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lena_chita
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Jul 16, 2015, 6:25 PM
Post #105026 of 105309
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snoopy138 wrote: climbs4fun wrote: Hi gerkz. Just catching up. The facebooker's know, but I'm moving to the Phoenix area (AKA the sun). Packing suuuuuuucks!!!!!!!! Lena, I left your book out to send to you. I promise    What's in F33nix, besides even more heat than Vegas?
Isn't curt there? And some climbzing? Maybe I'll visit F33nix, finally.
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camhead
Jul 16, 2015, 7:17 PM
Post #105027 of 105309
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lena_chita wrote: snoopy138 wrote: climbs4fun wrote: Hi gerkz. Just catching up. The facebooker's know, but I'm moving to the Phoenix area (AKA the sun). Packing suuuuuuucks!!!!!!!! Lena, I left your book out to send to you. I promise What's in F33nix, besides even more heat than Vegas? Isn't curt there? And some climbzing? Maybe I'll visit F33nix, finally.
Someone else is there too...
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climbs4fun
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Jul 17, 2015, 12:28 AM
Post #105028 of 105309
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snoopy138 wrote: climbs4fun wrote: Hi gerkz. Just catching up. The facebooker's know, but I'm moving to the Phoenix area (AKA the sun). Packing suuuuuuucks!!!!!!!! Lena, I left your book out to send to you. I promise What's in F33nix, besides even more heat than Vegas?
My dad passed away in March. My mom and the rest of the family is there
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climbs4fun
Moderator
Jul 17, 2015, 12:44 AM
Post #105029 of 105309
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granite_grrl wrote: climbs4fun wrote: Hi gerkz. Just catching up. The facebooker's know, but I'm moving to the Phoenix area (AKA the sun). Packing suuuuuuucks!!!!!!!! Lena, I left your book out to send to you. I promise w00t! How long have you been at your current place? It's been quite a while it I recall. I'm trying to start packing stuff up at my little apartment and already feeling overwhelmed. You're got a lot more to do than I do!
Little over 4 years
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lena_chita
Moderator
Jul 17, 2015, 2:52 PM
Post #105030 of 105309
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climbs4fun wrote: snoopy138 wrote: climbs4fun wrote: Hi gerkz. Just catching up. The facebooker's know, but I'm moving to the Phoenix area (AKA the sun). Packing suuuuuuucks!!!!!!!! Lena, I left your book out to send to you. I promise What's in F33nix, besides even more heat than Vegas? My dad passed away in March. My mom and the rest of the family is there
I am sorry. It's good that you are able to move closer to the family. How is the jorb situation, with the move? Being self-employed is good?
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climbs4fun
Moderator
Jul 18, 2015, 3:57 AM
Post #105031 of 105309
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lena_chita wrote: climbs4fun wrote: snoopy138 wrote: climbs4fun wrote: Hi gerkz. Just catching up. The facebooker's know, but I'm moving to the Phoenix area (AKA the sun). Packing suuuuuuucks!!!!!!!! Lena, I left your book out to send to you. I promise What's in F33nix, besides even more heat than Vegas? My dad passed away in March. My mom and the rest of the family is there I am sorry. It's good that you are able to move closer to the family. How is the jorb situation, with the move? Being self-employed is good?
I'm self employed although by the Department of labor's most recent ruling, that could be debated. We do have an office in Scottsdale, but I'm not sure that I won't just go work for somebody else. Regular paycheck would be good. Hell, a paycheck would be good at this point .
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wanderlustmd
Jul 20, 2015, 4:31 AM
Post #105032 of 105309
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camhead wrote: Sooo, since I'm newly single and just psyched on teh climb... anyone interested in some sort of Southwest meetup this winter? Might just pack myself into the Tacoma and live out there for a couple months, especially if this new freelance writing gig keeps producing. I was just looking at Lime Kiln Canyon (UT/AZ/NV borderlands), and that place looks amazing!
And, hi to all!
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granite_grrl
Jul 20, 2015, 1:00 PM
Post #105033 of 105309
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wanderlustmd wrote: camhead wrote: Sooo, since I'm newly single and just psyched on teh climb... anyone interested in some sort of Southwest meetup this winter? Might just pack myself into the Tacoma and live out there for a couple months, especially if this new freelance writing gig keeps producing. I was just looking at Lime Kiln Canyon (UT/AZ/NV borderlands), and that place looks amazing! Keep me in the loop on FB, I have a week in Feb and one in April. I'm reading your book, it's taking forever because I am sloe in t3h hed. And, hi to all!
