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cdb1386


Jan 21, 2003, 11:47 AM
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I've got a full set of HB offsets, but I'm looking to get my 2nd set of micro-nuts.

What should I get?

BD, HB, etc.???

Thanks


wigglestick


Jan 21, 2003, 11:54 AM
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What kind of routes are you planning on doing? You couldn't go wrong with buying another set of HB's. I wouldn't even consider doing anything harder than C2 on desert sandstone without at least 2 sets. But, for what it is worth, I also have a set of DMM Peenuts and BD micro stoppers. I think the DMM are superior to the BD design.


timpanogos


Jan 21, 2003, 12:18 PM
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Check out the Metolius set of bronze micro's (actually RP's I suppose on the smaller set)


pbjosh


Jan 21, 2003, 12:28 PM
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The BD swedges aren't bad but they're very similar to the HB's with a slightly less useful aspect ratio (more square on a top down view).

I second the recommendation for peenuts, they're pretty unique and pretty useful.

josh


cdb1386


Jan 21, 2003, 12:31 PM
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I'm looking at some C2s in Squamish and Utah in the next year.


flamer


Jan 21, 2003, 12:40 PM
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If those are the place's and the difficulty/type of routes you're looking at you will do yourself a favor by getting another set of HB's! Hope all goes well!
josh


timpanogos


Jan 21, 2003, 1:20 PM
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I took everyone's advice (see C2 clean aid rack thread) and got 2 sets of the Bronze HP's and one of the larger aluminum - they are sweeeeet.

Chad


bigwalling


Jan 21, 2003, 6:02 PM
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A set of HB brass off-sets + a few of the smaller RPs. It works for me.


copperhead


Jan 21, 2003, 7:02 PM
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Paste a head.

Oh wait, we were talking about micronuts.

HB.

The larger aluminum off-sets are super-useful too. I rarely use 'Stoppers' anymore.

You can tap on the nut with the pointed end of your hammer if the placement is way-flaring; don't wail on it so much that it becomes FIXED.


Clean schmean.


passthepitonspete


Jan 21, 2003, 8:02 PM
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Don't buy a #1 or #0 HB - too small! Better to paste. #3 really rocks, though.


copperhead


Jan 21, 2003, 8:09 PM
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Yeah. Pete is right. Those super-micros are prayer flags.

#1 heads can hold short falls...



epic_ed


Jan 21, 2003, 8:23 PM
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Hey I've used my prayer flags a few times! Of course, that's because we didn't have any heads, and actually, we wouldn't know what to do with heads if we had 'em. That's about to change, though. Hope to get a few soon and start pasting! ([edit] Scratch that. Just checked the mail and the heads arrived today! Happy pasting for me this weekend.)

You gotta admit that it's a hell of a lot faster to slot a small micro then it is to paste a head. Security may be a different issue.

As for the question at hand, I have doubles in the HB offset micros, a set of the BD micros, and a full set of RPs. I wasn't really looking to pick up any more small stoppers, but I found the RPs for a screamin' deal. Haven't used them yet, but I've been taking one set of the HBs and the RPs each time I've aided recently. I use the HBs a lot, and I'd say you can't go wrong with picking up a second set.

Ed


[ This Message was edited by: up2top on 2003-01-21 20:34 ]


bigwalling


Jan 21, 2003, 8:27 PM
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Those things are bomber. I carry 2 #0 offsets. They are just as strong as #1 and #2 stoppers. Which are bomber! Even if my cables are starting to break.


copperhead


Jan 21, 2003, 8:42 PM
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Yeah, and your definition of A1 is way bomber too, right?!!!!!



bigwalling


Jan 21, 2003, 8:58 PM
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Copperhead you aren't saying that a string of 10 #0 and #1 brass offsets isn't A1.

A #0 is rated at 2.5kN
A #1 is rated at 4.5kN

Those numbers are more than my weight so it's cool with me. I'd throw them into my belay. Can't wait to belay off copperheads! Now that will be a bomb.



timpanogos


Jan 21, 2003, 9:03 PM
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Hey, question, does pasting a head move from clean aid to nailing? Or are heads still considered clean aid?


bigwalling


Jan 21, 2003, 9:06 PM
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Chad, go paste a head and see what you think.

Heads are pure nailing at its finest. Well maybe not. It can really trash the rock. Most of the time heads are fixed on climbs real aid climbs that go clean. But remember that those heads might blow then you need to nail of figure something out.


copperhead


Jan 21, 2003, 9:18 PM
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Quote:
Heads are pure nailing at its finest.


Though I would like to agree, 'nailing' pertains to pitons and 'heading' pertains to the art of smashing malleable metal into the tightest of un-accepting seams.

Wall climbing:
An arena in which heavy metals can work peacefully in conjunction with light metals to achieve an irrelevant goal - the summit.


bigwalling


Jan 21, 2003, 9:27 PM
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C-head thats why I said "maybe not". I was sort of beign sarcastic about the whole thing about heads being "clean aid".

I love metal! What is copper? Is that still some kind of metal? Nailing is way more fun than clean aid. Holding that hammer is something truely amazing. And that sound of the drill bit breaking is something truely from hell.


copperhead


Jan 21, 2003, 10:38 PM
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Hell!!… wadaya know… I’m listening to “Heaven is Hell” by Accept, an 80’s Euro metal band. Damn, how coincidental!

Cool. Trickery. I’ve built belays where you have to rap off of 3 equalized heads, and other belays where you have to stand on thin heads and/or hooks just to connect the two 3/8” bolts at the belay… ha hah ha hah ha hah…

How `bout that 12-bat-hook-belay…

It is yet to be tested.


pbjosh


Jan 21, 2003, 10:48 PM
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Regarding HB offsets, I carry them for free climbs now at jtree in deference to stoppers most of the time. On Sierra, Tahquitz and Yosemite granite though I usually carry stoppers or both if I'm doubling up for free climbs.

In regards to cool belays my favorite ever line from a trip report was simply this (from a party on the LA Direct a few years back):

"Bring a camhook to supplement the belay at 12."

rad.

josh


timpanogos


Jan 21, 2003, 11:08 PM
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Ok, let me rephrase the question - I'm on what is considered a clean aid route (i.e. the 5.12 ladder I did the other day), which was first known (FA) as the Green Monster Aid Route. The route is occasionally climbed free. So I come upon a missing bolt – is it ethical for me to place a head on this route? If I do, should I leave it or clean it?

Chad


copperhead


Jan 21, 2003, 11:43 PM
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If the route now goes clean, and more importantly FREE, it is best to not use your hammer to place gear. Fixed heads may hinder free ascents. If necessary, use a cheater stick to bypass blank sections as I do believe that this is part of ‘clean’ aid climbing.


timpanogos


Jan 22, 2003, 12:09 AM
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Dang, I was dieing to pick up that hammer and try a head. Well, back to focus on clean for awhile - I'll leave my heads at home


copperhead


Jan 22, 2003, 12:19 AM
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Naah!!! Just find a micro-splitter that no one can free climb. Remember, the un-free-climbable is the realm of the aid climber. Paste away!

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