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binerbaby
Sep 11, 2001, 2:16 AM
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Sorry, I totally disagree with redpointadventures editorial on the book. The rating changes are long overdue & I congratulate Rob on the excellent effort. Mad Dog is about at my limit, I can do it, but that's about as hard as I have ever climbed - it's a Carderock 5.10, but is comparable to a 5.10b - d at Seneca or 5.11a - b at Yosemite. And that's assuming Yosemite clear, dry conditions here in DC. Otherwise, add yet another grade!
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redpointadventures
Sep 12, 2001, 6:18 PM
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Carderock has contrived routes that rely heavily on technical climbing and hand strength. This type of climbing can be frustrating to gym climbers and climbers from other areas, especially those areas that enjoy greater friction.
I chose Mad Dog as an example of how the ratings were changed because it is what I consider to be one of Carderock’s classic 5.10 climbs. When I first met you and Melanie, I was working on redpointing Mad Dog. It took me most of that summer to get it and I couldn't flash it till the cooler weather in Fall.
WARNING. It takes a certain kind of sickness to enjoy this type of climbing. Frustration with the technical and sequential nature of this type of rock may make you frothy at the mouth. Cursing will occur in short bark like outbursts.
Carderock has a rich tradition of technical climbing. Many of the climbers who climbed here and rated the routes and those that followed in the 60’s and 70’s went on to climb other areas like Seneca, the New, and the Gunks and brought with them the skills they developed and their sense of the rating system. Look at the names of first asencionists of the old Carderock on routes all over the east coast. Sandbagging is a part of the soul of East Coast climbing.
I’m sure that Rob’s sense of humor will withstand the ribbing he will recieve from changing the old ratings and hope that his book will be successful.
I propose a ratings climb challlange of all the hard tens friday Sept. 21 at Carderock and will buy a beer for the ones that redpoint.
Look forward to seeing you and the new baby at the rock.
For more on Rob's book:
http://www.carderockbigwall.com
[ This Message was edited by: redpointadventures on 2001-09-18 12:05 ]
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binerbaby
Sep 30, 2001, 2:41 PM
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you're reply indicates that you think the climb was indeed harder than 5.10. So, I assume you agree with me.
Sorry I am off from climbing for the rest of the season as I stupidly broke my ankle last weds rushing down to climb cripples. ironic, huh? I was finally starting to climb hard again, too.
Also, I want to respond to your warning about carderock's slickness - I like it. It's always challenging which is what I love about climbing - not making the ascent as much as learning something new from trying to make the ascent.
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redpointadventures
Oct 2, 2001, 4:29 PM
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Hey Stacy,
Sorry to hear about your ankle. Get well soon.
By the way, no one showed for the 5.10 vs. 5.11 ratings climb competition.
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stardust44
Nov 4, 2001, 3:14 AM
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I was wondering if u guys think that the climbs' rating should be reevaluated @ Carderock b/c they are very polished from so much use. Just curious! or do u think this just happens and should not effect the ratings?
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compclimber
Nov 4, 2001, 3:54 AM
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Stardust I think it really matters, I boulder at Morrison all the time and it is a very used area. The holds are all polished and it is quite hard to get your feet to stick thus making the problems harder. When I leave the area for the night I usually try to wet the holds down a little and scrub them with a brush. So in responce to your question YES I think that polishing makes routes harder.
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rjbonz
Nov 27, 2001, 12:38 AM
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Wow, I'm popular.
This is so cool.
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talons05
Nov 27, 2001, 12:48 AM
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It's impossible to have ratings standardized. It would be nice if one person would go and climb every single graded climb in the world. Then he could compare them all, and rate them accordingly. Unfortunately, what we have is people who have climbed a finite number of routes, and they must base their ratings on that. There is no checklist or cut-sheet for grading climbs - that would be impossible.
AW
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