*waves*
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epoch
Moderator
Jul 20, 2015, 2:14 PM
Post #105034 of 105309
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wanderlustmd wrote: camhead wrote: Sooo, since I'm newly single and just psyched on teh climb... anyone interested in some sort of Southwest meetup this winter? Might just pack myself into the Tacoma and live out there for a couple months, especially if this new freelance writing gig keeps producing. I was just looking at Lime Kiln Canyon (UT/AZ/NV borderlands), and that place looks amazing! Keep me in the loop on FB, I have a week in Feb and one in April. I'm reading your book, it's taking forever because I am sloe in t3h hed. And, hi to all!
*waves*
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camhead
Jul 20, 2015, 2:22 PM
Post #105035 of 105309
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wanderlustmd wrote: camhead wrote: Sooo, since I'm newly single and just psyched on teh climb... anyone interested in some sort of Southwest meetup this winter? Might just pack myself into the Tacoma and live out there for a couple months, especially if this new freelance writing gig keeps producing. I was just looking at Lime Kiln Canyon (UT/AZ/NV borderlands), and that place looks amazing! Keep me in the loop on FB, I have a week in Feb and one in April. I'm reading your book, it's taking forever because I am sloe in t3h hed. And, hi to all!
Keep in touch with Feb. By April I'll be back to the NRG, but hopefully awl of January and Feb will be good. Really hoping the Creek will be warm enough.
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lena_chita
Moderator
Jul 20, 2015, 2:55 PM
Post #105036 of 105309
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weak-end report:
No rock touching whatsoever has occurred in the past week. Potluck on Saturday was fun, Ed no longer turns white and faints while wiggling his fingers in the sling, lots of pool time with lots of kids all weekend (I think there are 3-5 kids in my house, give or take, they fluctuate between the house and the pool, consume everything in the fridge, and occasionally weed my garden).
Went to see Inside Out with 3 of the kids yesterday. It was adorable, and awesome! I heard a lot of good things about it, but I was expecting the regular good-fun-for-kids Pixar production, did not expect to cry... but I did.
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caughtinside
Jul 20, 2015, 3:38 PM
Post #105037 of 105309
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I thought Inside Out was ok, but people seem to be fresking out about it. It's no finding nemo.
I am not teh target though.
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granite_grrl
Jul 20, 2015, 5:14 PM
Post #105038 of 105309
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Not much to report here. Looked at bathroom stuff on Saturday and did a few other chores. Was too hot outside to do much of anything so mostly sat in central air bliss and did a bit of climbing in the basement on Sunday.
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lena_chita
Moderator
Jul 20, 2015, 5:56 PM
Post #105039 of 105309
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caughtinside wrote: I thought Inside Out was ok, but people seem to be fresking out about it. It's no finding nemo. I am not teh target though.
I thought Finding Nemo was meh. Or rather exactly-as-expected good kids movie with a few laughs for the parents.
I was expecting the same from Inside Out, but i liked it way more than I was expecting to like it, when I walked into the movie theater.
Haven't heard anyone freaking out about it though. what do people freak out about?
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caughtinside
Jul 20, 2015, 8:32 PM
Post #105040 of 105309
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Oh, they are freaking over how good it is. It's been called the best animated film ever.
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snoopy138
Jul 21, 2015, 12:16 AM
Post #105041 of 105309
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Well, while you guise were watching your animated filmz, I went to the hole on Sunday morning. Was able to get a 2-hang run in on the drive-by, which is not bad for having not been there in 4 or 5 months.
Nobody else was there other than the couple from the gym that I brought along. Folks have definitely been there, though ... when I started up the warmup, I was rather surprised (but maybe not that surprised) to find that the positive edge of the crimp that I matched on to the left of the third bolt was gone. It's still useable as a left hand, but not as a match, so I had to use the standard beta. It's not a huge deal, except if you are short and dependent on the match.
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camhead
Jul 21, 2015, 11:23 AM
Post #105042 of 105309
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snoopy138 wrote: Well, while you guise were watching your animated filmz, I went to the hole on Sunday morning. Was able to get a 2-hang run in on the drive-by, which is not bad for having not been there in 4 or 5 months. Nobody else was there other than the couple from the gym that I brought along. Folks have definitely been there, though ... when I started up the warmup, I was rather surprised (but maybe not that surprised) to find that the positive edge of the crimp that I matched on to the left of the third bolt was gone. It's still useable as a left hand, but not as a match, so I had to use the standard beta. It's not a huge deal, except if you are short and dependent on the match.
Who are these assholes breaking all those holds at the Hole? Inconsiderate.
