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I'm Stuck-Indoor Climbing
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medicchick


May 27, 2015, 5:54 PM
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I'm Stuck-Indoor Climbing
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Hey guys!

I just started indoor climbing about a month ago (I don't know many people who climb, so I haven't been outdoors yet). I've been climbing very frequently and can see myself improving every time.

I was advised by a climber to start on the beginner routes and master those before starting the harder routes.

Recently, I feel like I've hit a wall. I can do all the beginner routes (white and yellow routes) in the gym without too much difficulty and my technique is better. The next level up (pink routes) I can, most of the time, not even complete. The grips are small for me and the holds are very spaced out. I've been working on my grip strength and certain ways to get from one hold to another, but I just feel very discouraged. I don't know why, from yellow to pink, is such a huge step for me.

I know that the climbers here are primarily outdoor climbers (which I'm hoping to do!), but if there is any advice that someone can offer me, I would be appreciative! Thank you Tongue


sbaclimber


May 28, 2015, 12:00 PM
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Re: [medicchick] I'm Stuck-Indoor Climbing [In reply to]
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Assuming this site doesn't completely collapse before you read this....

medicchick wrote:
I was advised by a climber to start on the beginner routes and master those before starting the harder routes.
This advice is for all intents and purposes "good", but it makes it sound like you don't really have a mentor or coach. That will make things hard every time you are faced with the jump to the next level of difficulty.
Technique is everything, but it does require a certain base-level of strength. If you understand the technique but lack the strength, then it is only a matter of training. If you don't even understand the technique, but have the strength, then some progress will be possible but extremely limited.

It sounds like you have reached the limit of what your strength and technique will allow you to climb. My advice is to start learning the technique necessary for the next "level". If you don't know anyone who climbs better than you, then just up and ask someone else who is climbing at that level. Some climbers might be jerks, but the vast majority of us (who are pretty average at best to begin with Tongue) are flattered to have someone ask us for advice. Or, just "lurk". Look at what other climbers do to climb a problem, and try to use the same technique. It will pretty quickly become clear if it is the technique that is lacking, or the strength, or both.

fwiw, it is most beneficial to climb with those who are better than you and are willing to teach!


iknowfear


May 29, 2015, 7:02 AM
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Re: [medicchick] I'm Stuck-Indoor Climbing [In reply to]
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medicchick wrote:
Hey guys!

I just started indoor climbing about a month ago (I don't know many people who climb, so I haven't been outdoors yet). I've been climbing very frequently and can see myself improving every time.

I was advised by a climber to start on the beginner routes and master those before starting the harder routes.

Recently, I feel like I've hit a wall. I can do all the beginner routes (white and yellow routes) in the gym without too much difficulty and my technique is better. The next level up (pink routes) I can, most of the time, not even complete. The grips are small for me and the holds are very spaced out. I've been working on my grip strength and certain ways to get from one hold to another, but I just feel very discouraged. I don't know why, from yellow to pink, is such a huge step for me.

I know that the climbers here are primarily outdoor climbers (which I'm hoping to do!), but if there is any advice that someone can offer me, I would be appreciative! Thank you Tongue

First of all, welcome to the climbing world.

You're only climbing for a month Relax, progress will come.
It certainly helps if you watch better climbers regarding technique, and ask them how to climb specific sections. Bouldering is great for that, as you can try specific sections again and again

And do not forget to rest enough between climbing days, muscles NEED rest to get stronger...

and do not forget to keep enjoying!


lena_chita
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May 29, 2015, 8:56 AM
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Re: [medicchick] I'm Stuck-Indoor Climbing [In reply to]
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medicchick wrote:
Hey guys!

I just started indoor climbing about a month ago (I don't know many people who climb, so I haven't been outdoors yet). I've been climbing very frequently and can see myself improving every time.

I was advised by a climber to start on the beginner routes and master those before starting the harder routes.

Recently, I feel like I've hit a wall. I can do all the beginner routes (white and yellow routes) in the gym without too much difficulty and my technique is better. The next level up (pink routes) I can, most of the time, not even complete. The grips are small for me and the holds are very spaced out. I've been working on my grip strength and certain ways to get from one hold to another, but I just feel very discouraged. I don't know why, from yellow to pink, is such a huge step for me.

