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timpanogos
Jan 19, 2003, 4:08 AM
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Registered: May 17, 2002
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Got to share. I’m standing on a ¼” bolt, the rivet head looking ones, with a spinner hanger that looks like a piece of sheet metal bent on a 90 with a hole in it. One just like it on the move below (nice 3/8 new bolt 3rd move down). I’m staring up at what is left of the next ¼ incher – It’s bend over on a 90 pointing straight down, no way a rivet hanger is going on it. This is the second one of this section of the ladder that is broken off.
So out comes the BD Chouinard type of hook and on it I go. Second rings are not going to make it, so up into the top most rings on the ruskies I go – and I reach up – 8” short of a bolt with no hanger or nut but a good ½” sticking out of the wall. Sh*t, top most ring, - on a hook, 2 major old beater clips below me – and we are talking one major bald 5.12 face – nothing to even think about doing a second hook move on. – Soooo, down climb I go, back to the 3rd set of rings to think about this for a minute – that was exciting!
Damn, I bought duck tape, but it’s home with the nailing gear. So I take a synching wire rivet hanger, clip it to my lead biner, grab a sling and tie the hanger and binner to my nut-cleaning tool – back up into those top most rings, and I’m talking pinching the very end of the nut-tool between thumb and index finder – and barely hook the bolt.
I take up the weight on the daisy and surprise myself with the echo that came back – boy did I let out a yee-haaawww – what a rush.
Finished up the climb, stayed hanging on the chains and did a hanging tag, rap, clean, 2:1 haul – and the exciting finish – my first pig ride back down. Yep I squealed.
Full blown first solo pitch – getting better – ONLY 5 hours!
Man am I psyched! What a blast.
Chad
[ This Message was edited by: timpanogos on 2003-01-18 20:09 ]
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krustyklimber
Jan 19, 2003, 5:02 AM
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Registered: Jan 25, 2002
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Chad,
I am sooooo glad to hear your having fun with all that gear!
It makes my second thoughts, about having sold it all to you, so much easier to take.
Which hook was it? You may be the first one to have used it, I'm scared silly of sharp hooks.
Jeff
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epic_ed
Jan 19, 2003, 5:24 AM
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Registered: Jun 17, 2002
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Nice job, Chad! I'll bet top stepping (or ringing) on a hook with those Russian jobies is a lot less soil-inducing than with regular aiders. I used a bat hook for the first time a couple of weeks ago and was shaking in my 3rd steps.
BTW - you've probably mentioned it before, but what solo device are you using? Grigri?
Ed
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timpanogos
Jan 19, 2003, 5:47 AM
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Registered: May 17, 2002
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Jeff,
It was the largest BD hook that you sold me. at first I had it sitting straight on a small ledge that had a bit of a crystal that the hook bit behind nicely, until a light bounce test smashed the crystal. I ended up setting it back deeper, in a tiny crack, but it was angled to the left a little - I'm surprised how well it help up (down climb and all).
Ed
I'm using the grigi - used the adjustable fifi for cleaning - it is very sweet (but need a "slipperier" 6mm.
I also found out about the grigri slack problem today - for any gumbies out there - it does not show up at the grigri - so beware (it was hanging on my clove hitch, holding a directional on my anchor at the first move - wayyyy down there - heavy rope hanging on the grigri gives the false comfort that all is well)! Note - take prusiks next time.
Chad
P.S.
I also bought the DMM locker that has the plastic do-hicky on it. Very smooth were the grigri lives, and holds good position of the grigri from your donut.
BTW, ruskies are definately cheating - I don't think I would have had the guts to get in the hero loops of my ladders and try that kludged cheater stick move. - no way.
[ This Message was edited by: timpanogos on 2003-01-18 21:52 ]
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passthepitonspete
Jan 19, 2003, 5:55 PM
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Registered: Oct 10, 2001
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Bwah-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha!!!
Now, imagine this same scenario after ten hook moves in a row!
[I have done this countless times - are your hands sweaty, yet? They should be - mine are!]
A few thoughts on your excellent post.
I predicted when Chad first arrived that this BWT would actually solo a big wall before the end of 2003. He told me he would, and I believed him. I think he "gets it," and even more importantly, he wants it.
You can quick-rig a cheat stick in any number of ways, limited only by your imagination, and unlimited by your desperation!
Two girth-hitched wired stoppers work well, especially when duct taped to the end of your hammer. [The only time I choose to cheat any more is when there is an obviously too-loose flake to hook, or when a rivet has pulled and needs replacing, but I can't be bothered.] Otherwise, I simply figure out what the last guy did.
Your 6mm cord should hopefully become more "slippery" with use - otherwise, get some different cord. When it's slippery enough, you will have to tie a slipknot in the free end or risk taking the ride.
As for the weight of the rope pulling slack through your Grigri, of course you need to bring long prusiks, though a less-optimal solution is a clove-hitch on a long sling.
I would be very interested in your thoughts about riding the pig. Please don't put your pig-riding comments here - instead put them in the Ask Dr. Piton ... about how to rappel with a very heavy load post. [This post is worth reading just to see Paul's hilarious photo of the squirrel! Bob Shaftoe's diagram is superb, too.]
However, this might be a great place to talk about your most desperate hook move.
You can click here if you want to read about mine - my hook duct-taped on the end of my hammer, and hooking a 1/4" rounded edge above a body-cleaving pinnacle!
Sheesh. Now my hands are sweating!
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