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contact strength
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arron


Jan 18, 2003, 11:38 AM
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Registered: Oct 12, 2002
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contact strength
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How do I get more contact strenght or power? I know the are fingerboard workouts but I was woundering if anyone had and specicial work out that they think is better for conatct strenght.


climbingjunky


Jan 18, 2003, 12:00 PM
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No special workout, just climb till you can't climb anymore. Boulder often to your max. In time you will get stronger. But more importantly, focus on your technique, footwork, flagging, crossovers, etc Traversing around the gym is a good way to build up strength as well as endurance.

[ This Message was edited by: indy on 2003-01-18 12:01 ]


moeman


Jan 18, 2003, 1:16 PM
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Campus board. Click link to see pic

http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos.php?Action=Show&PhotoID=2938


rprp


Jan 18, 2003, 1:56 PM
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For contact strength, try boulder problems with long moves to smaller slopers. Also try moves that have you drop down onto the hold. This will work if you don't get hurt (which is possible).


winkwinklambonini


Jan 18, 2003, 5:40 PM
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for trad, I don't think bouldering helps as much as other things, since endurence is so important. Leg strength in the calves for standing on small holds for long periods while placing gear, and thighs for high steps loaded down with gear. sometimes I can barely stand up since I tend to gravitate towards larger holds on trad when they're there.

long traverses in the gym or many routes....


gawd


Jan 19, 2003, 2:50 PM
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wink,

you are absolutly wrong about boldering not being good for trad climbing.

boldering teaches you to know and understand how your body works. it teaches and improves your balance and over consitioning levels.

endurance and strength only only second to technique. and technique is the key to harder climbs.

being effiecnt is how to build endurance.
traversing in the gym is the #2 way to over train.

contact training should be supplemented by grip strengh.

do open handed pull ups for contact stregth and do pull open using verticall orinentate wooden dowl. perferably one that is too large for your hands.



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