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atg200
Nov 27, 2001, 4:40 AM
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Registered: Jul 27, 2001
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Howdy,
Anybody have recommendations for desert towers(preferably near Moab) that have possible bomber anchors at ground level?
I want to do some rope soloing since I can't find a steady partner for the desert, but so many towers don't have decent anchors for the first pitch(for instance the Colorado NE Ridge of the Kingfisher is just dirt and bad bolts off the deck-no good). Also no hard or sustained free climbing.
Here are the ones I can think of off the top of my head:
1. The Hindu, Onion Creek - Maverick 5.9 A2. You can work out a belay with some big cams and lots of stoppers since the base rock is excellent. The free is short and you can yard on gear if you need to.
2. Tower of Babel, Arches - Zenyatta Entrada 5.4 A2+. There is a giant block you could sling with a static line at the base.
Thanks,
Andrew
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benjo
Nov 27, 2001, 5:21 PM
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Registered: Sep 28, 2001
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Zenyatta Entrada on the Tower of Babel is a really good route to solo. Especially because of the short approach.
The first pitch of the Colorado NE ridge is a bolt ladder. Just make your anchor the bolt ladder by using the bottom bolt as your first anchor and then tying off the next however many bolts you want to with clove hitches. That route is a good solo. Straight up, fun aid and two fun 5.8 pitches.
Other routes I can think of- Brer Rabbit has a good crack for an anchor about 5 feet off the ground. The Sundevil Chimney has a good anchor off the ground, and is an awesome route. I'll try to think of some more and write later.
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crackwhore
Nov 27, 2001, 7:43 PM
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Registered: Nov 19, 2001
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are you just interested in aid routes?
i have rope soloed most of the routes in the castleton group, jah man ,and the bridger jack group. most of these have acceptable anchors. sometimes you may have to climb a bit to get good gear but so far it hasn't been a problem.
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atg200
Nov 27, 2001, 8:09 PM
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Hi,
Yeah, just looking for aid routes. 5.9 is not easy for me, and i don't like rope soloing at my limit. Preferably free no harder than 5.8
andrew
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addiroids
Nov 28, 2001, 4:51 AM
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Registered: Oct 11, 2001
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"2. Tower of Babel, Arches - Zenyatta Entrada 5.4 A2+."
5.4 A-whatever. Now that's my kind of aid route!! Any FA I put up on aid will have no free climbing over 3rd class.
Addiroids
"You know you are a shitty climber when...You put up a new route and rate it 5.2 A0."
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theooze
Nov 28, 2001, 3:18 PM
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Registered: Feb 18, 2003
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Hey, man, that's me you're talking about. Well, ok, I am a shitty climber. And I'm all over the 5.4 A whatevers too. with easy approaches.
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atg200
Nov 28, 2001, 5:57 PM
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Registered: Jul 27, 2001
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Heavy Duty put up a 5.3d A3+ in the Mystery Towers - get on it. Of course, you should meet him first and then you will have a better understanding of the rating...
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