I've started the hangboredom. Even with the dehumidifier I can only get the humidity down to 40% here in the Fayettenam cabin, though, ugh
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snoopy138
Jul 21, 2015, 3:49 PM
Post #105043 of 105309
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camhead wrote: snoopy138 wrote: Well, while you guise were watching your animated filmz, I went to the hole on Sunday morning. Was able to get a 2-hang run in on the drive-by, which is not bad for having not been there in 4 or 5 months. Nobody else was there other than the couple from the gym that I brought along. Folks have definitely been there, though ... when I started up the warmup, I was rather surprised (but maybe not that surprised) to find that the positive edge of the crimp that I matched on to the left of the third bolt was gone. It's still useable as a left hand, but not as a match, so I had to use the standard beta. It's not a huge deal, except if you are short and dependent on the match. Who are these assholes breaking all those holds at the Hole? Inconsiderate.
did you make a surprise visit over the summer?
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lena_chita
Moderator
Jul 21, 2015, 3:50 PM
Post #105044 of 105309
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camhead wrote: snoopy138 wrote: Well, while you guise were watching your animated filmz, I went to the hole on Sunday morning. Was able to get a 2-hang run in on the drive-by, which is not bad for having not been there in 4 or 5 months. Nobody else was there other than the couple from the gym that I brought along. Folks have definitely been there, though ... when I started up the warmup, I was rather surprised (but maybe not that surprised) to find that the positive edge of the crimp that I matched on to the left of the third bolt was gone. It's still useable as a left hand, but not as a match, so I had to use the standard beta. It's not a huge deal, except if you are short and dependent on the match. Who are these assholes breaking all those holds at the Hole? Inconsiderate. I've started the hangboredom. Even with the dehumidifier I can only get the humidity down to 40% here in the Fayettenam cabin, though, ugh
I'm about to start hangboredom next week. Might wait for the first week of August though... no sense peaking while it is still too hot, and I won't be able to do campusing until the gym cools down a bit, anyway.
Need to mount my hangbored back. (I took it to the gym last winter, bc in winter I can hang bored at the gym, and it is nicer, bc I can do a good warmup for it. But there is no way I can do it at the gym in August, the air conditioning being absent, and awl).
I got it washed in the hold-washing machine before I took it home, cleaned all the pizza grease from the warmup hods, so it is nice and clean again. And Ed has the DRCC board, so between the rockprodigy and the DRCC I'm pretty happy.
Dunno exactly what holds I would use to rehab the finger. I was pretty happy with it in Xzzz, the pulley doesn't hurt anymore, but the finger is so freaking weak. As soon as the finger was isolated, it sucked. But monos don't seem like a good idea! And besides, it's not like I would need mono pockets at the Red.
Ideas?
(This post was edited by lena_chita on Jul 21, 2015, 3:52 PM)
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camhead
Jul 21, 2015, 4:51 PM
Post #105045 of 105309
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lena_chita wrote: camhead wrote: snoopy138 wrote: Well, while you guise were watching your animated filmz, I went to the hole on Sunday morning. Was able to get a 2-hang run in on the drive-by, which is not bad for having not been there in 4 or 5 months. Nobody else was there other than the couple from the gym that I brought along. Folks have definitely been there, though ... when I started up the warmup, I was rather surprised (but maybe not that surprised) to find that the positive edge of the crimp that I matched on to the left of the third bolt was gone. It's still useable as a left hand, but not as a match, so I had to use the standard beta. It's not a huge deal, except if you are short and dependent on the match. Who are these assholes breaking all those holds at the Hole? Inconsiderate. I've started the hangboredom. Even with the dehumidifier I can only get the humidity down to 40% here in the Fayettenam cabin, though, ugh . I'm about to start hangboredom next week. Might wait for the first week of August though... no sense peaking while it is still too hot, and I won't be able to do campusing until the gym cools down a bit, anyway. Need to mount my hangbored back. (I took it to the gym last winter, bc in winter I can hang bored at the gym, and it is nicer, bc I can do a good warmup for it. But there is no way I can do it at the gym in August, the air conditioning being absent, and awl). I got it washed in the hold-washing machine before I took it home, cleaned all the pizza grease from the warmup hods, so it is nice and clean again. And Ed has the DRCC board, so between the rockprodigy and the DRCC I'm pretty happy. Dunno exactly what holds I would use to rehab the finger. I was pretty happy with it in Xzzz, the pulley doesn't hurt anymore, but the finger is so freaking weak. As soon as the finger was isolated, it sucked. But monos don't seem like a good idea! And besides, it's not like I would need mono pockets at the Red. Ideas?
