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pmagistro
Jan 10, 2003, 2:35 PM
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Registered: May 7, 2002
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Couple of friends and I are headed down to the New this weekend. I've never got past Seneca when going south to climb...so I'm looking for suggestions on moderate (5.6-5. trad lines that stay pretty dry and get sun for most or part of the day. Any thoughts?
thanks!
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edgelounger
Jan 10, 2003, 7:03 PM
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if you get there early then Conn's East is primo. if you want to avoid Conn's East's first wide pitch do Conn's East Direct Start. the sun leaves the east face ~1'ish. carry your stuff and rap the east face for more sunny climbing...
pm me for more details if you want...
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tim
Jan 10, 2003, 7:21 PM
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Ummm, the poster was asking about routes at the New River Gorge... unless there's a Conn's East at the New, I think you might be confused.
I enjoyed the Central Endless wall the one time I made it to the New, but I'm afraid that the section we were on was in the shade pretty much all day. Horst's guidebook may be helpful, I found the canonical NRG guidebook to be very hard to understand.
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pmagistro
Jan 13, 2003, 7:42 PM
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Yeah...I was asking about the New, not Seneca. Thanks anyhow!
So anyhow, we did manage to find some really comfortable temps on Junkyard Wall around New Yosemite (really splitter!) and over in the Bubba areas. Definitely stay away from the bridge area (esp Jaws) in the AM....froze my feet pretty badly over there.
All in all a good trip....pics to come.
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maverick10
Jan 14, 2003, 3:03 PM
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Good Traditional Routes at the new, well these should seem really easy for the grade if you are a seneca man.
The Bridge is a good Place for trad lines:
Tree Route at 5.10a is good, its a broken crack and corner system, really classic.
Easily Flakey at 5.7 is the classic guide route, as long as your have your $#!& together.
Zag is really hard for 5.8, hard to protect
The Layback is right on for 5.9, one move wonder.
Out at Endless:
Grafenberg Crack is quite good, (5.9)
Fantasy at 5.8 is a stellar handcrack
Premarital is scarey for 5.9 if you bail over to the shuts on through the never, but a good, long lead.
Prowes is a two pitch 5.9, that is quite good
Smooth Operator is a classic 5.9
There are just so many good routes, oh, don't forget, probably the best route in the gorge : Party in My Mind, at 5.10b, "one bolt protects the start" This one is kinda sketchy, so don't do it unless you're solid on 5.10. "or seneca 5.9"
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one900johnnyk
Jan 14, 2003, 4:12 PM
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Registered: Oct 23, 2002
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i thought the new was mostly sport! This changes everything.
would anyone recommend the climber's guide (falcon i think) that ocvers md, va, and wv ??? horst is familiar as the author? not certain about that though. thanks
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leaverbiner
Jan 14, 2003, 4:22 PM
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Registered: Sep 18, 2002
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The New has tons of trad, it just doesn't get as much press or attention because of its reputation as a sport mecca . . . I think that the older guides, horst's and New River Rock have more of the trad lines than the newer Steve Cater guide, but steve's guide is much better if you are planning on doing sport.
Waterstone (formerly Blueridge Outdoors) in fayetteville, should be able to hook you up with any of the guides and probably lots of info. not in the guides.
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edgelounger
Jan 15, 2003, 9:31 PM
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Registered: Aug 19, 2002
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whoops....
have you done the combo i mentioned? perhaps the universe was telling us something...
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charley
Jan 15, 2003, 10:56 PM
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Registered: Apr 13, 2002
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John,
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dbrayack
Jan 22, 2003, 9:37 PM
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Registered: Dec 16, 2002
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Rico's guide is the best for traditional and sport routes, its a little bit hard to follow, but very complete. The new Cater guide does a good job with most of the sport routes, but is lacking for trad routes, also some of the sport routes have been left out, but its light and cheaper.
The sport climbing is really good and so is the trad climbing, its a happy balance for the sport weenie and trad meister.
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