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Sizing Shoes for Trad Climbing
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tequilaboom


Jul 8, 2015, 4:55 PM
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Sizing Shoes for Trad Climbing
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Hi folks,

I've been climbing in the Mythos, which over the years have molded perfectly to my feet (squished, but flat toes).

I'm looking to get something that will get me a bit more performance, but that I can wear while trad climbing (which for me, often involves standing on edges to place gear, and jamming in cracks).

Should I size my shoes so that my toes are flat? or should I have a slight curl in the toes? Any other shoe fit advice?

I'm only looking at flat shoes mostly (i.e. anasazi, techno x, and etc).

Thanks folks!


granite_grrl


Jul 9, 2015, 5:41 AM
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Re: [tequilaboom] Sizing Shoes for Trad Climbing [In reply to]
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My toes have a slight curl in my crack climbing shoes, but I think fit for this style of climbing is very personal. It also assumes that you're not trying to specialize in either tiny finger cracks or offwidths).

Also if you're going for more performance I would consider getting Velcro shoes. A more technical shoe probably won't be as comfortable so it's nice to have something you can slip on an off at the belay.


moose_droppings


Jul 10, 2015, 6:47 PM
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Re: [tequilaboom] Sizing Shoes for Trad Climbing [In reply to]
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Personally, I like a board lasted shoe with a good tight snug heel, nothing to tight in the toes, must be lace ups for me to set and remain fit. I don't need to remove mine at belays. I have weak ankles but my calfs are pretty strong from ice climbing. At the end of the day my feet aren't thrashed.


jorgegonzalez


Jul 15, 2015, 6:00 PM
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Re: [tequilaboom] Sizing Shoes for Trad Climbing [In reply to]
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Trad shoes should not hurt, they need to get you through the day, and maybe get you down too. Your mythos sound peeeerfect. I keep getting new shoes (velcro included) and go back to my 5.10s for trad everytime. Trad usually requires everything from edging to slabby friction, and you need to be able to plaster your toes against the rock when necessary.


markpaul


Aug 10, 2015, 10:46 AM
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Re: [tequilaboom] Sizing Shoes for Trad Climbing [In reply to]
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I would say it depends on how hard and what you're climbing. I usually climb trad in the Gunks and Mythos are fine up to 5.7. Once you start pushing through the 5.8s and into 5.10s they don't quite cut it. I use Miura lace-ups for all climbs above 5.8 and they are a tight fit, same exact number size as my Mythos. They took a while to break in but the performance is amazing.


sungam


Aug 11, 2015, 10:13 AM
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Re: [markpaul] Sizing Shoes for Trad Climbing [In reply to]
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I agree with markpaul, people who climb worse then me don't need aggressive shoes because they are scrubs and are just bumbling, but people who climb hard, like me, need sick sendmobiles for kicks.


curt


Nov 19, 2015, 7:47 PM
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Re: [sungam] Sizing Shoes for Trad Climbing [In reply to]
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sungam wrote:
I agree with markpaul, people who climb worse then me don't need aggressive shoes because they are scrubs and are just bumbling, but people who climb hard, like me, need sick sendmobiles for kicks.

Occasionally, I like to take n00bs bouldering in my approach shoes. Just cuz.Cool

Curt


Partner cracklover


Nov 20, 2015, 8:40 AM
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Re: [curt] Sizing Shoes for Trad Climbing [In reply to]
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curt wrote:
sungam wrote:
I agree with markpaul, people who climb worse then me don't need aggressive shoes because they are scrubs and are just bumbling, but people who climb hard, like me, need sick sendmobiles for kicks.

Occasionally, I like to take n00bs bouldering in my approach shoes. Just cuz.Cool

Curt

Woo! I bouldered hard enough that you had to put on your climbing shoes to give me a smackdown!

GO


sungam


Nov 21, 2015, 11:05 PM
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Re: [cracklover] Sizing Shoes for Trad Climbing [In reply to]
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cracklover wrote:
curt wrote:
sungam wrote:
I agree with markpaul, people who climb worse then me don't need aggressive shoes because they are scrubs and are just bumbling, but people who climb hard, like me, need sick sendmobiles for kicks.

Occasionally, I like to take n00bs bouldering in my approach shoes. Just cuz.Cool

Curt

Woo! I bouldered hard enough that you had to put on your climbing shoes to give me a smackdown!

GO
I can't actually remember if I did or not. I *think* I did? I hope I did.


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