For finger rehab, there are a couple ways you can mix it up to see how much injured finger can take. Hang with the injured finger on one hard hold, while doing a full four finger edge on the other. Or try different "spock" holds, in which you have two fingers in one pocket, and two in another, if that makes sense.
July is kind of early for hanging bored, but I'm not looking for a strict "peak," since I'm wanting to climb moderately hard from October to March. I'm just going to do a six week cycle, then GRADUALLY get the power endurance back mostly by getting on projects in September, and less with pure campusing. We'll see.
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lena_chita
Moderator
Jul 21, 2015, 5:38 PM
Post #105046 of 105309
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camhead wrote: lena_chita wrote: camhead wrote: snoopy138 wrote: Well, while you guise were watching your animated filmz, I went to the hole on Sunday morning. Was able to get a 2-hang run in on the drive-by, which is not bad for having not been there in 4 or 5 months. Nobody else was there other than the couple from the gym that I brought along. Folks have definitely been there, though ... when I started up the warmup, I was rather surprised (but maybe not that surprised) to find that the positive edge of the crimp that I matched on to the left of the third bolt was gone. It's still useable as a left hand, but not as a match, so I had to use the standard beta. It's not a huge deal, except if you are short and dependent on the match. Who are these assholes breaking all those holds at the Hole? Inconsiderate. I've started the hangboredom. Even with the dehumidifier I can only get the humidity down to 40% here in the Fayettenam cabin, though, ugh . I'm about to start hangboredom next week. Might wait for the first week of August though... no sense peaking while it is still too hot, and I won't be able to do campusing until the gym cools down a bit, anyway. Need to mount my hangbored back. (I took it to the gym last winter, bc in winter I can hang bored at the gym, and it is nicer, bc I can do a good warmup for it. But there is no way I can do it at the gym in August, the air conditioning being absent, and awl). I got it washed in the hold-washing machine before I took it home, cleaned all the pizza grease from the warmup hods, so it is nice and clean again. And Ed has the DRCC board, so between the rockprodigy and the DRCC I'm pretty happy. Dunno exactly what holds I would use to rehab the finger. I was pretty happy with it in Xzzz, the pulley doesn't hurt anymore, but the finger is so freaking weak. As soon as the finger was isolated, it sucked. But monos don't seem like a good idea! And besides, it's not like I would need mono pockets at the Red. Ideas? For finger rehab, there are a couple ways you can mix it up to see how much injured finger can take. Hang with the injured finger on one hard hold, while doing a full four finger edge on the other. Or try different "spock" holds, in which you have two fingers in one pocket, and two in another, if that makes sense. July is kind of early for hanging bored, but I'm not looking for a strict "peak," since I'm wanting to climb moderately hard from October to March. I'm just going to do a six week cycle, then GRADUALLY get the power endurance back mostly by getting on projects in September, and less with pure campusing. We'll see.
Yeah, I was thinking "Spock-like" for some holds. It is hard though, the pockets are too far apart on the trango board... might be able to do it on DRCC.
I am hoping for a longish season, too. But we'll see.
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lena_chita
Moderator
Jul 30, 2015, 3:10 PM
Post #105047 of 105309
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Got my hangboards mounted in preparation for starting the bored-hanging next week.
How is it possible that Ed standing on the ground can still reach higher than me standing on a chair? Not fair! Fortunately, I don't need the jugs on the top of the hangboard, anyway...
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snoopy138
Aug 1, 2015, 2:02 AM
Post #105048 of 105309
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lena_chita wrote: Got my hangboards mounted in preparation for starting the bored-hanging next week. How is it possible that Ed standing on the ground can still reach higher than me standing on a chair? Not fair! Fortunately, I don't need the jugs on the top of the hangboard, anyway...
yore chair is two small.
btw, went to Echo last weke end in the heat, was okay in the shade. did several runs on Buried Treasure, figuring it's probibly the closest thing to Ceuse I could find nearby in socak. headed to the old gnu way too early tomorrow.
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granite_grrl
Aug 2, 2015, 5:42 PM
Post #105049 of 105309
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In Nova Scotia. Wedding last night. Family fun and debauchery.
That is awl.
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cracklover
Aug 3, 2015, 1:26 PM
Post #105050 of 105309
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Wekend report: Found a way to beat this horrible heat. Full moon climbing at the Gunks Saturday. Very fun.
Also, crabbing at high tide. Was knee to waist deep in water much of the time. Kept quite cool despite 90 degree temps.
GO
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