country skier, snowboarder and hiker). So "moderate" to me is 5.5-5.8 for the two of us. Since I have zero personal info on the area, anything you contribute is appreciated. And the weather... yes, we both realize that is key at this time of year (he lives in Washington State, while I'm a southerner). Thanks again, guys.
|
|
|
|
|
fitzontherocks
Mar 16, 2015, 6:32 PM
Post #5 of 10
(5736 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 11, 2003
Posts: 864
|
Olderic, one more thing... research. I've looked at RC.com's database and Mountain Project to a lesser degree. I think RC.com shows Grand Teton NP having something like 17 sections, with no maps, so it's hard to know where to start. And pitches... any length, really.
Guide book suggestions are welcome, also :)
|
|
|
|
|
rgold
Mar 16, 2015, 11:19 PM
Post #6 of 10
(5723 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 3, 2002
Posts: 1804
|
MP is going to be better than rc.com for route info. Probably the best guidebook would be a select:
https://www.climbingwyoming.com/...teton-national-park/
If you go to the referenced website, you can download a list of climbs by difficulty that will give you something to peruse. In my experience, Teton grades tend to be a bit soft compared to other areas (but I have no personal experience in the Tetons at 5.11 and above).
From what you've said, I think the direct south ridge of Nez Perce would be a fine adventure in a beautiful and somewhat remote setting with a nice summit and a scrambling descent with maybe a rappel or two. http://www.mountainproject.com/...outh-ridge/107757595. Mostly mid-grade and lower rock with some steeper steps up to (soft) 5.7 and a direct 5.8 variation (I don't know how hard it really is) at the top if you're feeling perky.
After getting off the NW Ledges, there will be a long trip down boulders and scree in September rather than the lovely glissade you get earlier in the season. The round trip is a long day from the valley floor and you definitely want to hike up to the platforms in Garnet Canyon by headlamp light in order to have all the daylight hours for climbing. If you are fast and get back for lunch, so much the better.
Another great option might be the Buckingham (SE) Ridge of Middle Teton. http://www.mountainproject.com/...m-se-ridge/105933421. The approach and descent are both longer (and, without snow, less fun) than Nez Perce, however, and a camp in Garnet Canyon might be advisable.
Please note that I'm very biased about these things and think that climbing some canyon wall in a mountain area is like going to Paris and dining at a McDonalds. It is one thing if you're there for weeks or come back year after year, but for a short visit you ought to sample what the area is really about. You can climb cliffs anywhere.
The Guide's wall is very popular but nothing special and ends part way up for almost all parties. I'd recommend Irene's Arete as a slightly harder but much nicer day climb in a more beautiful setting. It is also very popular. The Snaz is an excellent canyon wall climb that used to be 5.8 but now seems to be 5.10a thanks to grade inflation (or perhaps the addition of a harder top section we used to contour around). It really deserves better than the McDonald's analogy, but still, when in a mountain range, go climb a mountain.
Baxter's Pinnacle is a pimple on the long East Ridge of Symmetry Spire. If all you've got is an afternoon, fine, otherwise, shame on you  .
|
|
|
|
|
curt
Mar 17, 2015, 7:02 AM
Post #7 of 10
(5701 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 27, 2002
Posts: 18275
|
fitzontherocks wrote: I'm attending a wedding in Jackson Labor Day weekend and wanted to make one good multi-pitch climb. Due to time limitation, it will have to be a one-day deal. Suggestions for easy to moderate routes? I've never climbed the area, so even the most basic information is appreciated (distance from town, access points, permits, etc.). Thanks.
I'd suggest Irene's Arete. It's one of the best 5.8 climbs on the planet.
Curt
|
|
|
|
|
stagg54
Mar 17, 2015, 4:42 PM
Post #8 of 10
(5671 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 28, 2005
Posts: 190
|
A couple suggestions:
SE? Ridge of Disappointment Peak - 5.6
SE? ridge of Symettry Spire - 5.6
If you are feeling adventurous and want to get off the beaten path a little bit, try the Dike route on the Middle. It is quite striking. The route finding is very easy and obvious. If you want to do it in a day, you'll have to simuclimb some of it. It gets a 5.6 rating, but a lot of it is easier than that. The way down can be a little tricky, but just aim for ice flow lake.
|
|
|
|
|
marc801
Mar 17, 2015, 5:45 PM
Post #9 of 10
(5667 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 1, 2005
Posts: 2806
|
fitzontherocks wrote: Due to time limitation, it will have to be a one-day deal.
|
|
|
|
|
fitzontherocks
May 7, 2015, 2:33 PM
Post #10 of 10
(5184 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 11, 2003
Posts: 864
|
Talked to my nephew, whom I will meet and climb with. Seems like a day of cragging will be all we can do-- and it will be Thursday 3 September. Does that change any of the beta folks have kindly provided here? Thx
|
|
|
|
|
|
