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geezergecko
Jan 16, 2003, 2:28 AM
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"Climbing Anchors" by John Long has 2 pages devoted to tri-cams (pgs 30,31).
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birdbreak
Jan 16, 2003, 5:33 AM
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Thanks for the useful resources
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djmeat
Jan 16, 2003, 5:40 PM
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why do tricams get so little lip service?? I read post after post about stoppers, nuts, hexes, camelots, bird beaks, and pitons. but never hear a peep about tricams??
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tcollins
Jan 16, 2003, 6:02 PM
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DJ I saw you say that elsewhere too. There a bunch of threads on tri cams here, especially the pink. I think there is even an ode. They aren't as widely known as other forms of gear, in a way they are almost a regional thing, quite common up here in the NE. A buddy of mine in OR has climbed much longer than I and never placed one.
TD
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bandycoot
Jan 16, 2003, 6:17 PM
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tricams are harder to place than a cam. They weigh more than their respective cam size. Most places a tricam would work, a cam works too, and cams feel better in horizontal cracks. These are the reasons that they get little lip service. I don't own them because they aren't that helpful on granite. Some areas eat them up, but where I'm from doesn't. They are regional. It's like some climbs eat hexes, while others don't. Not that tricams aren't great, they just aren't great enough to make many people's racks.
Josh
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sspssp
Jan 16, 2003, 7:05 PM
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There are good and bad things about Tri-cams, but I have to disagree that they weigh more than cams.
Unless the catalogs are wrong, the small tricams are about a third the weight of the same size cam. Medium sized ones are about two-thirds and large ones are about half.
If tricams were to be re-engineered to todays standards, they would no doubt be much lighter still. But the market is probably to small to justify the costs.
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no_limit
Jan 16, 2003, 7:08 PM
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Page 225 of mountaineering freedom of the hills 6th edition has info on placing tri cams
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cedk
Jan 16, 2003, 7:09 PM
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Tricams kick ass in the horizontal dude. Don't worry about breaking or bending that stem because there isn't one.
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lazide
Jan 16, 2003, 7:16 PM
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Small correction - tricams are almost always lighter than a cam in the same range. (only place that might night be correct is in the way larger sizes - which almost no one ever uses)
Chart at the bottom of the page with ranges/weights:
http://www.shorelinemtn.com/store/prodinfo.asp?number=NT-0503-03&variation=&aitem=1&mitem=1
Most common sizes people buy:
pink, red, brown, in that order.
I have so far climbed in: southern canadian granite, kentucky sandstone, joshua tree granite. Been able to find placements in all three spots, often placements a cam would be marginal to insecure in. *shrug*
I think it is like hexes - once you know how to place them, you often find all sorts of placements you otherwise miss
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onbelay_osu
Jan 16, 2003, 7:52 PM
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As a newbie to the Trad world i have no issues with Tri cams, infact i perfer them over cams, and feel much safer with a tri cam placement than a regular cam placement
I climb exclusivly on granite and have no prob with thier placements
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deafclimber
Jan 16, 2003, 8:08 PM
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tri-cams surely work better in the different placements. last saturday i fell almost 25ft, but tricam #3 on vertical crack saved me. i weigh 220 lbs. tricams are bombers.
[ This Message was edited by: deafclimber on 2003-01-16 12:12 ]
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tanner
Jan 16, 2003, 8:12 PM
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tri-cams are one of the best types of pro out there in the smaller sizes It the sizes pink to blue there are awsome. They are light cheep and fit any place a cam would and more. They are also very easy to place in the smaller sizes. Just as fast as a cam.
Oh, I climb mostly squamish granite
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ricardol
Jan 16, 2003, 8:19 PM
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I was belaying a buddy of mine practice aid yesterday, and he did a pink tricam placement in a place that was bomber -- no cam would have worked very well there due to the pocket being just wide enough for the tricam -- (the cam would have been wider) ..
i had never seen a tricam placement before, but now i'm sold on how important they are ..
.. the pocket was just wide enough for the pink tricam -- and just deep enough to get it all the way in .. i was probably a nit shallower than the 2nd knucle on your finger.. when loaded the tricam was not going anywhere (as well that it should be bomber since it was the 1st aid point!) ..
.. cleaning it was pretty easy too..
-- ricardo
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ricardol
Jan 16, 2003, 8:20 PM
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I was belaying a buddy of mine practice aid yesterday, and he did a pink tricam placement in a place that was bomber -- no cam would have worked very well there due to the pocket being just wide enough for the tricam -- (the cam would have been wider) ..
i had never seen a tricam placement before, but now i'm sold on how important they are ..
.. the pocket was just wide enough for the pink tricam -- and just deep enough to get it all the way in .. i was probably a nit shallower than the 2nd knucle on your finger.. when loaded the tricam was not going anywhere (as well that it should be bomber since it was the 1st aid point!) ..
.. cleaning it was pretty easy too..
-- ricardo
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climblouisiana
Jan 16, 2003, 8:21 PM
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I like tri-cams on pocketed routes such as those in the Superstition Mts. in Arizona. Tri-cams will fit in places that no other pro will.
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djmeat
Jan 16, 2003, 10:28 PM
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I'm sold
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climbingpride
Jan 17, 2003, 9:35 PM
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*buying some tonight
* had already been planning to for a few weeks.
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cedk
Jan 17, 2003, 10:39 PM
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Technique is as follows:
1) put tip of nut tool against tricam.\
2) Pound the hell out of other end of nut tool with #10 hex.
Oh wait that's only if you've taken a hard fall on it. If not just jiggle your nut tool around in the pocket a bit. Tap it back then pull it out.
[ This Message was edited by: cedk on 2003-01-17 14:48 ]
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