Dec 2, 2015, 10:47 AM
Post #1 of 1
Registered: Mar 21, 2007
This Dictionary is is a work in progress.
Picked Out Grade Dictionary
Herd The term refers to a large zombie herd of mindless beings in the popular TV series “The Walking Dead”. This is also the mass assault of dozens of parties to a single climb. Usually used by cranky old timers
Traffic: This is an indicator of the of how many parties have covered that ground and the devastation that was left in their wake. Traffic is the most common cause of a climb achieving a higher Picked Out Grade. Successive ascents leave well defined hooking placements making then ascent of the ice require a handicap also known as the Picked Out Grade
Peg Board: First known use of this term on a regular bases was by Andy Shaw formally from ExShaw and 25 year Ghost climber. It refers to ice that has had the extreme crap beat out of it to the point that you are allowing your tools to drift up aimlessly and grab a hook anytime you felt like it. Slightly harder then the mythical grade PO-5 or the rumoured but never proven PO-6.
Geezer: Some one who self identifies as such. Willing to take hard lead when others won’t but sensitive enough to enjoy a romp up a grade two. Buys flowers on Valentine’s and wouldn’t think of kicking a kitten in front of an inquisitive child. Also enjoys the motion and fluid movement of the human form.
WI Grade The wi is actually a invention of Jeff Lowe. It stands for water ice it is included into the grading system so that climbers from California and New Mexico and other climes where ice seldom forms (Squamish comes to mind ) they will have an idea of what the ice is made of.
The first use in Canada was in the american guidebook writer Joe Josephson used it in his 1994 edition of Waterfall Ice in the Canadian Rockies.
Hooking: While this is a very pluralistic term in the sense that a ice climber can be both physically making a living professionally as a hooker and/or reaching up to a pre-built tool placement in the ice effortlessly gaining a handicap or a chink in the icefalls armour. This results an a reassessment of the climbs overall difficulty.
( See PO Grading )
Step Ladder/Ladder: This is refers to ice that forces one into a ladder style of ascent. Step ladders can be steep requiring side by side tool and foot placements. On lower angle solid climbers often leapfrog their tools in true step ladder motion.
Zombie: Zombie is a single member of the herd. Often doesn’t have a clue what they are doing however pretty willing to toss out advice with or without solicitation. Does not abide by the unwritten code of climbing ethics and mindlessly sets up a top rope on the first pitch of a popular multi-pitch climb. Most times they are quite easy to spot as there is a lot of shine barely used equipment, though most often you can tell when they speak their first sentence.
Plus/Minus: Most commonly the mathematical symbol is added to a routes grade to better express the expected difficulty. Best represents a half grade. a WI GR 3+ does quite not make it hard enough to be a 4. If your having trouble with this it may be a good time to consider wearing a helmut while ice climbing. This grade ma also be designated to a PO grade.
Noob/Gumby: This is also known as a newbie. This is somebody who has just started in the climbing game. They are well intended individuals but just lack the knowledge to have the polished look of a seasoned vet, many zombies are noobs but are hyper compensating for their lack of experience by being obnoxious.
Picked Out: This refers to a ice climb that has seen a number of climbers on it. The term often refers to the most traveled which is ascended by the herd. A ice climb may have a number of lines with a variety of picked out grades signed to it. A multi pitch climb may have various PO grades assigned to it. The PO grade is for a route is often assigned to the crux grade and indicates the most technical climbing that one could expect on the route.
Cattle Path: Often a virtual trail leading up the icefall. Often associated with the PO4 grade. A climb that has had the the life taken out of it.
Screamer: While this is often associated with either a load limiting runner or someone who is very vocal during sexual intercourse. As it pertains to PO grading it is some one who yells “Ice” every time a stray chip or hint of ice no matter how small. They are obvious by their nervous ambience and the fact they scream “ice” followed by “ice” every 3 to ten seconds. While harmless and annoying they do have the ability to make one immune to the warning of ice fall.
This is a definition of the Picked Out Grade
PO-0: This is a virgin ice climb that has yet to taste steel and/or has heeled itself to the point that it leaves no trace of a prior ascent. This will depend of a lot of environmental conditions and the amount of traffic often directly related to distance from trailhead. However a high quality climb may still see considerable traffic.
PO-1: Here the may be nothing more then a couple usable pre-made tool placements but a bit of the chandelier ice has been cleaned and perhaps a few of the hanging icicles that you could have dropped on your partner are no longer present.
PO-2: This is really an extension or PO-1 but to a slightly greater degree. Signs of travel are present and former ice screw placements may be present and possibly utilized.
PO-3: This is the point where the handicap system really takes place. You can now freely utilize the drafting mechanism. 40% of your hand tool placements are a gimme requiring almost no swinging to build a firm purchase. When you feel the need to place a screw you can choose from one or two of the pre-placed holes that other climbers have constructed for you or build your own. Foot placements have become slightly obvious. This often follows the most obvious line as a result receives the most ascends by the herd.
PO-4: Everybody who has climbed for any length of time know a climb that fits the following description. You have pretty much entered the realm of peg-board climbing! You have to build no more then 1 or 2 placements and thats only because your glass eye’s have fogged up. The main issue is that one in every 10 moves may require you switch tools from one hand to the other. Foot placements are obvious to the point that you have a very distinct feeling that you are on a ladder. The only exception to the rule is that if your 4 foot nothing or seven feet tall you may have to shuffle things around a bit to get to that optional foot placement you are searching for. The standard right hand screw placement is nearly (if not) impossible. Lefties may still be left with this option.
PO-5: It should be said that this is a almost mythical grade. One has to be careful before lowering a guidebook grade by -2.5 grades.
Here it no longer matters what your shape/size is. You can no longer place a new pick hole as there is no possible place to put one. The main challenge here is to choose between the seemingly endless amount of pick holes. The foot placements are so well defined that if you place your front points against the ice it suddenly feels overhanging. You also no longer have the option of placing a screw into fresh ice as the is no possible way you can get one in on either hand placement.
Mor einformation on the new Canadian grading system can be found here