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simontsj
Oct 22, 2018, 11:26 PM
Post #1 of 2
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Registered: Jul 5, 2009
Posts: 4
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Hey! I spent two months in EPC almost 10 years ago, so know that its a lot of vertical 5.10ish technical crimping.
I've been out of shape for a while but got back into it last month and am climbing 5.11s in the gym and V4s, and probably will be climbing gym 12a's in November, but how would y'all optimize for this trip?
- Hangboards on small crimps?
- Volume on easier stuff (Time Wave Zero is attractive!)?
- General switching between bouldering and rope climbing to balance between building strength and endurance?
- Would you go really hard and take a week off before the trip to rest up?
- Take on the hardest/most exciting climbs in the beginning or at the end of the trip?
- Use a little or a lot of anti-hydral? :)
Thanks for any and all wisdom!
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johnwesely
Aug 10, 2021, 3:09 PM
Post #2 of 2
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Registered: Jun 13, 2006
Posts: 5360
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If you train too much for EPC, the climbing might be too easy. The best bet is to get as week as possible to enhance your excitement.
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