I know that the climbers here are primarily outdoor climbers (which I'm hoping to do!), but if there is any advice that someone can offer me, I would be appreciative! Thank you Tongue

A month is a very short time. While your technique may be better now than it was a month ago, you will continue improving for many years, if you keep working on it.

In terms of particular routes, you need to get advice from people who are climbing them, not from the internet.

But remember, routes are set by people, difficulty is subjective and often varies from person to person, depending on your height, weight, flexibility, and so on. So yes, there might be a big jump in difficulty between an easy and a moderate route, depending on who set the routes and how they climb, compared to how you climb.

But maybe it only feels like a big gap, because you have never had to do a flag on an easy route, and the holds are positioned in a way that requires doing something other than pulling straight down, and so on. There also are fewer ways you can do any given sequence of moves on the harder routes, while on easy routes there are many extra footholds and handholds that allow for different people choosing different loves that capitalize on their strengths.

Bottom line is, keep trying different routes, keep trying to link moves on the routes you have tried already. Keep working on your technique, watch people who climb well, and ask for their advice on specific moves.
Sometimes very small adjustments make the difference.


jacques


Jun 1, 2015, 1:19 AM
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Re: [medicchick] I'm Stuck-Indoor Climbing [In reply to]
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medicchick wrote:
Hey guys!
Recently, I feel like I've hit a wall. I can do all the beginner routes (white and yellow routes) in the gym without too much difficulty and my technique is better. The next level up (pink routes) I can, most of the time, not even complete. The grips are small for me and the holds are very spaced out. I've been working on my grip strength and certain ways to get from one hold to another, but I just feel very discouraged. I don't know why, from yellow to pink, is such a huge step for me.

There is a two "wall" in climbing. the first one is at 5.9 and the second is at 5.11. It is because you change your technique fro three points of contact to two points of contacs, At this moment, you need your strenght to be able to do the move,. The other wall is from 5.10 to 5.11 where the person learn to use their body to make complex equilibrum (one point of contact). In trad, i will say that you most study the technique of the basic movement to be able to do complex one. In sport, people will learn to do complex movement in easy stuff, so they already know the technique of one point of contact. the pro is that they can climb higher grad rapidly and the con is that it is some time dangerous when they climb in trad because they don't know how to fall when a stopper can pop out.


sungam


Jun 3, 2015, 2:57 AM
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Re: [medicchick] I'm Stuck-Indoor Climbing [In reply to]
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I recommend gittin' gud.

When you reach the edge of your limit a small difference in difficulty can make something feel kinda untouchable, then a few months later that same route can feel pretty okay.

Just keep practising and bear[sp?] in mind:



granite_grrl


Jun 19, 2015, 12:43 PM
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Re: [medicchick] I'm Stuck-Indoor Climbing [In reply to]
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Reasonable advise in here. I will repeat that climbing with other people will, especially if they're better than you, will help you improve your technique drastically.

You may also consider getting a copy of the Self Coached Climber which does quite a good job at explaining the basic concepts of moving on the wall and also provides some technique drills.

And of course, stick with it! It can time to improve.


ajkclay


Jun 28, 2015, 3:56 AM
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Re: [jacques] I'm Stuck-Indoor Climbing [In reply to]
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jacques wrote:

There is a two "wall" in climbing. the first one is at 5.9 and the second is at 5.11. It is because you change your technique fro three points of contact to two points of contacs, At this moment, you need your strenght to be able to do the move,. The other wall is from 5.10 to 5.11 where the person learn to use their body to make complex equilibrum (one point of contact).

Haven't hit 5.13 yet then?

Wink


ajkclay


Jun 28, 2015, 4:07 AM
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Seriously though Medichick, you will hit plateaus all through your climbing. The reasons will vary and be dependent on all kinds of variables.

How long it takes you to break through those barriers will depend on whether you try different things or stick to what you know.

In fact, you can almost bet that if you are stuck at a grade barrier then the thing you've been working on won't be the solution.

Ask someone to watch your climbing and give you feedback. Best way hands down to work out what your weaknesses are.

Also, don't rush the strength, take your time. Climbing is very unforgiving for the impatient climber (injuries).

Last, talk to folks, make some friends, this too might take some time, but will have you climbing outdoors in no time :)

Cheers
Adam


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